That sound is music to my ears Joe. Excellent job on the saw as usual.
Looking forward to taking some of the new treasures to this years shows
Pioneer chainsaws
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That sound is music to my ears Joe. Excellent job on the saw as usual.
Looking forward to taking some of the new treasures to this years shows
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Hello fellas. Just received a pair of 650s. Hoping that questions are allowed that may already been asked. What thread is the clutch nuts on the RA and 650s?
On the 650s the pot seal appears to be inside quite a ways. Is that normal?
How would the magneto be set on these saws? I presume they must use a 'master' of some sort?
Thanks in advance
Walter
On the 650s the pot seal appears to be inside quite a ways. Is that normal?
How would the magneto be set on these saws? I presume they must use a 'master' of some sort?
Thanks in advance
Walter
Check your inbox for some helpful documents.
As far as I can remember, the nuts are the opposite of most saws. LH on the flywheel and RH on the clutch. Someone else can give you a definite answer.
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you Tim, removed the flywheel and indeed it is LH. For the clutch will need a thin wall socket.
Cheers
Right hand on the clutch nut, 9/16 socket if I recall. You'll need a puller and small bolts to pull the spider. Don't try to pull against the drum as you'll break the bearing over the key. Allegedly, Pioneer made some late model splined clutches that just slide off. Everyone of that series for me has been straight keyed.
Chris B.
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you.
Cleaned points, set to .020 lubed felt and ignition is back together. Good spark
Will order a carb kit tomorrow.
New question, how to get good starter pal engagement on these F/M pull starters?
I cleaned and lubed the starter on one saw, cleaned and dried friction discs but starter no longer grabs in the flywheel cup. How do I proceed?
Walter
Cleaned points, set to .020 lubed felt and ignition is back together. Good spark
Will order a carb kit tomorrow.
New question, how to get good starter pal engagement on these F/M pull starters?
I cleaned and lubed the starter on one saw, cleaned and dried friction discs but starter no longer grabs in the flywheel cup. How do I proceed?
Walter
Take all the oil off. They don't like any oil.
As Tim suggested.
I haven't had one of those Pioneers apart. But, I have had success with other FM starters by blasting off the friction washers with carb cleaner. Rough them up with sand paper and put the assembly back together dry and completely oil-free. Sharpen the friction shoe plates while you are at it. If the cup is worn, the sharper edge on the shoe plate will help grab a bit better.
I haven't had one of those Pioneers apart. But, I have had success with other FM starters by blasting off the friction washers with carb cleaner. Rough them up with sand paper and put the assembly back together dry and completely oil-free. Sharpen the friction shoe plates while you are at it. If the cup is worn, the sharper edge on the shoe plate will help grab a bit better.
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Will do, it was working until I cleaned it! Groan......
Learning curve.
I did work in a saw shop for nearly a year when construction was slow. I had a great boss and wished I had paid more attention.
Wasn't interested in saws back then, hooked now.
Learning curve.
I did work in a saw shop for nearly a year when construction was slow. I had a great boss and wished I had paid more attention.
Wasn't interested in saws back then, hooked now.
I have a box of the washers (black ones) and the "clutch" washer (red ones with the slotted opening) if anyone needs some. I once ordered a few from NPA and they sent me a box of 100 of each.
Mark
Mark
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
If the cup is too severely worn, then even sharp pawls won't catch. I have made an insert on the lathe/mill and then heat shrunk it into the original cup to fix this on several saws.
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Ml12, that is brilliant. That is something I can do as well!
And, assemble it correctly. The 'magic fingers' should extend in a 1/4 turn of the pulley.
Do not oil the washers!
Shim the spring for max pressure if there is room.
Do not oil the washers!
Shim the spring for max pressure if there is room.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks! I go for about a 0.004"~0.006" interference fit. Pop the cup in the oven at 400 for 10 mins and the insert in the freezer for half an hour and they should just drop together.
You do have to open up the cup a bit to get the bore even. Be careful how thin you machine the cup though as it could crack when it contracts on the insert. I can't remember the size of the aluminum pipe I use, but it doesn't require any boring out of the ID. The OD has to be cut down quite a bit though. I use a 3/16" end mill to just touch the inside to create the divots.
I think Stihl had a similar type of cup insert on some of their older saws. I am pretty sure I have one in the drawer with other starter supplies.
Mark
Mark
The Pawl sharpe edge is 27 degrees, and stamped with a Bar and should be on side marked SE. lf edge to sharpe or cup surface to rough the pawls may catch in the cup.
Dull or 2 soaked fibre washers will cause slipping.
Dull or 2 soaked fibre washers will cause slipping.
The lgn Timing will usually be correct if marks on the stator and bearing housing are aligned. torque retaining nut to 25-30 Ft lbs torque
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Yes, the 041AV has a plastic insert, and the 090 a metal one, I bought a couple thinking I could use them in other applications but the dimensions aren't right iirc.
The 1111 series (050, 051, 075, 076) also used starter cups as did there cutoff saw brethren.
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