penetrating oil?

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mga

wandering
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i know many of you guys do alot of work on your own equipment, so what type of penetrating oil have you found, in personal experience, to be the best to remove old rusted bolts or shafts?
 
PB blaster, Is used at my shop, Ive used the Krol cant say its worth the cost, I couldent see a difference, wallmart caries pb E,J,
 
i know many of you guys do alot of work on your own equipment, so what type of penetrating oil have you found, in personal experience, to be the best to remove old rusted bolts or shafts?

MGA do you have a specific shaft that you are trying to remove, pic? I keep a open top can with penetrant sitting at the back of my bench, It usally has somthing in it like a rusty tool, stickey pliers, a ratchet, etc, when I pull out the tool /part, I stick it in an empty can to bleed out, Itl last you along time,saving every drop,.you can buy a gallon at the auto parts store for about $25.00 E,J,
 
MGA do you have a specific shaft that you are trying to remove, pic? I keep a open top can with penetrant sitting at the back of my bench, It usally has somthing in it like a rusty tool, stickey pliers, a ratchet, etc, when I pull out the tool /part, I stick it in an empty can to bleed out, Itl last you along time,saving every drop,.you can buy a gallon at the auto parts store for about $25.00 E,J,


lol...as a matter of fact, yes i do. i'm trying to remove a flywheel on an 18hp briggs engine that i acquired for my log splitter. it runs very well, however, i have to change the starter. to get the rear bolt i am trying to remove the flywheel. i tried Liquid Wrench with plenty of heat and no luck. i have the puller attached as per briggs instructions, but this is the worst flywheel i've ever encountered. it just refuses to budge.

since Kroil seems to be the favorite among you guys, i'm going to try that. Liquid Wrench was a waste of 5 bucks.

i've gotten into the habit of always putting anti-seize compound on anything i remove from an engine. (learned that owning an old corvette) i sure wish manufacturers did the same thing.
 
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Never sieze

lol...as a matter of fact, yes i do. i'm trying to remove a flywheel on an 18hp briggs engine that i acquired for my log splitter. it runs very well, however, i have to change the starter. to get the rear bolt i am trying to remove the flywheel. i tried Liquid Wrench with plenty of heat and no luck. i have the puller attached as per briggs instructions, but this is the worst flywheel i've ever encountered. it just refuses to budge.

since Kroil seems to be the favorite among you guys, i'm going to try that. Liquid Wrench was a waste of 5 bucks.

i've gotten into the habit of always putting anti-seize compound on anything i remove from an engine. (learned that owning an old corvette) i sure wish manufacturers did the same thing.

Amen to NZ, can you post a pic of the puller attached to the flywheel, You probably get alota opinions with a pic, E,J,
 
ask and ye shall receive:


flywheelpuller.jpg
 
I won a case of Fluid Film awhile back, so that's my favorite right now. It's gonna last me a long time too.
 
Viberation

ask and ye shall receive:


flywheelpuller.jpg

Ive always thought VIBERATION was the # one enemy of any thing mechinical, or structural, And use it alot to get things apart,. I wood remove the puller, and take a large starter punch, (better than a drift punch), As your moter is sitting (shaft verticle), there is a raised portion of the flywheel, looks like about a half in tall,. using a large hammer, and a large starter punch, hit that portion of the flywheel, all the way around, with some pretty stuot wachs, HOLDING the punch horiziontaly, Then go around the raised portion of the hub, Holding the punch at a 45 degree angle, The viberation/force, breakes down the grip the flywheel has on the shaft, Now install the puller, put as much safe preload as you can on the puller, and using a large diameter shank, and hammer, Hit the end of the shaft/puller, area, If it dosent break loose keep it wet with a good penetrant, and try the viberation thing again tommorow, Good Luck, Eric
 
ask and ye shall receive:


http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k228/mga_01/flywheelpuller.jpg?

Have you tried getting tension on the puller and then a heavy hit on the puller?[/QUOTE]

yep...used a copper mallet.

the puller has tension on it now. i don't want to apply any more because the bolts might rip the threads out.

in fact, you can see the bar bending slightly from being so tight. i'll try the Kroil or the other stuff the guys have said to use and let it soak over night.
 
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silikroil or pb

Try mixing atf with kroil for a thicker oil that clings to parts better

sounds stupid but it works for me

also one heck of a gun oil
 
Steel

yep...used a copper mallet.

the puller has tension on it now. i don't want to apply any more because the bolts might rip the threads out.

in fact, you can see the bar bending slightly from being so tight. i'll try the Kroil or the other stuff the guys have said to use and let it soak over night.

Use a large steel hammer, the soft copper has only a fraction of viberation ability as a steel hammer,. Eric
 
Klein tools used to have a real good spray can penetrant. Haven't seen it in a while since most of the electrical suppliers have gone by the wayside.
Use Kroil alot now.
 

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