Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

[Philbert]

OK, these are what the pans in Post#228 looked like 'before': Got these free at a garage sale - will go in the oven next time it goes through a 'self-cleaning' cycle.

*NOTE* (sorry, can't go back and edit posts older than 24 hours anymore!)

The aluminum pans (Post #229) came out better than the steel pans shown (Post #237)! The aluminum ones were cleaned down to the bare metal. Apparently, the steel pans had some type of coating that was burned off (?). They are still suitable for shop use, but I would not use this cleaning process for steel pans that you intended to use again for food.

Philbert

 

[wde_1978]

I like this thread , interesting read.

Salvage challenge ?

It is missing ONLY 7 teeth (out of 36, 72DL loop) , 2 or 3 are bent!

Generates a kerf narrower then the rivets are (see wood-polished rivet heads) , huge race chain potential.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Always good to touch up the back of the cutter now and again regardless of method.

Could I please get more info on this? Thanks!

 

[67L36Driver]

I like this thread , interesting read.

Salvage challenge ?

It is missing ONLY 7 teeth (out of 36, 72DL loop) , 2 or 3 are bent!

Generates a kerf narrower then the rivets are (see wood-polished rivet heads) , huge race chain potential.

View attachment 432954

Finish grinding the cutters off and use it to power your bicycle.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Could I please get more info on this? Thanks!

Just a tongue-in-cheek remark about the chain pictured in post 221.

 

[Cj genever]

My rust secret weapon is a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf. The acetone thins and carries the oil in. The atf has detergents that help break the rust. You can then heat any non-heat sensitive part till it starts to boil out. Stop before it dries and hit it with more mix. The mix will suck in like solder on copper fittings.

I I've saved a chain that was devastated by rust. It took a month long diesel bath during which I would work the rivets every few days. At the end I gave it a few days in b/c oil. The rivets were a touch loose, but not too bad. That chain accompanies my climbing saw to this day. I keep it around for a backup.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Just a tongue-in-cheek remark about the chain pictured in post 221.

I thought you were serious!

@ myself

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I thought you were serious!

@ myself

Fret not. Sometimes I'm not quite sure myself!

 

[Philbert]

Always good to touch up the back of the cutter now and again regardless of method.

Could I please get more info on this? Thanks!

Just a tongue-in-cheek remark about the chain pictured in post 221.

Actually, some guys 'clip' the back of the top plate on their cutters, grinding it off at a slight angle, supposedly to reduce drag (?) or to improve chip flow (?), or reduce weight (?). There is some stuff on this if you dig into the race chain threads. Probably not a worthwhile modification for most users.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

My rust secret weapon is a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf.

A lot of guys have success with that. My results were not as positive. There are some comments in this thread on it: Posts 51 - 80, 90, 104 - 107.

Philbert

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Actually, some guys 'clip' the back of the top plate on their cutters, grinding it off at a slight angle, supposedly to reduce drag (?) or to improve chip flow (?), or reduce weight (?). There is some stuff on this if you dig into the race chain threads. Probably not a worthwhile modification for most users.

Philbert

Would only make sense to me for when puttin' a chain on backward!

 

[Philbert]

Salvage challenge ? It is missing ONLY 7 teeth (out of 36, 72DL loop) , 2 or 3 are bent!

Somebody got some use out of that chain! Again, note that the drivers and tie straps are still in pretty good condition - compare that to some chains that have been sharpened maybe once, and have all kinds of wear on the other components, due to worn sprockets, poor tensioning, lack of oiling, jumping the bar groove, etc.

Finish grinding the cutters off and use it to power your bicycle.

I have often wondered where users find drive-only chains for use with chainsaw accessories, like the Lewis Winch, or the Log Wizard de-barking tool.

Philbert

 

[wde_1978]

Somebody got some use out of that chain! Again, note that the drivers and tie straps are still in pretty good condition - compare that to some chains that have been sharpened maybe once, and have all kinds of wear on the other components, due to worn sprockets, poor tensioning, lack of oiling, jumping the bar groove, etc.

