jughead500
Sasquatch
Told you you'd like it.
I'm sure if some of these stihlivarna diehards would try them they would like them too.
I'm sure if some of these stihlivarna diehards would try them they would like them too.
Picked up a timber wolf today.
- Thread starter Jrapp
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If you had done that comparison it would have only made you happier you bought the 590. The other day i compared a 029 to a CS-600 (both chains were equal and both were tuned) not even close. I would say the 600 is roughly 25-30% faster.
jughead500
Sasquatch
I doubt it would make much difference.
Tractorsaw1
ArboristSite Guru
These things are really getting cheap for NIB off the bay for barely over $300, real value that's getting harder to ignore. Anyone get a price from baileys on the 620? Might just get one of these rodeo saws myself.
jughead500
Sasquatch
I'd really like to try a 620.one of these days.
Spellfeller
A noob wising he had more time to cut trees...
Great saw, Jrapp. I love mine!
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a lot of respect for Echo. I have a 330 that runs well and is a solid limbing saw. I just bought an echo top handle from a liquidator that will not start but looks new. I will take some trash for this but IMHO, they are very close with Stihl and cheaper. Congrats on the saw...wish I could find one as a project.
My brother just picked one up from the bay for a good price. We both are husky/jonsersed fans, but this one impressed us. Not broke in yet and cuts well with good a/v and good air filtration. The b/c not being of regular size and driver count is a bit funky.
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Sent from my Z665C using Tapatalk
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
Who's porting it for you?
jughead500
Sasquatch
That ones screaming Muffler Mod.
Probably no porting for now. Already opened up the muffler and pulled limiter caps, so we could get a good tune!
Took a die grinder to the baffle plate under the deflecter. Removed about 3/4's of the shield(baffle) to let exhaust out quicker and with less restriction. Tried removing the baffle plate, but I thought it allowed exhaust to come up and hit more on the chainbrake handle.
If this makes no sense I can try to get some pics, but if you look into it I think you'll see what I did.
jughead500
Sasquatch
When I muffler modded mine I only drilled a 1/2" hole in the flat spot under the deflector next to the tube.seems like all it done was create a flat spot at wot that I cant tune out.i'm gonna go a little bit more on opening it up soon.also going to measure the squish and see if its possible to ditch the base gasket.
BTY
ArboristSite Lurker
I pulled the base gasket on my 600p and put it back together with motoseal. I didn't see much of a difference. I only gained about 10 psi of compression with no noticeable gain in response or power. I don't remember exactly what the squish was after I removed the gasket but it still had 0.030+ of clearance. I ran it a while like that then decided to open up the muffler a bit which turned out to be not such a great idea.
I ended up with a flat spot on the top end as well. Seems like this motor needs a fair amount of back pressure to run right on the top end. I've replaced the base gasket and will end up brazing closed what I ground out on the muffler.
If I could do it over I would just remove the baffle plate under the exhaust deflector, trim the limiter tabs and run it. But you don't know till you try.
I ended up with a flat spot on the top end as well. Seems like this motor needs a fair amount of back pressure to run right on the top end. I've replaced the base gasket and will end up brazing closed what I ground out on the muffler.
If I could do it over I would just remove the baffle plate under the exhaust deflector, trim the limiter tabs and run it. But you don't know till you try.
jughead500
Sasquatch
True.I would like to open up the whole muffler and do some inside surgery.replacement mufflers are pretty pricey though.went through that on a fs250 muffler.be a little different if i still had oxygen and acetylene so I could braze.
I pulled the base gasket on my 600p and put it back together with motoseal. I didn't see much of a difference. I only gained about 10 psi of compression with no noticeable gain in response or power. I don't remember exactly what the squish was after I removed the gasket but it still had 0.030+ of clearance. I ran it a while like that then decided to open up the muffler a bit which turned out to be not such a great idea.
I ended up with a flat spot on the top end as well. Seems like this motor needs a fair amount of back pressure to run right on the top end. I've replaced the base gasket and will end up brazing closed what I ground out on the muffler.
If I could do it over I would just remove the baffle plate under the exhaust deflector, trim the limiter tabs and run it. But you don't know till you try.
The flat spot that your finding is caused by the limited ignition. You can order the oem echo cs-620 open ignition from Baileys for around $80, which will also give you another 10 degrees of advance. The 620 also runs a slightly larger carb, HDA-316 vs HDA-268.
My cs590 gained quite a bit with a MM. The limited coil can be worked around, you can even advance the timing. It would be really hard to notice any difference with 10 extra psi of compression, even with timed cuts. However within reason more compression is always better.
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