Oregon bpx embarasses my 346!!

[minnnt]

I have been on with some site clearup which has involved a few tree's having to come down and hedge reduction and clearing etc. I have been using some Stihl RS chain with pretty good results. Got to some dirty wood so decided to swap out to Oregon 21 (think it was bpx) which had just been freshly sharpened and it turned my 346 into a complete dog!! The chain was smoking and wouldn't cut anything like what the RS would. Tried it on a 15" sycamore and it was truly embarassing!! The saw was so hot and the bar and chain were too. Chain was throwing off so much smoke that it seemed like it was on fire! It did nothing but stall the chain even when atempting to let it cut under its own weight, i.e. no pressure at all. Checked the oiler on the saw and it seems clear, checked the oil filter which was clear also. Also cleaned all the bar and checked that the oil holes were clear and i greased the sprocket nose and clutch drum. Running Oregon LPX on the 044 and ran it on my old 357 too and it seems ok. Might treat the 44 to some Stihl chain...

 

[mtngun]

Please post a close-up pic of the offending chain, with a side view.

I believe BPX is safety chain. You wouldn't expect it to cut particularly fast, but if it's just smoking, it's probably sharpened wrong.

 

[minnnt]

Please post a close-up pic of the offending chain, with a side view.

I believe BPX is safety chain. You wouldn't expect it to cut particularly fast, but if it's just smoking, it's probably sharpened wrong.

Will get one on Monday for you. Don't see how sharpening could be the reason as I sharpen all my other chains and non of them have this problem... :msp_unsure:

 

[wigglesworth]

21 BPX is .058 gauge. Is your bar .058 or .050?

 

[dingeryote]

BPX is about 20% slower than LPX or RSC, but it should still cut fine and NOT throw powder and smoke the chain/bar.

I used to run it now and then when I could find it, and it wasn't bad for cutting dirty crap. Just slow like all Semi-chisel, and went dull a good bit faster than Stihl RMC.

Check your Rakers.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[minnnt]

21 BPX is .058 gauge. Is your bar .058 or .050?

0.58 guage. The rakers have been filed exactly the same as all my others. I always do it even if i take nothing off i still do them. I noticed the chain felt a bit 'loose' when being handled off the saw compared to the Stihl, as if some of the links weren't quite right? The chain isn't that old, and has probably been sharpened 3 or 4 times if that. Maybe the rails have widened a bit and i need the 0.63 guage chain now? Although both are the same guage chain the Stihl chain is a bit fatter as my sharpening guide won't fit it but it fits the Oregon one and the original Husqvarna chain (long gone) fine. Both 0.325, both 1.5mm and both 64dl.

 

[mtngun]

I noticed the chain felt a bit 'loose'

If it's hot enough to smoke, that can "loosen" the chain and wear out the bar quickly.

The rakers have been filed exactly the same as all my others.

Maybe, without pics, I can't comment.

 

[SawTroll]

BPX is about 20% slower than LPX or RSC, but it should still cut fine and NOT throw powder and smoke the chain/bar.

I used to run it now and then when I could find it, and it wasn't bad for cutting dirty crap. Just slow like all Semi-chisel, and went dull a good bit faster than Stihl RMC.

Check your Rakers.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

:agree2: with most of that, but the sympthoms are consistant with a dull chain, and not much else.

 

[dingeryote]

Troll I would agree, but the Gent stated he had filed the chain the same as before.

If that is the case, it's rakers.

But there is always the chance the guide used is inappropriate for the SC BP, and the file is too high on the tooth, as what happens with the Husky guide on Carlton.

Pics would help a LOT!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[mtngun]

If that is the case, it's rakers.

But there is always the chance the guide used is inappropriate for the SC BP, and the file is too high on the tooth, as what happens with the Husky guide on Carlton.

Pics would help a LOT!!

:agree2:

I've experienced similar issues with used safety chain that had been sharpened (by someone else). My solution was to toss the safety chain. :msp_laugh:

 

[SawTroll]

:agree2:

I've experienced similar issues with used safety chain that had been sharpened (by someone else). My solution was to toss the safety chain. :msp_laugh:

BPX isn't "safety" chain. The small ramps have nothing to do with this issue!

 

[minnnt]

Teeth and rakers both filed with correct Oregon file kit. Rakers re profiled too. I don't mean the chain was loose on the bar, there seemed to be more movement in the chain off the bar, i.e looser rivets? As if they were worn and ready for the bin.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Tough without pics

If the rakers are right, it almost sounds like you got too far down in the gullet with the file and didn't get a clean, sharp top edge and piercing point. Also possible the angles were off just enough and there wasn't enough material left to support and keep the piercing point from rolling under.

Take Care

 

[CGC4200]

Maybe a different file

I looked up 21BP, calls for 3/16 file (.325 chain). I have a couple of 11/64 files
for chain that has been sharpened a few times. I use an Oregon .325 hand held
file holder for .325 chain, different holder & file sizes for 3/8 LP & 3/8.

 

[Brushwacker]

My guess is the chain hit rock or cement sometime. That usually ruins the shape of the cutters pretty far back and it is difficult to get them to cut decent after wards. It might not be that noticable but your missing metal that was ground off from the hit if thats the case.
In front of the bar tip bumper links don't do much other then take up a bit of chip clearence which would affect it some in large cuts. When your bar nose is cutting, at that point in the nose area the bumper links extend higher then the drags preventing the chain from biting its normal depth, restricting your cutting in that area which is the high kickback area on top of the bar nose. Keep the bar nose out of the wood and the chain should cut similiar to non safety chain. Pretty much no boring and poor performance when the tip is getting in the wood though which doesn't work well for serious cutters. Everybody that uses a chainsaw should understand kickback which is shown in your manuals.

 

[The Count]

to me something doesn`t look right;
as if there is a difference between what you think of the chain and what the chain actually is/does.
but what do I know ?

 

[Sagetown]

minnnt ~ Got to some dirty wood so decided to swap out to Oregon 21

That wood must have been pretty dirty to stop and change the chain. Looks like he knocked the edge off that chain right at the start.

 

[minnnt]

to me something doesn`t look right;
as if there is a difference between what you think of the chain and what the chain actually is/does.
but what do I know ?

Don't understand what you mean count? I will get some pictures of the offending chain on Monday when I am back at work. I sharpen my other chains exactly the same and never encounter this problem. Maybe I will sharpen it back quite a bit to try and get it right. I'm using 3/16" files. Also Oregon.

 

[minnnt]

The wood wasn't particularly dirty, just a bit rough, hence why I didn't fancy using the RS.

Thanks for the replies guys...

 

[dave k]

I suspect that you have hit stone or the like and although you have sharpened the chain and it looks ok in fact the temper of the cutters have been changed and you can sharpen all you want but it won't make any difference. Glass is the worst it will super heat the cutters in a moment. I don't mind nails etc but the wrong stone or glass and the chain is done for ! Even starting again with a flat file on the cutter has a limited effect.
A great thread was started by Bobl about how to see if you had a sharp chain and looking for glint on a chain etc.