Pioneer chainsaws

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Brian. I haven't taken the bar studs out of any of my saws, but they should turn out counterclockwise. I don't think you have to take the clutch off to get the studs out. Take off the clutch cover, and then double nut the stud that you want to remove. Tighten the nuts against each other and then put a wrench on the lower nut and turn out the stud. On the large frame P series saws the studs are torqued to 18-20 foot pounds so the 1073 is probably less and should turn out easily enough. Let us know how you make out.
 
Just bought a Pioneer 620 with a seized motor, hopefully there's not to much wrong with it, these models look great restored.

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you bloody lucky i got carried away playing with my new 880 gmax, i forgot all about that 620 it was gonna be my donor saw to finish my 600 off. at least it went to an as member still aint seen none of that 800 from a while back.
 
I don't know if I'm lucky yet until I find out why its seized, I guess your getting the other Pioneer parts from the same seller?
Hows the weather over there today? supposed to be fire-storm conditions today.
 
yeah i got the top and side cover hopefully the side cover is good mine has a small chip and crack in it. i came home from work i couldn see a thing for dust the wind must be getting up around the 100k mark i reckon. and hot and humid real nice day
 
1073 studs

Still looking for pointers for removing one of the bar mount studs on a 1073. Anyone done this before? Can I weld on a nut and use that? Also, Does the piece the bolt goes through (that requires me to remove the clutch to remove) have to come off first?

I don't think the studs are removable on the 1073. They are cast into the case half. There is a repair mod that involves cutting the stripped outer half of the stud off, enlarging the holes of the clutch cover and using special bar nuts that grab the inner half of the stud. I may have a couple of these and I'll check in the morning. Are your studs' threads totally shot the full length or are they OK further in?
 
If the studs don`t come out then you can just rethread them, I have done this on a couple of saws just to keep them running for my customers, I use a hexagonal drive threader and depending on the stud size use the next smaller size ,either std. or metric. I have not changed studs on a 1073 and have not looked at doing so, looking at the ipl and service manual they are not shown as a separate part. A lot of the saws in the Pioneer series used studs that pressed in from the inside of the oil tank side of the case, they could be driven back in and replaced without splitting the case but was a tricky and time consuming job, you better have a lot of patience if you attempt to do that job.
Pioneerguy600
 
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Here is the sevice bulletin for the repair:


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I have the nuts for the 5/16" if you want them but I'm not sure what size yours are.

This bulletin is great and exactly adresses what happened. I did re-thread the bad one to the next size down metric but I am thinking what happens when this fails too? Plus the nut us so much smaller and has no flange so it doesn't quite spread the load out on the cover like a good flange nut does. If I could get the nuts from you that would be a perfect solution for the rear and backup plan for the front stud. The front stud is good and the back one does have some good original thread further back. I will PM my info to you. Thank You.
 
What should I do?

I've started tearing into the Pioneer 400 that I have got....

Compression feels excellent, but no spark.

Will I be able to find any parts for this saw? The only area that I am really worried about is ignition. If I can get this saw to fire, I think I can get it to run.
Does anyone know of any source of ignition parts for the 400? Any solid state modules that would fit this saw?

Or, would I be better off to part this old saw out? It is in excellent condition and very straight.

Let me know what you Pioneer guys think...

Thanks in advance,
TFB
 
I've started tearing into the Pioneer 400 that I have got....

Compression feels excellent, but no spark.

Will I be able to find any parts for this saw? The only area that I am really worried about is ignition. If I can get this saw to fire, I think I can get it to run.
Does anyone know of any source of ignition parts for the 400? Any solid state modules that would fit this saw?

Or, would I be better off to part this old saw out? It is in excellent condition and very straight.

Let me know what you Pioneer guys think...

Thanks in advance,
TFB

I personally would not part it out as it is not hard to get a good one up and running if you can do the work yourself. The NOVA II module will run that saw if you really need it but most times just cleaning and setting the points will restore spark on the Pioneers. The point contacts must be clean and shiny to work correctly , set them at 0.022 and you should have spark if there is no other problems. Did you get any info from Lawrence? I read his post where he made an offer and just let it ride, I figured he would give you all the info he could on how to remove the flywheel and check all the ignition parts. If you need more info just ask and some of us will certainly help but not all of us are on every evening so some times it may seem like a long while before you get an answer.
Pioneerguy600
 
1073 sprocket

How do I get the sprocket off? Looks like I need some sort of special spanner wrench. What is the best way to stop it from rotating when doing this?:help:
 
How do I get the sprocket off? Looks like I need some sort of special spanner wrench. What is the best way to stop it from rotating when doing this?:help:

The clutch driver unscrews with left hand thread and a special tool was used by Pioneer, I made my own and use a battery impact driver to remove all the threaded clutches on all saws. You should remove the spark plug and insert some rope such as pull cord into the sparkplug hole to partially fill the cylinder, then the piston will come up and jam it stopping rotation. The piston should be half way up toward the top so that the rope does not get caught in the exhaust port before inserting any rope or cord, this really works on all chainsaws.
Pioneerguy600
 
I posted a few picts of a RA that I was stripping and rebuilding over the last couple of weeks and now here is the completed saw minus the chrome Pioneer logo that I still need to find to make it complete.

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