Crow Horse
ArboristSite Operative
Oregon 23736A Professional Chain Saw Bar-Mount Filing Guide or Granburg File N Joint? Is one better than the other?
Oregon ZPro Guide or Granburg File N Joint ??
- Thread starter Crow Horse
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I can only speak for the Granburg. I tried to use it, but found it cumbersome and difficult to get set up properly. Never did get it set quite right. I'm sure there's something I was doing wrong, but got tired of messing with it. I now use a File-0-Plate. Haven't messed with the Granburg since.
Crow Horse
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks.... I've read that the instructions are vague as well as conflicting. Would you be interested in selling the Granberg?
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have the Oregon/Precision/Tecomec filing guide (although I haven't used it for years) and found that I couldn't get it to replicate the same depth/hook when changing sides so had to re-adjust for L and R cutters.
I always put it down to me setting it up a little off, but quite a few others on AS have mentioned the same issue over the years, so something must be amiss in the basic guide.
I just use a FOP most of the time these days too.
I always put it down to me setting it up a little off, but quite a few others on AS have mentioned the same issue over the years, so something must be amiss in the basic guide.
I just use a FOP most of the time these days too.
I've got the Granburg and really like it. I use it to make milling chains (resharpen to 10 degrees) and use it for every 10 or 15 sharpenings to make sure I'm still on the right angle. I normally do a quick touch up with a file with every fuel fill. I've also used a FOP, accurate but slow for me. I would probably get faster with practice. The FOP will also work with most chains.
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mainly Carlton or Windsor, but do have a few loops of Stihl and it gets the job done without being an ideal fit.
The Baileys web site lists compatable chains for the FOP, so I have just used my FOP on those chains. I think they will work on the other chains (Oregon, Stihl), but not an exact fit.
gemniii
Addicted to ArboristSite
Even more important the http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200&catID=9958 now has a neat little video of setting up the Granberg - which I find extremely useful.
Once you get used to setting it up it's simple and repetitive. Too bad it's made out of cheap metal.
bcsizemo
ArboristSite Member
I just picked up the Granberg and haven't tested it out yet, but I have a reoccurring problem sharpening by hand (I was hoping it would help):
I've gotten good at getting the cutters sharp, but the bar wants to turn in the cut, or pull if you will. So if I'm cutting something over like 8 inches it will pull to one side (usually the same side no matter, different chains I've sharpened). What am I doing wrong (note, this is being done freehand)?
I've gotten good at getting the cutters sharp, but the bar wants to turn in the cut, or pull if you will. So if I'm cutting something over like 8 inches it will pull to one side (usually the same side no matter, different chains I've sharpened). What am I doing wrong (note, this is being done freehand)?
gemniii
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is your bar bent?
Have you closely checked out the cutters under magnification?
Are they mirror images?
Are the cutters the same length?
You could be removing more off one side than the other due to pressure/strength of one hand versus the other.
Look at:
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_cut_pull.htm
Have you closely checked out the cutters under magnification?
Are they mirror images?
Are the cutters the same length?
You could be removing more off one side than the other due to pressure/strength of one hand versus the other.
Look at:
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_cut_pull.htm
bcsizemo
ArboristSite Member
The bars not bent, I've had this happen on two different saws starting out with new chain on each (which cuts fine when it's new, only once I free hand sharpened it does it pull.)
I think your right that I'm probably taking off more on one side than the other...
Hence why I got the Granburg...
I think your right that I'm probably taking off more on one side than the other...
Hence why I got the Granburg...
Chris Crouse
ArboristSite Operative
I use a Granberg and get great results. It is not fast, though. If you are careless or cutting dirty wood and need to sharpen a lot then it will be time consuming.
I recommend lubing the slide rod with anti-seize to minimize wear of the bushings. Plus anti-seize always means filthy hands so you can be sure you'll look like you've been doing something other than picking your nose.
I recommend lubing the slide rod with anti-seize to minimize wear of the bushings. Plus anti-seize always means filthy hands so you can be sure you'll look like you've been doing something other than picking your nose.
Hillbilly Rick
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for this thread and especially the granberg video link.
The guy I got my 460 from gave me the granberg guide but said he couldn't figger out how to use it.
The guy I got my 460 from gave me the granberg guide but said he couldn't figger out how to use it.
Hillbilly Rick
ArboristSite Operative
I've always sharpened by hand,apparently wrong, but it always worked for a few sharpenings. The guide really helped keep the file at the right angles. The first set up took the longest but after that it was quick and easy.
Again thanks for the video and advice,
Rick
Again thanks for the video and advice,
Rick
gemniii
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good old thread.
I've a Grandberg.
Cons - Cheap metal, not easy to really tighten the side angle screw because the top plate screw is in the way.
Some "slop" in it.
Pro's - Easy to set up, easy to use, WORKS
GREAT tool overall.
I mill. I sharpen. After about 30 sq ft of wood I "touch up" with a file and freehand. After three "touch ups" I use the Grandberg. After 3 "Grandbergs" I go to my NT grinder just to make sure all is accurate.
I've found that even using the Grandberg I put slightly more pressure on one side and the cutters were slightly shorter.
I've a Grandberg.
Cons - Cheap metal, not easy to really tighten the side angle screw because the top plate screw is in the way.
Some "slop" in it.
Pro's - Easy to set up, easy to use, WORKS
GREAT tool overall.
I mill. I sharpen. After about 30 sq ft of wood I "touch up" with a file and freehand. After three "touch ups" I use the Grandberg. After 3 "Grandbergs" I go to my NT grinder just to make sure all is accurate.
I've found that even using the Grandberg I put slightly more pressure on one side and the cutters were slightly shorter.
SDB777
I find unique timber and cut it up
To say my sharpening skills are poor would be an understatement!
Just ordered a Granburg File N Joint yesterday, should be here by this weekend, and maybe I can get that chain cutting right! Time will tell!!!!!
Scott (Baileys rocks) B
Just ordered a Granburg File N Joint yesterday, should be here by this weekend, and maybe I can get that chain cutting right! Time will tell!!!!!
Scott (Baileys rocks) B
I bought a Granberg after reading this and it seemed stiff and hard to use, I remembered your suggestion and spotted a can of Hornady One Shot lube on my reloading bench. It works very good and is clean. I figured if it won't hurt my rifle brass it can't be bad for a chain sharpener.
