I have a Partner R17 saw that is, I believe around a 55cc saw. Can anyone here tell me if a Partner 65cc cylinder/piston will bolt on to it without modifications? The cylinder/piston part# is 506-07-70-01? If you don't know can you direct me to someone who does? Thanks.
Partner R17 question
- Thread starter BIG
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Numbers off my saw
I looked closer at my saw and got all the numbers off of it. There is a 687081 you can see clearly if you look from the end of the bar back toward the saw. Also, at the very base of the cylinder on the bar side of the saw there is a number cast in the cylinder A2 44ZN3-W11. Also, my saw is yellow and has no stickers on the covers. It has no "anit-vibration" mounts, the handle just bolts rigid the the frame. I desperately need a piston for this saw. I would be interested in a cylinder also but don't have to have one. Who's the mostly knowledgable Partner person on this site and/or most likely to have parts for me? Thanks for any leads.
I looked closer at my saw and got all the numbers off of it. There is a 687081 you can see clearly if you look from the end of the bar back toward the saw. Also, at the very base of the cylinder on the bar side of the saw there is a number cast in the cylinder A2 44ZN3-W11. Also, my saw is yellow and has no stickers on the covers. It has no "anit-vibration" mounts, the handle just bolts rigid the the frame. I desperately need a piston for this saw. I would be interested in a cylinder also but don't have to have one. Who's the mostly knowledgable Partner person on this site and/or most likely to have parts for me? Thanks for any leads.
The cylinder from a R20 ( 65 cc ) will fit on your saw.But if i remember correctly,the top cover is different and the bolt hole location on the cyl for the electronic unit is located at a different location,but not sure 100 % .The electronic unit was different too i believe.Try sending a PM to Mange on this forum,he is an old saw collector.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
Mange
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Yes, it should be a R16 you have.
I am not sure this will just bolt on and run without issues.
The cylinder and piston might fit, but ignition you would have to keep I think.
The cases are close, but not identical.
I am not sure this will just bolt on and run without issues.
The cylinder and piston might fit, but ignition you would have to keep I think.
The cases are close, but not identical.
Mange
Addicted to ArboristSite
The serial seems to fit right in with the R16.
The cylinder might have been replaced at somepoint as this A2 44ZN3-W11 is on my R117. My R16's had the same cylinder as far as I can tell but not the numbers -W11.
R16 = 1967 No antivibe or heated handles.
The cylinder might have been replaced at somepoint as this A2 44ZN3-W11 is on my R117. My R16's had the same cylinder as far as I can tell but not the numbers -W11.
R16 = 1967 No antivibe or heated handles.
Mange, I know for certain this saw was bought brand new by my wife's grandfather, now 93 and has never had ANYTHING modified or changed on it so I came with that cylinder. I see that it is an R16 and not an R17 because of it not having anti-vibe. He ran this saw from late sixties to early seventies when he bought it new until around 98-99 before he seized the piston - forgot to mix the gas/oil. Never did a thing to it but bars and chains the entire time and he cuts 4-5 cords of wood each year for personal use. If I find a good piston/rings how likely is it that they will give good compression in my original cylinder? Is the cylinder probably egg-shaped or worn so bad it will never give good compression. If it will work or if it's worth a try, how should I prep my cylinder? A light 3 stone hone or bead hone or no hone at all? How? Any suggestions I appreciate. This saw has huge sentimental value and I want her running again. Thanks.
Stihl Crazy
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The R16 will take the 65 head and a few others bigger than that. The R16 is a favorite saw down here among the "cheating" chainsaw racing crowd for this reason.
My father had 2-R16's for logging pine back when they were introduced. They each cut over 2.5 milllon board feet and still ran great. The newer ones he bought didn't seem to work as good. I can't recall the model #'s but they had anti-vibe and brakes.
My father had 2-R16's for logging pine back when they were introduced. They each cut over 2.5 milllon board feet and still ran great. The newer ones he bought didn't seem to work as good. I can't recall the model #'s but they had anti-vibe and brakes.
From what HIoctane and Stihl Crazy are saying, the cylinder will bolt up and work but it's not a "bolt-in" replacement where my saw can use all the same parts (ignition, top cover, etc) and be ready to cut wood? I don't want to have to chase down a different coil, top cover, etc since I hear these Partner parts are getting scarce.
HiOctane, I guess I should try muriatic acid first. From what I understand, since the cylinder is plated and much harder than the aluminum piston, what I feel and see is most likely a "buildup" of aluminum that got deposited from the piston to the cylinder wall when the piston started "melting". This means acid will likely break it loosed leaving a still smooth cylinder wall underneath. If this works and there is minimal to no scoring of the cylinder wall, should I just stick a piston/rings in it after using the acid or does it need a light hone of some sort? If so, specifically how do I need to do this?
Mange
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mr. Big.
This is one of the latest made R16's.
It could very well be correct cylinder on it. I have never seen any of these as they were export only. I was told they were sold as Farmer saws.
The cylinder number is most likly correct.
The R16 was introduced here in April 1967 and sold here till end of 1968.
The one you have is likly made in fall/winter 1968.
R17 was introduced here in June 1968 and sales rapedly dropped and it was not availeble to order here after september.
The R16 should be 55cc. I think that is what you have.
This is one of the latest made R16's.
It could very well be correct cylinder on it. I have never seen any of these as they were export only. I was told they were sold as Farmer saws.
The cylinder number is most likly correct.
The R16 was introduced here in April 1967 and sold here till end of 1968.
The one you have is likly made in fall/winter 1968.
R17 was introduced here in June 1968 and sales rapedly dropped and it was not availeble to order here after september.
The R16 should be 55cc. I think that is what you have.
That sounds about right. My wife's grandfather bought it new in East Texas around 1970 as best he and family members can remember. He ran it hard until the very late 90's. It was one tough saw. Gobs of torque - it's just got lot's of "sick-em" for a 55cc saw. Doesn't turn lots of revs but with an aggressive chain, this little R16 will do lots of work. This one is still in good shape besides needing a top end rebuild... How fun it will be to get it fired back up and let the now 93 year old man that bought it new watch it throw some chips...
