Oregon File Guide Users Here

[woodchopper]

I bought a Oregon File Guide from Bailey's because my eye sight has gone downhill quite a bit in the last few years. I figured it'd be good to put on a good edge after hand filing three of four times.
Today I tried to mount the unit onto the bar for the first time and ran into a little problem. When I try to tighten it on with the guide over the chain rivets per the instructions the chain won't move and when it does the whole unit moves deeper onto the bar.
After checking old post here I kind of wonder if I should've bought the Granburg model instead. Looks like there isn't any plastic parts to wear out and the part that rides on the chain looks beefier.
Can anyone here tell me what stupid thing I am doing wrong? I'm sure it's something simple. Thanks.

 

[ASEMASTER]

I have the craftsman version of it and you just need to loosen up on the side adjustment of the chain supports, there is only one finger bolt that holds it to the bar ,the other finger bolt is to loosen the chain support to move th chain. hope this helps.
I to which that I got the ganberg as the craftsman is all plastic.

 

[woodchopper]

ASEMASTER, thanks for your reply. Mine is the same way...kinda. You have to tighten up a screw on one side before you can tighten the thumb screw to position the chain in the middle. That doesn't appear to be what is giving me a problem.

 

[turnkey4099]

I have the Oregon one. Got it used so I don't know what the instructions are.

My procedure:

Adjust so the two "strap bars" are right on the rivet line (leave the screws loose). Tighten, and it does need to be tight, the single screw down on the left side. Tighten right side 'strap' screw until you just see the chain being pushed to the side. Tighten the left side 'strap' screw to snug up the chain.

To advance chaine, loosen slightly the left side screw then retighten. Or adjust the left side screw so you can move the chain with some resistance to advance a tooth and leave it set at that.

Tip: If you are pushing the jig down while filing, you are using way to much pressure against the tooth while filling - I madethat mistake for years.

I find on mine that changing the setup from left to right (or the other way) requires also re-setting the file depth.
Harry K

 

[woodchopper]

To advance chaine, loosen slightly the left side screw then retighten. Or adjust the left side screw so you can move the chain with some resistance to advance a tooth and leave it set at that.
Harry K

Thanks Harry !! I wasn't aware you had to loosen that screw for every tooth because I've only seen other brands of file guides in action that you didn't need to do that. Had I known this one had to be worked that way I would have used the $20+ towards an electric one.

 

[KMB]

I have the craftsman version of it and you just need to loosen up on the side adjustment of the chain supports, there is only one finger bolt that holds it to the bar ,the other finger bolt is to loosen the chain support to move th chain. hope this helps.
I to which that I got the ganberg as the craftsman is all plastic.

:agree2::agree2: I have the Oregon version.

I have started to try using the file freehand and I'm getting better. But when I get lazy, I go back to the guide.

Kevin

 

[tdi-rick]

<snip>

I find on mine that changing the setup from left to right (or the other way) requires also re-setting the file depth.
Harry K

Ahh, you're not alone then.

 

[turnkey4099]

Thanks Harry !! I wasn't aware you had to loosen that screw for every tooth because I've only seen other brands of file guides in action that you didn't need to do that. Had I known this one had to be worked that way I would have used the $20+ towards an electric one.

It isn't really necessary. With a sharp file, you can run it loose enough to pull the chain through. Even if you have to loosen it, it becomes an automatic move - takes almost no time at all.

Harry K

 

[Nosmo]

Side Clamps

I have the Oregon version too. I normally use a file and guide 3 or 4 times and the next time the chain needs sharpening I clamp on the Oregon to keep the chain as near perfect as possible.

I keep those side of the chain clamps just loose enough to be able to lift the stop and pull the chain to the next tooth while sharpening.

Nosmo

 

[TraditionalTool]

Most of those guides are just crutches...learn to free hand sharpen, even if you decide you do like using one of those contraptions.

IMO, it's like using training wheels.

If your eyesight has gone downhill, get some magnification, that guide doesn't help your eyesight does it? Not trying to dis you, just sayin', magnification is a simple solution for poor eyesight, I know, I use it...

I use the optivisor with 2.5x magnification.

Cheers,
TT

 

[fredmc]

I have a granberg and have been using it for years with great results. I freehand in the bush and use the granberg to straighten everything up. Using a 13/64 file helps.

 

[woodchopper]

It isn't really necessary. With a sharp file, you can run it loose enough to pull the chain through. Even if you have to loosen it, it becomes an automatic move - takes almost no time at all.

Harry K

I have the Oregon version too. I normally use a file and guide 3 or 4 times and the next time the chain needs sharpening I clamp on the Oregon to keep the chain as near perfect as possible.

I keep those side of the chain clamps just loose enough to be able to lift the stop and pull the chain to the next tooth while sharpening.

Nosmo

After reading what you and turnkey4099 say I wonder if I'm tightening those hand screws too tight. I'll try using it with them looser.

Most of those guides are just crutches...learn to free hand sharpen, even if you decide you do like using one of those contraptions.

IMO, it's like using training wheels.

If your eyesight has gone downhill, get some magnification, that guide doesn't help your eyesight does it? Not trying to dis you, just sayin', magnification is a simple solution for poor eyesight, I know, I use it...

I use the optivisor with 2.5x magnification.

Cheers,
TT

I do hand file for three or four times in the field. I just wanted this file guide to correct and human error of my sharpening. I do a pretty good job by hand but nobody's perfect.