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P25 Flywheel

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Is the center nut right or left hand threads? Just tried to remove it and I feel like I am going to break it. I currently have the socket on and flooded with rust penetrant. :chainsaw:

Pretty sure the little threaded holes are 10-32 now...
 
It should be left hand on the flywheel and right on the clutch. My larger P's all are. I would wait for a positive answer, I'm not positive.
 
Dunno about that one for sure, but many of my other saws have clockwise threads on the flywheel nut and reverse threads on the clutch nut. Since the crankshaft is spinning in the opposite direction at each end (not literally, but if you were to look at each end head-on, one would be spinning clockwise and one counter-clockwise) the rotational forces are also opposite on the nuts.

Many bench grinders are also threaded opposite at each end for the same reason, otherwise any reverse force on the wheel could spin the nut off if the threads were opposite to the rotation. In other words, most of the time there should be RH threads for CCW rotation (flywheel), and LH threads for CW rotation (clutch). GENERALLY.

If you have a cordless impact driver, give that a try. My Makita 18V will pop almost any flywheel or clutch nut I've thrown at it, but it's not strong enough to bend or shear the crank as a pneumatic impact gun can.

EDIT: Went downstairs and pulled the nut of the P26 parts saw I have. I'll be damned, it IS a reverse thread, just like the clutch side. Here's what mine looks like:

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I checked the 2171 and both 970 projects (essentially identical) and it's the same story with them too. What are you using as a penetrant? I like Releasall for rusted parts since it actually reacts with and dissolves some of the rust as well. Works much better for me than WD-40 anyway.
 
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Dunno about that one for sure, but many of my other saws have clockwise threads on the flywheel nut and reverse threads on the clutch nut. Since the crankshaft is spinning in the opposite direction at each end (not literally, but if you were to look at each end head-on, one would be spinning clockwise and one counter-clockwise) the rotational forces are also opposite on the nuts.

Many bench grinders are also threaded opposite at each end for the same reason, otherwise any reverse force on the wheel could spin the nut off if the threads were opposite to the rotation. In other words, most of the time there should be RH threads for CCW rotation (flywheel), and LH threads for CW rotation (clutch). GENERALLY.

If you have a cordless impact driver, give that a try. My Makita 18V will pop almost any flywheel or clutch nut I've thrown at it, but it's not strong enough to bend or shear the crank as a pneumatic impact gun can.

EDIT: Went downstairs and pulled the nut of the P26 parts saw I have. I'll be damned, it IS a reverse thread, just like the clutch side. Here's what mine looks like:

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I checked the 2171 and both 970 projects (essentially identical) and it's the same story with them too. What are you using as a penetrant? I like Releasall for rusted parts since it actually reacts with and dissolves some of the rust as well. Works much better for me than WD-40 anyway.

I am using some orange can of "rust penetrant" I had laying around. Smells like oranges.

Clutch side has an indicator that it is removed left hand threads. Seems both sides are left hand then...???
 
Dismantling a saw

Hey guys Whats the proper way for dismantling a saw? 650? Can piston and rings be replaced just by removing the barrel? Are there proper tools for removing the bearings in the conrod?
 
Hello Brian
This is what I used for a flywheel puller.It's an orignal Pioneer part.Somewhere in this thread there is more about it but my computer is runing slow today and it takes a long time to search the pages.Propliner also knows the machine screw sizes.Not sure but I think Poulan dealers still carry ones that will fit.If you find more than one please let me know
Lawrence

Petesoldsaw-BrushKing2008024.jpg

Just tried to pull the flywheel on my P25. As I suspected 10-24 bolt broke trying to pull it. Maybe propliner was right 12-24 :bang:. The bolts in the pics above almost look like heat treated 17-4 stainless to me, are they 12-24?

In any event, the second try resulted in the a nice sounding "ping". Unfortunately the "ping" was all of the threads on one side of the flywheel ripping out.

So here is the question. Can I drill out the two holes and tap them as 1/4-20 to get some strength?

I can't get my "grabber" type puller behind the outside or I would have tried that.

:chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw:
 
The flywheels are usually 12-24. I don't see any reason why you can't drill and tap them to 1/4". I would use the fine thread 1/4, not 1/4-20. Finer threads give you more pulling strength. If this was my saw, I would drill and tap it.
 
The flywheels are usually 12-24. I don't see any reason why you can't drill and tap them to 1/4". I would use the fine thread 1/4, not 1/4-20. Finer threads give you more pulling strength. If this was my saw, I would drill and tap it.

Is there anything behind there I can wreck drilling it out?
 
I would use a depth adjuster/stopper on the drill bit, and go a little bit at a time. I don't have a P25, Im not sure whats behind it.
 
p41

used my P41 today put 6 tanks of fuel through it was running better and better cutting macrocara Then it stopped:jawdrop: just like it ran out of fuel. Then the pullstart cord broke. Time to go home What should i look for? I hope its not the coil
 
Just tried to pull the flywheel on my P25. As I suspected 10-24 bolt broke trying to pull it. Maybe propliner was right 12-24 :bang:. The bolts in the pics above almost look like heat treated 17-4 stainless to me, are they 12-24?

In any event, the second try resulted in the a nice sounding "ping". Unfortunately the "ping" was all of the threads on one side of the flywheel ripping out.

So here is the question. Can I drill out the two holes and tap them as 1/4-20 to get some strength?

I can't get my "grabber" type puller behind the outside or I would have tried that.

:chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw:[/QUOTE

I am pretty sure those screws are 12-24 Brian.Not positive on this but I think you can still get flywheel pullers from poulan pro dealers that fit those smaller Pseries saws.I will also try and take a backside picture of the flywheel today,if that's what you are after.I am pretty sure you know the points are behind the flywheel.
Lawrence
 
Just tried to pull the flywheel on my P25. As I suspected 10-24 bolt broke trying to pull it. Maybe propliner was right 12-24 :bang:. The bolts in the pics above almost look like heat treated 17-4 stainless to me, are they 12-24?

In any event, the second try resulted in the a nice sounding "ping". Unfortunately the "ping" was all of the threads on one side of the flywheel ripping out.

So here is the question. Can I drill out the two holes and tap them as 1/4-20 to get some strength?

I can't get my "grabber" type puller behind the outside or I would have tried that.

:chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw:[/QUOTE

I am pretty sure those screws are 12-24 Brian.Not positive on this but I think you can still get flywheel pullers from poulan pro dealers that fit those smaller Pseries saws.I will also try and take a backside picture of the flywheel today,if that's what you are after.I am pretty sure you know the points are behind the flywheel.
Lawrence

Yes! A picture would be great. I know the points are back there but have no idea what it looks like.
 
The saw looks good with the bar on. Is that a 24"? I agree with everybody, the bar is fine, run it. I will try to post some pics of my P41 and P51 in the next few days, they don't look as good as your Lawrence. Ive been busy gettin ready for archery deer season. It opens up Oct. 1 :clap:


Ed, That's a 30 inch bar on the P41 I have
Lawrence
 
P25 Play by play

Once I got the right :censored: bolts (12-24) :buttkick: flywheel popped right off. You can see below I didn't do the point cover any favors however. Question now is what is the best way to get the key out of the shaft? I tried tapping it with a screw driver to no avail but didn't wail on it. I would think it should just pop out but apparently the "wet storage" method used on this saw isn't helping.

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Flywheel

Brian,Sorry! I did not post the picture soon enough.I guess it's a little late for that now.The key that I had fell right out after the flywheel popped off.Some of the Gurus could tell you what to do with the stuck key.
Lawrence
 

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