OWB, Yours and why

[Scrapiron]

Taylor T-750

Have one year under my belt, did a great job. This site was beneficial to getting the most out of the unit.

Just changed out the water yesterday- after 3 years it was still darn clean. Added more chemicals and pumped it back in. The anode rod was at 0%, added a new one, a new gasket, topped it off and we're good for 2 more years.

I did purchase a new thermometer and put some new PEX tubing on my hot water line (it had four connectors in about 3 ft.. I guess for leaks).

All in all, took about 2.5 hours. Not too bad for a 8 year old unit.. expecting to get a lot more years out of it.

 

[SMTM]

Going on five years with my Aqua Therm model 145. Burn times are around 8 hours if the temp stays in the 15-30 degree range. If I were to do it again I would go with the next larger size but at the time the price was right $2,800 and money was tight

Heating a 2300 sf house and a 1000 sf shop I go through about 10 cords a year but my propane bill has dropped from 1500 gallons to around 400

 

[giXXer]

Hawken HE2100. Absolutely love it. The buying experience was absolutely horrible, though. The local dealer is a joke. Makes all kinds of promises he can't keep and has no intentions of keeping. Once Hawken knew about the problem they handled it immediately and continue to call to make sure I am happy with my unit.

Windthrown added a very critical point for OWB's. Stay away from any boiler with stainless in it. A majority of the stainless used for boilers is junk metal and they don't transfer the heat efficiently.

Addressing a couple of the gripes: 1) You will freeze your a$$ off. It's an OWD, first word, outdoor. If you don't like the outdoors, have a propane tank dropped and call it good. Locations that require heat in the winter are cold! However, people buy them because they ARE outside. No insects, dirt, tracking mud in, wood mess, smoke or any of the other undesirables in your home. Garage you say? My garage is often neater and cleaner than the house, I don't want the wood floating around my most valuable possessions. I really like keeping the mess 100'+ from the house. 2) Wood consumption. They do consume a healthy amount of wood. If someone tells you they heat all winter on 6-8 face cords they are either lying or living in Hawaii. I burn almost 8 cords (about 24 face cords) throughout the year in northern Mi (Sept-June) heating all domestic hot water, including running taco pumps to get instant hot water at the other end of the house, the garage, workshop, and 2,000 sq/ft living space (71-72 degrees F). You just have to cut more wood to enjoy the added benefits, small price to pay IMO. 3) Very slow to warm up. My boiler has approx 400 gallons of water to heat to 180 degrees so it takes some time not making an OWB a good fit for a lot of uses including cabins and occasional use homes. 4) Price. Quite pricey with everything necessary to get them up and running, but you get what you pay for. If propane is your other fuel source option it only takes a few years "pay off" the investment. 5) Air pollution/smoke. Somewhat true depending on the type of wood you are burning and the type of boiler. Most companies now make "smokeless" or low smoke chimney's and, of course, recommend you not use them in close proximity to other homes.

I have found mine to be a lot of work, but extremely rewarding. My only regret is not buying one years ago. I bought the Hawken because they are quite prevalent in my area and have a lot of satisfied users. I have found the central boilers to be used with the same satisfaction and durability as my unit. I'm somewhat familiar with the other brands mentioned here, but do not have any real world experience with them. Good luck!

 

[kalib stock]

Hawken HE2100. Absolutely love it. The buying experience was absolutely horrible, though. The local dealer is a joke. Makes all kinds of promises he can't keep and has no intentions of keeping. Once Hawken knew about the problem they handled it immediately and continue to call to make sure I am happy with my unit.

Windthrown added a very critical point for OWB's. Stay away from any boiler with stainless in it. A majority of the stainless used for boilers is junk metal and they don't transfer the heat efficiently.

