Old 028 WB difficulties

[JoeMay]

After consulting with the owner of the saw, a new Stihl ignition module 0000 400 1300 was purchased. FYI the price of that module was $79.11 pre tax from a local Stihl dealer. The new module is bare bones see photo. No connection instructions. The IPL for an 029 that uses this module shows a wiring harness (see diagram), which this old 028 never had. The kill switch wire (orange highlighted) can be reused and I can make that separate ground wire (red highlighted). I can make the blue highlighted spaghetti too. However I don't know where I would connect that open ended spade socket (see blue ?). I'd appreciate info on where to connect that open ended spade socket. Is it even needed for this cross fit onto this old 028, which had a points-condenser ignition? A photo or diagram would really help sort out the open ended spade socket puzzler. The last photo shows this existing odd connection on this 028 that seems to be linking the handle section to the main chassis. Will that connection need to remain as is? Might that open ended spade socket need to connect to it someway somehow?

 

[HarleyT]

The spade terminal connects to the wire that goes to the plastic control by the carb, and must be insulated, when that touches "ground", the saw shuts down. The other wires are for grounding, as the av mounts interfere with that.

 

[HarleyT]

The harness for the 029/290 should be ignored, as most of that saw is plastic. You just need the wire from the main terminal to the plastic throttle control, and the one you showed grounding the rear handle to the crankcase.

 

[JoeMay]

Thank you. That’s what I thought and went with. Just the kill switch wire to which I have added an insulated spade to connect to the new coil and that short connection up high between the handle and the chassis. Didn’t do anything with that one. Loose bolted the new coil and allowed the magnet to pinch business card to set the the air gap. Tightened the mounting bolts. Test for spark and got failure. I thought it would be plug n play. That’s why I started looking at that harness.

 

[HarleyT]

How are you testing for spark. Spinning with a drill is seldom fast enough.

 

[HarleyT]

Leave nothing connected to the spade terminal when testing also.

 

[JoeMay]

Have been using a drill. That worked when the points-condenser were still in and when fooling around with the chips. But I will take your advise now and eliminate the on-off switch (disconnect from coil terminal) for spark testing. Will also 2x check everything that could contribute to a false test outcome. Thanks again HarleyT.

 

[Jasonrkba]

That coil absolutely works when installed correctly. I've done it to one of my own.

 

[JoeMay]

Thank you. That’s good to know. Doesn’t surprise me that it does work. Just gotta stay the course now to solve this puzzle.

 

[HarleyT]

And put the pull starter on?

 

[JoeMay]

Will do.

 

[JoeMay]

Didn’t bother checking for spark. Felt confident enough to go for it. It started on the 4th pull. I had cleaned the magnet surface with electrical contact cleaner. Had initially used the old coil’s plug lead on the new coil. Too lazy and hurried to cut that new coil’s lead to length and fight getting that plug contact pigtail and boot onto the cut lead. Being lazy and in a hurry rarely produces good results. I should know better by now at 67. I’ll do basic tuning tomorrow. In wood this weekend. Thanks to all for the great advice and sharing of knowledge.