I did !

It wasn't always like that with my chains , took me a long while to learn how to half way properly sharpen a chain!
I had chains snap due to tie strap or drive link breakage all the time - used to take those to the local Stihl dealer to fix them so I could use a little more of the 50+% remaining teeth.

Buying my Dolmar PS-6400 back in 2006. was a great move , came with round ground chisel chain changing my filing/sharpening technique for the better.
I always knew how to sharpen drills , thus sharpening a chisel chain came easy to me.
I can't stand filing those darn round tooth safety chains of my Sachs-Dolmar 105 though.

 

[Philbert]

I can't stand filing those darn round tooth safety chains of my Sachs-Dolmar 105 though.

They are worthless. Mail 'em to me an I will dispose of them properly for you.

Philbert

 

[wde_1978]

They are worthless. Mail 'em to me an I will dispose of them properly for you.

Philbert

Forgot to mention that those round tooth chains are low profile and the saw is a small 1,7kW top handle saw.
Thus I am sort off forced to use that kind of chain as I never encountered chisel low profile 3/8" chains in shops around my living area!

 

[Philbert]

I never encountered chisel low profile 3/8" chains in shops around my living area!

STIHL PS3 is a chisel tooth, 'Picco' (3/8, low profile) chain. Still round filed, but it can (and has!) been converted to square filed: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/ps3/

"STIHL PICCO™ Super 3 is a low-profile, low-kickback saw chain. The razor-edged, square-cornered cutter shape ensures minimum chain friction for an exceptionally smooth and clean cut in hard or frozen wood. Considered a high-performance cutting chain,"

STIHL PS is the non-low-kickback version. Still available in some places. http://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produc...22177-1631/Picco-Super-(PS)-3-8-P-1-3-mm.aspx

"Apart from the 3/8" PS3 chain, it's the only Picco full chisel tooth chain on the market. Significantly better cutting performance than all other available low-profile saw chains with a 1.3 mm drive link. Even greater boring performance that the 3/8" PS3 saw chain."

Philbert

 

[wde_1978]

STIHL PS3 is a chisel tooth, 'Picco' (3/8, low profile) chain. Also available in some places without the low kickback bumper. Still round filed, but it can (and has!) been converted to square filed: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/ps3/

"STIHL PICCO™ Super 3 is a low-profile, low-kickback saw chain. The razor-edged, square-cornered cutter shape ensures minimum chain friction for an exceptionally smooth and clean cut in hard or frozen wood. Considered a high-performance cutting chain,"

http://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produc...22177-1631/Picco-Super-(PS)-3-8-P-1-3-mm.aspx

Philbert

Thanks for the info Philbert , might look into it once I fix my "105"!

Although, haven't I read somewhere here on AS that the Stihl Picco 3/8" has a slightly different pitch then the Oregon LowProfile 3/8" does?
If so , would it still fit without damaging the saws and bars sprocket?

Though I might be wrong , imagining things.

 

[Philbert]

Although, haven't I read somewhere here on AS that the Stihl Picco 3/8" has a slightly different pitch then the Oregon LowProfile 3/8" does?

Completely interchangeable. 'Low Profile'. 'Picco'. Husqvarna calls it 'Pixel'.

Please start a thread on your efforts and results if you convert a loop to square filed.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Back to the top. Evapo-Rust still works. I am fascinated with this product, primarily because it works better than vinegar. Yes, it costs more than vinegar, but it works better to remove rust from cutting chains and leaves the shine on.

 

[Philbert]

Your Basic Cinderella Makeover . . .
(Bump)

Nothing exciting, just been slow around the Chain Salvage Challenge.

Saw this chain on the top of a neighbor's junk pile left out for the scrappers. Said he found it in his garage when he moved in, but had no idea what saw it was for.


Basic cleaning, and it is a STIHL, .325, .063, 62 DL semi-chisel, low-kickback chain used on MS250's, etc. Sharpened maybe twice, ready for a third time. Retails for about $23 around here.


Philbert