Addressing a couple of the gripes: 1) You will freeze your a$$ off. It's an OWD, first word, outdoor. If you don't like the outdoors, have a propane tank dropped and call it good. Locations that require heat in the winter are cold! However, people buy them because they ARE outside. No insects, dirt, tracking mud in, wood mess, smoke or any of the other undesirables in your home. Garage you say? My garage is often neater and cleaner than the house, I don't want the wood floating around my most valuable possessions. I really like keeping the mess 100'+ from the house. 2) Wood consumption. They do consume a healthy amount of wood. If someone tells you they heat all winter on 6-8 face cords they are either lying or living in Hawaii. I burn almost 8 cords (about 24 face cords) throughout the year in northern Mi (Sept-June) heating all domestic hot water, including running taco pumps to get instant hot water at the other end of the house, the garage, workshop, and 2,000 sq/ft living space (71-72 degrees F). You just have to cut more wood to enjoy the added benefits, small price to pay IMO. 3) Very slow to warm up. My boiler has approx 400 gallons of water to heat to 180 degrees so it takes some time not making an OWB a good fit for a lot of uses including cabins and occasional use homes. 4) Price. Quite pricey with everything necessary to get them up and running, but you get what you pay for. If propane is your other fuel source option it only takes a few years "pay off" the investment. 5) Air pollution/smoke. Somewhat true depending on the type of wood you are burning and the type of boiler. Most companies now make "smokeless" or low smoke chimney's and, of course, recommend you not use them in close proximity to other homes.

I have found mine to be a lot of work, but extremely rewarding. My only regret is not buying one years ago. I bought the Hawken because they are quite prevalent in my area and have a lot of satisfied users. I have found the central boilers to be used with the same satisfaction and durability as my unit. I'm somewhat familiar with the other brands mentioned here, but do not have any real world experience with them. Good luck!

Make sure that the owb is UL listed, your house insurance should go down if you switch from a indoor woodstove to an owb! Hawkens a not listed. Something to think about before buying! :monkey:

 

[danzig]

Royall indoor/outdoor wood/coal boilers and Furnaces

Royall make a true boiler!! These units are pressurized and do not rust out. These units are ASME stamped. You choose indoor or outdoor both come with a 20 yr warranty. Burn wood or coal with ease. Units come with forced draft with quick response. email me guys if you have questions. I love mine.

 

[urhstry]

I have the Shaver 250 Coal/Wood and I am very happy with it. Shaver had their problems with shipping and PR but they seemed to have that worked out for now. Very sturdy unit!

 

[kalib stock]

Royall make a true boiler!! These units are pressurized and do not rust out. These units are ASME stamped. You choose indoor or outdoor both come with a 20 yr warranty. Burn wood or coal with ease. Units come with forced draft with quick response. email me guys if you have questions. I love mine.

Yeah, if you go with a pressurized unit then you have to worry about regulations, and the thing over heating and exploding!!! Just my advice

 

[John D]

Yeah, if you go with a pressurized unit then you have to worry about regulations, and the thing over heating and exploding!!! Just my advice

Why would you need to worry anymore than with your current indoor boiler?If the pressurized outdoor unit has an adequete pressure relief system designed for the worst case overheating,this is not even an issue.If its stamped approved for use,i wouldnt worry about it.IMO,the problem with pressurized systems that tie directly into your indoor system is the huge amounts of water mean a very larger expansion tank system to maintain 18-30psi.

 

[danzig]

Royall boilers

Pressurized boilers are very safe. Non pressurized boilers have very little safety certifications (UL, CSA,). True Pressure vessels have to be built to (code) ASME welding, National Boiler, Hartford Boiler inspections, etc building inspector's look for these items. They cost more but are safe if installed properly (plumbed correctly) They last long and preform well. As long as you have your pressure relief valve and expansion tank sized correctly you will not have any problems period.

As far as exploding your hot water tank has just as high risk (if not higher risk of exploding) if you valve is bad. How many of you check your valve to see if it works?

As far a large volumes of water (Royall outdoor/and indoor units) hold less water than a lot of non pressurized units on the market. Remember the explanation tank is a cushion to absorb pressure generated form heat. The pop off will only release if there is no where for heat to go and you build up enough pressure. You can avoid all of this by having a good dump zone for your heat.

 

[kalib stock]

Pressurized boilers are very safe. Non pressurized boilers have very little safety certifications (UL, CSA,). True Pressure vessels have to be built to (code) ASME welding, National Boiler, Hartford Boiler inspections, etc building inspector's look for these items. They cost more but are safe if installed properly (plumbed correctly) They last long and preform well. As long as you have your pressure relief valve and expansion tank sized correctly you will not have any problems period.

As far as exploding your hot water tank has just as high risk (if not higher risk of exploding) if you valve is bad. How many of you check your valve to see if it works?

As far a large volumes of water (Royall outdoor/and indoor units) hold less water than a lot of non pressurized units on the market. Remember the explanation tank is a cushion to absorb pressure generated form heat. The pop off will only release if there is no where for heat to go and you build up enough pressure. You can avoid all of this by having a good dump zone for your heat.

