zooms01
ArboristSite Lurker
How about a Makita 6401.
perfect firewood saw?? opinions
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brncreeper
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superfire
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saw option
less than 10 full cords= a saw in the 50cc-80cc power class with a 18" or 24" bar
more than 10 full cords= a saw in the 70cc-100cc power class with a 28" or 36" bar
this is based more left coast versus right coast thing
less than 10 full cords= a saw in the 50cc-80cc power class with a 18" or 24" bar
more than 10 full cords= a saw in the 70cc-100cc power class with a 28" or 36" bar
this is based more left coast versus right coast thing
ALOT, the wood I get is from a few of the local aborists, it seems they only get called in for the big ones. A 4'X30' oak stalk, man thats a big hunk of wood!
PA Plumber
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Bowtie
Gearhead
Probably won't but I will say I have other saws I would rather run then my 361.
All I cut is firewood, mostly hedge(osage orange) and I would actually rather run my muffler modded 026 then the 361 for 75% of what I cut. 026 is setup with 3/8 16" and the 361 is 3/8 20". The weight difference is huge, of course the 361 fells and bucks the trunks faster and I wouldn't jump into a 20+" trunk with the 026 but I don't waste much wood, anything 4" and larger gets cut for sure unless it is just unbelievably brushy and even most 3" stuff gets cut, so with how I cut most of the time cutting is small stuff and while doing that work with the 361 is not too bad it tires me out faster. Now if I could only have one saw and cutting many 20" trees I would probably pick the 361 unless I just didn't cut any of the limbs up in which I would probably pick something in the 70cc class. My problem is a 70cc class saw all day would leave me worn out and dragging. Power to weight the 026 with a muffler mod is absolutely gold and is a joy to run.
Anyway, for one saw the 361 is very universal saw and cuts very fast if you run it right. My dad dislikes it, of course he would rather grab the 066 as he is a torque lover and likes to be able to lean on the saw a little. I like the 361 but notice a huge difference in how it cuts depending on the style of operation.
Cut in 1/2 is still mity big, and the 440 works ok, but I mostly quarter them with the 125. I'm building two 125s with 101s for this task. Iv got a 54in bar with chisel for one of them, I looking to put a 36in with ripping chain on the other.:chainsawguy:
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Call me old fashioned and old
rebuild the ole 031. This is the 1st year I have touched a chainsaw in 25 years
If the damn thing fits your hands and you like it rebuild it!turbo
ArboristSite Operative
I guess you have to ask the right question,What is the best fire wood saw for the average wood that I have to cut. So what do you have,Lot of 16-20 inch oak, or 4 foot swamp willows? good luck!
Festus Haggen
ArboristSite Operative
Hard to say, depends on your local weather, how it's stacked, whether it's exposed to wind/sun, cover. Probably be burnable after 4-5 months, 9 is better, a full year is great and guarantees that it will burn to its potential. Also depends on the moisture level when cut, winter-cut wood is generally drier to start, since most of the sap has receded.
Also, wood will season fastest when it is cut, split and stacked properly. Log-length wood will hardly dry at all in a few months. More surface area helps. I leave maple to season for at least 12 months after it's been split and stacked, but ash might sit for only 3 months. Keep checking, burn a couple pieces as a test. If it hisses, steams or won't burn right, keep waiting.
PA Plumber
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A little OT, but here it goes...
Red Oak where we live, needs at least 12 months. Longer is better.
Hickory is about 12 months but it has to be off the ground. I have some I'm burning now that I dropped 2 years ago on a TSI thinning. The side on the ground is punky, but the rest sure burns great.
Can't help with Elm. Burned a lot of it, as a kid, growing up. Wood heat only, so we would only let it go about 6 mos. Man that stuff would hiss a lot. Looking back, I'm sure we burned a lot of unseasoned wood. I remember we would use between 11 and 12 cord per winter.
SawTroll
Information Collector
NO!!!!
Power to weight is not good!
Well, for station ary cutting it doesn't really matter.......
PA Plumber
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SawS
ArboristSite Lurker
To reccomend one saw over another will create quite a stir. If my first saw had been a Stihl, I'd prob. be Stihl for life... but my first was a Husky, believe it or not, because I always thought they sounded better running wide open in a long cut than the Stihls do... The saw I use 90% of the time is my Husky 350 with an 18" sprocket nose (stock) bar .325 x .050 x 72 links. I have bigger Husky saws for big stuff, but it is the 350 that gets the lions share of work sawing up all of the wood I use for the woodstove. I will use this saw when I should have gone and gotten the bigger saw, I'll just make cuts from both sides instead of one cut with the long bar...just 'cause it is lighter, easier to work with I guess. I use Carlton semi chisel chain, plain chain, bumper link, and guard link chain (whichever my supplier has available when I need a chain... which isn't very often 'cause this chain lasts a long time.) I have found the Carlton semi chisel chain holds up very well... as long as you do your part not to screw it up. Using Carltons File O Plate filing tool, I can tune up the chain in no time and it cuts through hardwoods all day long like butter. I have been using the same Husky 350, all stock, since 2000, nearly trouble free, and it is crazy how much wood it has been through...
