Planning on replacing engine on log splitter

[Leever2000]

I have a 22 Ton Huskee Log splitter with a 6.5 HP B&S engine that seized this past year. Looking to replace engine and have a 5.5 HP B&S from a power washer. Can I use that engine and is there anything I would need to modify on the 5.5 HP B&S? Both are vertical shaft the only differences are the HP and the fact that the donor is from a pressure washer.

 

[saxman]

I have a 26 ton Brave splitter with a 8 HP Briggs Intek It is 11 years old and blowing blue smoke at times.
I'm going to repower with a Honda. Since you already have an engine that's the way to go for sure. I think it will be fine as long as it turns the same RPM.


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[Sawyer Rob]

Isn't there ANOTHER difference?

Doesn't you pressure waster motor have a tapered shaft?? If so, you will have to deal with that too.

SR

 

[muddstopper]

Most pressure washer engines I have seen do have a tapered shaft. There was a guy and ebay selling a taper adapter for around $10,, just have to search to see if they are still available.

 

[Dieseldash]

I'd throw a new Harbor Freight 6.5hp Predator on there I've had really good luck with them. Can't go wrong for $99. They run way better than the flat head brigs

 

[crowbuster]

Put a 6.5 hp Honda on my splitter 5-6 yr ago, it was from a pressure washer. Straight shaft, just had to cut an inch off of it.

 

[rarefish383]

Check the shafts and if they are the same, go with the one you have. If you want to spend the 99 dollars, go with the Predator. I had one on an old splitter. When I bought my new splitter, I left the old one down in the woods for a year and a half, before I decided to sell it. With old gas and all, I choked it, pulled 3-4 times and it fired right up. Always started no matter how cold. If the B&S on my Huskee ever goes, I'm putting a Predator on it, Joe.

 

[sb47]

I have a 22 Ton Huskee Log splitter with a 6.5 HP B&S engine that seized this past year. Looking to replace engine and have a 5.5 HP B&S from a power washer. Can I use that engine and is there anything I would need to modify on the 5.5 HP B&S? Both are vertical shaft the only differences are the HP and the fact that the donor is from a pressure washer.

I have the same splitter. The pull rope recoil rusted out and I had a motor that came off a power washer that looked like it would fit.
After mounting it I found the shaft was 1'' to short. So I robbed the pull starter off the washer motor and fixed the spliter motor.
As long as it bolts up and the shaft is the same it should work without any mods.
I could have cut the mounting bracket and re welded it to fit the new motor but I decided not to do that.
Harbor fright has a motor that will fit for $189.00. I will have to replace it at some point because the one thats on it is on it's last leg. It smokes and burns a lot of oil but it still works.
Check HF if your motor wont fit.

 

[Mntn Man]

I have the same splitter. The pull rope recoil rusted out and I had a motor that came off a power washer that looked like it would fit.
After mounting it I found the shaft was 1'' to short. So I robbed the pull starter off the washer motor and fixed the spliter motor.
As long as it bolts up and the shaft is the same it should work without any mods.
I could have cut the mounting bracket and re welded it to fit the new motor but I decided not to do that.

I have a power washer motor as well. I went to use my splitter last weekend and the gas tank had split so I robbed it off of the washer motor. I also noticed that the motor had a choke instead of a primer bulb so I am going to swap carbs as well. The bulb is getting bad and it is really cold blooded.

After I got it going, it was not working splitting the rounds. I could tell it had low pressure but high seemed to not be there. I thought it was the valve had gone bad but after replacing it, it was doing the same thing. I bought a gauge and capped the line. I do have plenty of pressure. I am pretty sure the cylinder has gone bad because I only get 500 lbs of pressure trying to split but if I hold the lever against the detent return I can get 1700 lbs. Has anyone tried to rebuild a cylinder? I haven't found the right kit but it has to be out there. I will ask the hydraulic shop for an estimate on Monday. New cylinders are about $200.

 

[sb47]

I have a power washer motor as well. I went to use my splitter last weekend and the gas tank had split so I robbed it off of the washer motor. I also noticed that the motor had a choke instead of a primer bulb so I am going to swap carbs as well. The bulb is getting bad and it is really cold blooded.

