Pioneer chainsaws

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

Hay everyone . I see a few of you from other threads on here so here goes
I picked up a Pioneer p-42 last week put in fuel and oil, made a cut, ran fine.
Vac / press holds fine . Topped off tanks and ran one tank. All good
Got out to cut up an ash tree starter rope broke .
fixed the rope and cleaned under the cover ( what a mess ) I don't think it was ever removed.
Now the fun part.
No spark .... Cleaned behind the 2 part coil and put it back together
Ran it for 10 min. no trouble
Next day went to start it and no spark
I thought I had IPL well part # is 476339 Black ... This is not what I have.

This is what mine looks like

Now I have found half of this
I think the part # s are


Now first Test continuity test from coil to plug and no tone
Is there a way to change the plug wire ?
Will it unscrew ?
Do I just pull and see if it has a barb?
Will any old plug wire work if it can come out?

Found a coil on line ... only coil no wire ... So I think I will try wire first



Any input would be helpful
And what do you think about people saying to BAKE it at 250 Degrees for 2 hours ???
Anyone ever try this ?

 

[Hoggwood]

I think I have the same setup on my 41. If the flywheel polarity is the same as the wico/prestolites used on other saws of the era, you may be able to find and mount up an appropriate husqvarna coil. We have had good success with oem and aftermarket Husqvarna coils (fit 50 51 55 61 254 257 261 262 266 268 272 272XP Chainsaw, 503 90 14-01 & 544018401) to replace some of the applications of the infamous Prestolite blue coil. They work on xl-76/130, farmsaws and super-ez/xl-1 etc.

Don't know if you saw this thread awhile back http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-p61-no-spark.130254/#post-6018940. Perhaps the 365 could mount up as well.

I am leaning toward giving up on baking the coils. It is temporary at best, so it seems.

Tim (fossil) mounted up the husky 61 254 etc coil on a farmsaw. It ran, although about half of the coil stood proud of the flywheel. I know Pete (rocketnorton) was going to try one on another Farmsaw (?) or 41/42 - can't recall exactly.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The two piece ignition was found primarily on the P41, over the years I have never seen a two piece on a P42 so it may be a 41 with a 42 recoil on it. The round high tension coil is the most common to go ,pn#431307, the ignition module usually outlasts the high tension coil, ignition module is pn #430938.
I changed my post to use the names of the parts to match what Pioneer calls them in the repair manuals, I should have looked at the manual first before posting. Sorry for any confusion caused by my original post.

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

The two piece ignition was found primarily on the P41, over the years I have never seen a two piece on a P42 so it may be a 41 with a 42 recoil on it. The round firing part is the most common to go ,pn#431307, the coil itself usually outlast the firing switch, coil is pn #430938.

I found and ordered the 431307 will any plug wire push in or thread in ?

 

[pioneerguy600]

I found and ordered the 431307 will any plug wire push in or thread in ?

Push and twist, should put it down over the post in the hole.

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch coils have a threaded stud like a wood screw that the HT lead threads onto. I expect Pioneer are the same.

Mark

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

Can anyone ID


It is badge or I should say stickered p-42

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

Saw looks to be original paint inside and out

 

[Acornhill]

Frankenstein saw

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[farmer steve]

any info on this saw.. thanks

 

[fossil]

Can anyone ID
View attachment 577954

It is badge or I should say stickered p-42

A picture of the saw would be helpful

Saw looks to be original paint inside and out
View attachment 577961 View attachment 577962

Looks like a P42 to me. The ignition as Cory mentioned looks all P41. The label is weird. I couldn't find any reference to that PN so it's likely a PN for the finished saw.
Maybe there was some mix and match trying to use up inventory near the end of the Peterborough operation.

 

[Hoggwood]

any info on this saw.. thanks

That is a clean example. Hopefully it is not that way because of a failed ignition module. Unfortunately, the Prestolites equipped had a high failure rate. Either way, looking low hours.

4 cubes, reed valve. Strong. Closest sibling is the P-41. Farmsaw has a plastic starter cover and has a built in decompression feature that is actuated when starting. Those should always be in good working order. Can pull another 1/2' or so beyond the 18" they were equipped with.

I'd be all over that if the price were right.

 

[farmer steve]

That is a clean example. Hopefully it is not that way because of a failed ignition module. Unfortunately, the Prestolites equipped had a high failure rate. Either way, looking low hours.

4 cubes, reed valve. Strong. Closest sibling is the P-41. Farmsaw has a plastic starter cover and has a built in decompression feature that is actuated when starting. Those should always be in good working order. Can pull another 1/2' or so beyond the 18" they were equipped with.

I'd be all over that if the price were right.

thanks for the info. listed with a 20 inch bar.asking $125. are the modules for that saw hard to come by? thanks again.

 

[Acornhill]

They have replacement for them now

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[Lou]

@farmer steve, any info on this saw.. thanks

The weak point on this saw is the starter assembly, It is plastic/nylon.
Operating it without the automatic compression release is a really bad idea.
Allowing the starter rope to be extended while running is also a way to render it inoperable.
They are otherwise very reliable, with the exception of the presto ignition coil.
Read this thread and you'll find baking the coil, often provides at least a temporary repair.
Lou
I had to go to the garage and make sure mine was still there... Good looking saw.

 

[hillwilliam]

I would switch to full skip. There's so many chips being made in that long of a cut that they literally hold the bar out of the cut. I found that my cutters stayed sharper for longer when I switched to skip because the teeth can take 2x the bite. With the torque of these saws, they make tons of chips really fast and need the extra space afforded by the skip chain

Edit: I make my skip chain by cutting off every 3rd cutter. I like the woodland 43rp, but it only comes in super skip, so I buy comp and cut it down

I've only milled skinny logs so far, and the full-comp works fine for that and makes a pretty smooth cut. I could cut cutters off like you did, at least on one of my chains, if I mill anything bigger. Good idea.

I use full-skip on a 36" bar for 'normal' cross cutting, and I prefer semi-skip on shorter bars.

 

[p61 western]

Saw looks to be original paint inside and out
View attachment 577961 View attachment 577962

Whatever it is, I think it's a great looking saw. If you get tired of it let me know please.

 

[Walter Glover]

Thought the Pxx family was complete at my house! Oh no...... a nice P28 shows up in Vernon, BC. Bit of orchestrating and that saw is safely at a friends house in Salmon Arm. Should be picking it up late June if all goes well. Will post a pic soon.
Pioneers now: RA, 650, P61, P51, P41, P28 they just make an old guy smile!

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

I got my new coil installed last night on the p-42
All good now

 

[Acornhill]

I got my new coil installed last night on the p-42
All good now

Bad ass saw

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