Picked up a timber wolf today.

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RedFir Down

RedFir Down

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I will report back. I kinda wish I still had my 029 super to do a side by side comparison. But it sold faster than I expected. From just holding it the echo feels well balanced. I am expecting it to cut very well.
If you had done that comparison it would have only made you happier you bought the 590. The other day i compared a 029 to a CS-600 (both chains were equal and both were tuned) not even close. I would say the 600 is roughly 25-30% faster.
 
Jrapp

Jrapp

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The 590 is really smooth. Very little vibration. I was originally going to switch out the front handle for one like on the 600. But I'm not sure it would make any improvement.
 
Tractorsaw1

Tractorsaw1

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These things are really getting cheap for NIB off the bay for barely over $300, real value that's getting harder to ignore. Anyone get a price from baileys on the 620? Might just get one of these rodeo saws myself.
 
cedarshark

cedarshark

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I have a lot of respect for Echo. I have a 330 that runs well and is a solid limbing saw. I just bought an echo top handle from a liquidator that will not start but looks new. I will take some trash for this but IMHO, they are very close with Stihl and cheaper. Congrats on the saw...wish I could find one as a project.
 
Ronaldo

Ronaldo

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My brother just picked one up from the bay for a good price. We both are husky/jonsersed fans, but this one impressed us. Not broke in yet and cuts well with good a/v and good air filtration. The b/c not being of regular size and driver count is a bit funky.
duqa6emu.jpg
9a4amugy.jpg


Sent from my Z665C using Tapatalk
 
Ronaldo

Ronaldo

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What did you do to the muffler? I have seen one way so far. I just ran mine today!
Took a die grinder to the baffle plate under the deflecter. Removed about 3/4's of the shield(baffle) to let exhaust out quicker and with less restriction. Tried removing the baffle plate, but I thought it allowed exhaust to come up and hit more on the chainbrake handle.
If this makes no sense I can try to get some pics, but if you look into it I think you'll see what I did.
 
jughead500

jughead500

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When I muffler modded mine I only drilled a 1/2" hole in the flat spot under the deflector next to the tube.seems like all it done was create a flat spot at wot that I cant tune out.i'm gonna go a little bit more on opening it up soon.also going to measure the squish and see if its possible to ditch the base gasket.
 

BTY

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I pulled the base gasket on my 600p and put it back together with motoseal. I didn't see much of a difference. I only gained about 10 psi of compression with no noticeable gain in response or power. I don't remember exactly what the squish was after I removed the gasket but it still had 0.030+ of clearance. I ran it a while like that then decided to open up the muffler a bit which turned out to be not such a great idea.

I ended up with a flat spot on the top end as well. Seems like this motor needs a fair amount of back pressure to run right on the top end. I've replaced the base gasket and will end up brazing closed what I ground out on the muffler.

If I could do it over I would just remove the baffle plate under the exhaust deflector, trim the limiter tabs and run it. But you don't know till you try. :)
 
jughead500

jughead500

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True.I would like to open up the whole muffler and do some inside surgery.replacement mufflers are pretty pricey though.went through that on a fs250 muffler.be a little different if i still had oxygen and acetylene so I could braze.
 
rmh3481

rmh3481

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I pulled the base gasket on my 600p and put it back together with motoseal. I didn't see much of a difference. I only gained about 10 psi of compression with no noticeable gain in response or power. I don't remember exactly what the squish was after I removed the gasket but it still had 0.030+ of clearance. I ran it a while like that then decided to open up the muffler a bit which turned out to be not such a great idea.

I ended up with a flat spot on the top end as well. Seems like this motor needs a fair amount of back pressure to run right on the top end. I've replaced the base gasket and will end up brazing closed what I ground out on the muffler.

If I could do it over I would just remove the baffle plate under the exhaust deflector, trim the limiter tabs and run it. But you don't know till you try. :)

The flat spot that your finding is caused by the limited ignition. You can order the oem echo cs-620 open ignition from Baileys for around $80, which will also give you another 10 degrees of advance. The 620 also runs a slightly larger carb, HDA-316 vs HDA-268.
 

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