After I got it going, it was not working splitting the rounds. I could tell it had low pressure but high seemed to not be there. I thought it was the valve had gone bad but after replacing it, it was doing the same thing. I bought a gauge and capped the line. I do have plenty of pressure. I am pretty sure the cylinder has gone bad because I only get 500 lbs of pressure trying to split but if I hold the lever against the detent return I can get 1700 lbs. Has anyone tried to rebuild a cylinder? I haven't found the right kit but it has to be out there. I will ask the hydraulic shop for an estimate on Monday. New cylinders are about $200.

lol I robbed my pressure washer motor for several things to make the original splitter motor to keep it going.
Have you changed the hydrolic the filter lately?
What condition is the oil in?
Yes the internal seals can go out and cause it to lose pressure.
Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral.
If the seals are good the ram should not move. If it does the seals could be bad.
Most of the equipment I'm used to were where gravity will let you know if one is bleeding down. If it a small leak it may move very slowly and you have to force it to move. It's not going to move without some weight on it. Gravity is not going to work on a spliter like it does on heavy equipment.
The hydrolic pump may bed bad and not the ram.
I have not personally pulled a cylinder apart and tried to fix it. I always took them to a shop. I've seen them do it several times.
They do use specialize tools and machines though. Of course they also fix cylinders that blow the ends right off and re weld them and return the tubs and ram stems. I don't know how easy it is to just change seals.
Start with the simple cheap things first, then work your way through it.
Hope you getter goin again.

 

[Mntn Man]

Have you changed the hydrolic the filter lately?
What condition is the oil in?

New filter and the oil is synthetic 32 in great shape. Thanks for the suggestion about using a jack, I will try that tomorrow. It just irks me because I have just a little bit of wood ready to go and a cord and a half of ash to split. The last time I used it I didn't have any problems nor have I in the 10 years of service it's given me other that I sanded it down and repainted and new wheel bearings.

 

[aokpops]

While your at it . Hop this thing up get a bigger pump . I heard of people running a 16 gallon pump on a harbor freight 6 horse .

 

[Mntn Man]

That was the plan if the pump was shot but I am sure that isn't the problem. It has to be the ram unless the new valve has the same problem as the old one. I will turn up the low side to the max the motor will handle once I get it going. I played with it a little and I know that it can handle more than the factory default. I hope that will shorten the cycle some. I go about the speed of the splitter anyway, lol. Bad timing for me for the cost of a breakdown. I was looking forward to the low energy bills of winter to help catch up.

 

[Gugi47]

I have the exact splitter for years, never have any problem.
But I use only Mobil 1 10/20 synthetic oil from new.

 

[al-k]

DuroMax 7 HP Go Kart Log Splitter Gas Power Engine Motor - XP7HPE Electric Start on ebay for 180. I have a duromax 10k generator that works good. have about 200 hours on it.

 

[Mntn Man]

Put a new cylinder on it this evening and it lives! Thought I would split until I ran out of gas and I did, before it did, lol. No, it got dark on me, that's it. Now I need more hydraulic oil. I can see that it just has enough to fully extend the ram. It has 32 synthetic in it but I don't think I can get more of it for free. I will price the various options at work tomorrow.

 

[reddogrunner]

Harbor Freight motors are hard to beat too, although that sees a little late for this post. I put one on mine and its been working great for about a year with first pull starting each time. I also upgraded the pump from 11gpm to a 13gpm and can notice the difference in cycle time.

 

[muddstopper]

lol I robbed my pressure washer motor for several things to make the original splitter motor to keep it going.
Have you changed the hydrolic the filter lately?
What condition is the oil in?
Yes the internal seals can go out and cause it to lose pressure.
Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral.
If the seals are good the ram should not move. If it does the seals could be bad.
Most of the equipment I'm used to were where gravity will let you know if one is bleeding down. If it a small leak it may move very slowly and you have to force it to move. It's not going to move without some weight on it. Gravity is not going to work on a spliter like it does on heavy equipment.
The hydrolic pump may bed bad and not the ram.
I have not personally pulled a cylinder apart and tried to fix it. I always took them to a shop. I've seen them do it several times.
They do use specialize tools and machines though. Of course they also fix cylinders that blow the ends right off and re weld them and return the tubs and ram stems. I don't know how easy it is to just change seals.
Start with the simple cheap things first, then work your way through it.
Hope you getter goin again.

Since the Op has solved his problems, I want to comment on a few things you said.

"Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral."

Not going to work as a test. If your valve is 100% sealed, you wont be able to jack the cyl in, even if you removed the shaft seals completely. In order for the shaft to be forced into the cyl, there has to be someway for the oil volume that is equal to the shaft volume to be expelled from the cyl. If oil cant leave the cyl then the cyl cant be retracted, with a jack or other wise. If the cyl does manage to retract using the jack method, the problem is with the control valve and not with the cyl.

"Most of the equipment I'm used to were where gravity will let you know if one is bleeding down. If it a small leak it may move very slowly and you have to force it to move. It's not going to move without some weight on it."

See above reply, the same conditions apply as using a jack to force the cyl in. Again, problem is most likely a valve problem and not a cyl problem. It could also be a leaking fitting, pin hole in hose, not properly seating relief valve, etc. Point is, the cyl cannot retract unless there is a path for the oil that is being displaced by the rod, to escape. This would apply even if you remove the shaft seals completely.

 

[sb47]

Since the Op has solved his problems, I want to comment on a few things you said.

"Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral."

Not going to work as a test. If your valve is 100% sealed, you wont be able to jack the cyl in, even if you removed the shaft seals completely. In order for the shaft to be forced into the cyl, there has to be someway for the oil volume that is equal to the shaft volume to be expelled from the cyl. If oil cant leave the cyl then the cyl cant be retracted, with a jack or other wise. If the cyl does manage to retract using the jack method, the problem is with the control valve and not with the cyl.

"Most of the equipment I'm used to were where gravity will let you know if one is bleeding down. If it a small leak it may move very slowly and you have to force it to move. It's not going to move without some weight on it."

See above reply, the same conditions apply as using a jack to force the cyl in. Again, problem is most likely a valve problem and not a cyl problem. It could also be a leaking fitting, pin hole in hose, not properly seating relief valve, etc. Point is, the cyl cannot retract unless there is a path for the oil that is being displaced by the rod, to escape. This would apply even if you remove the shaft seals completely.

Sorry to disagree but I ran a Big John tree spade for 30+ years. I know for a fact that when the internal seals in the cylinder go bad, it can and will bleed down because of weight and gravity. It's not bleeding through the valve because replacing the cylinder or fixing the existing cylinder will fix the problem.
Been there done that many times. I personalty removed and or replaced many cylinders on many tree spades, back ho's, loaders, dump trucks, and I have seen many cylinders internal seals go bad.
Take the main lift cylinder from a tree spade for example. It's a push pull set up, meaning it has power in both directions (up or down)
If I lift a load and stop and put the valve in neutral. It should stay in that spot till I move it. If the seals start going bad it will bleed down instead of staying put. It bleeds down because there is a lot of weight pushing on it, causing the fluid to bleed past the internal seals. Replacing the lift cylinder fixes the problem. That tells me the leak was in the cylinder, not the hand valve.
Same goes with all of them. from the outrigger cylinders to the blade cylinders, gate cylinders, pad cylinders, tilt cylinders. They all work the same way.
Some cylinders like some on a fork lift are push only, meaning it only has power in one direction. Witch would push up only, gravity is used to pull the forks back down. Many tractors lift's are push only, meaning they only push up with no downward pushing power.

Wood splitters are push pull types but because there is no down force or weight to to force it in one direction or the other, you can't use gravity to let you know if one is bleeding through the internal seals.
So using a jack will help determine if the cylinder has internal leaks. It could very well be the hand valve, but 99% of the time it's in the cylinder.

 

[sb47]

Since the Op has solved his problems, I want to comment on a few things you said.

"Put the wedge about half way and shut it off. Then take a jack and see if you can make the ram move with the hand valve in nutral."

Not going to work as a test. If your valve is 100% sealed, you wont be able to jack the cyl in, even if you removed the shaft seals completely. In order for the shaft to be forced into the cyl, there has to be someway for the oil volume that is equal to the shaft volume to be expelled from the cyl. If oil cant leave the cyl then the cyl cant be retracted, with a jack or other wise. If the cyl does manage to retract using the jack method, the problem is with the control valve and not with the cyl.

"Most of the equipment I'm used to were where gravity will let you know if one is bleeding down. If it a small leak it may move very slowly and you have to force it to move. It's not going to move without some weight on it."

See above reply, the same conditions apply as using a jack to force the cyl in. Again, problem is most likely a valve problem and not a cyl problem. It could also be a leaking fitting, pin hole in hose, not properly seating relief valve, etc. Point is, the cyl cannot retract unless there is a path for the oil that is being displaced by the rod, to escape. This would apply even if you remove the shaft seals completely.

It also doesn't mean there is some other issue causing the problem. Low hydrolic pressure is a symptom of several possibility's.
I'm assuming he has checked for leaking hoses, fittings or any signs of oil leaking externally. Those are very obvious and easy to spot.
The only things left are the hand valve, witch can go bad but it doesn't usually lead to low hydrolic pressure.
That leaves the pump or the cylinder as the culprit.
Pumps do go bad and do cause low pressure, resulting in low power.
But water contaminated oil can do that as well. Same with foamy oil or oil filter getting stopped up.
He needs to check all of the above before replacing anything.
Both pump and cylinder leaks can come on slowly getting weaker or letting oil bypass seals until it becomes noticeable. Sometimes they can happen suddenly.

If it were me, I would test the cylinder first because I have a way to do that. (i.e. the jack method or gravity) If I still was not sure I would have the cylinder tested. If that's ok, then it almost surly is a pump or oil issue.