Idc if it's approved, I feel alot safer with a non-pressurized owb, just another thing to go bad down the road IMO. In most areas they have regulations for pressurized indoor/outdoor boilers. They also cycle more often(eat more wood!) because they don't have the water capacity, wich is important in the dead cold of winter with an older drafty house.

 

[danzig]

Having a stamped approved boiler gets you out of a lot of code issues. it is accepted by building and code inspectors. They do not cycle on and off more than any other boiler. It is all how you have the unit plumbed and sized to the heat load. These units will last 30 years no problem. I have mine heating my shop, garage, house, an indirect hotwater tank, and hot water tank.

 

[kalib stock]

Looking at buying an OWB and would like some input. Which brand do you own and why.

I would go with a Taylor, Central Boiler, or Heatmor.
These are all good Mfgs, my preferance is Taylor, simply because they have been around the longest, and there are a lot of them still working after many years in my area!

 

[Alan Smith]

owb

I would go with a Taylor, Central Boiler, or Heatmor.
These are all good Mfgs, my preferance is Taylor, simply because they have been around the longest, and there are a lot of them still working after many years!

and hardy is good .but i got the central boiler .the dealer is in irvine ky

 

[kalib stock]

Having a stamped approved boiler gets you out of a lot of code issues. it is accepted by building and code inspectors. They do not cycle on and off more than any other boiler. It is all how you have the unit plumbed and sized to the heat load. These units will last 30 years no problem. I have mine heating my shop, garage, house, an indirect hotwater tank, and hot water tank.

Yeah, I know all of those things that go into an install! it's common sense, wich owb is going to cool down faster? The 125 Gal. or 250-300 Gal. unit?
Yes, if you have a well insulated house it doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

[windthrown]

I would never buy a pressurized OWB or IWB myself. I see no advantage to them, other than minor with regard to cavitation issues with the pump. I see several disadvantages with them, including cost, safety (if they are not installed right) and plumbing complexity. Place the pump at the lowest point in an open pressure system and it will help it to last longer. Open systems are far easier to plumb. And they work just fine. More water from my POV is better than less; more heat stored. Open systems: KISS. Work good.

I recommend CB, Woodmaster and Taylor, in that order. Heatmore may be added to the list, but I have not seen any in use for longer than a year myself. So time will tell. I do not like auger systems though, nor doors with fans in them. I much prefer the simplicity to the CB boilers and they are UL approved. If taken care of, a mild steel OWB system will last for decades. Whatever boiler system you use, go with a company that has been around for more than 10 years. Warantees are useless if a company goes bust, and many many many (like most) boiler companies have gone under pretty fast in my experience.

I wish I could put an OWB in this place. This is an old house that is v-v-v-v-ery c-c-c-cold in winter. The landlord is willing to put in a fireplace insert though, and we have 10 cords stacked and half of it is dry already.

 

[kalib stock]

I would never buy a pressurized OWB or IWB myself. I see no advantage to them, other than minor with regard to cavitation issues with the pump. I see several disadvantages with them, including cost, safety (if they are not installed right) and plumbing complexity. Place the pump at the lowest point in an open pressure system and it will help it to last longer. Open systems are far easier to plumb. And they work just fine. More water from my POV is better than less; more heat stored. Open systems: KISS. Work good.

I recommend CB, Woodmaster and Taylor, in that order. Heatmore may be added to the list, but I have not seen any in use for longer than a year myself. So time will tell. I do not like auger systems though, nor doors with fans in them. I much prefer the simplicity to the CB boilers and they are UL approved. If taken care of, a mild steel OWB system will last for decades. Whatever boiler system you use, go with a company that has been around for more than 10 years. Warantees are useless if a company goes bust, and many many many (like most) boiler companies have gone under pretty fast in my experience.

I wish I could put an OWB in this place. This is an old house that is v-v-v-v-ery c-c-c-cold in winter. The landlord is willing to put in a fireplace insert though, and we have 10 cords stacked and half of it is dry already.

IMO the Wood Master has too many moving/electrical parts, the door doesn't cover the entire width of the fire box,(good place for build up) Ash auger, and the digital stuff. Water capacity is kind of low. But, some people like all the bells and whistles to replace. :dunno: