planning to start building a splitter !!

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Belt drives for a hydraulic pump will work for the 11 gpm pump with a small engine but with the larger pumps and engines the torque will cause slippage unless a tooth type belt is used. With the tooth type belt the Swisher type of clutch will not work.

On Monster garage a few years ago they tried to install a Timberwolf splitter in a vehicle using belt drives for the pump. The belts worked until they tried to build pressure, than the belts would slip and shred after a short amount of use. They determined that even using the largess practical pulleys and belts, the belts would fail in normal use.
 
Forgot that detail on the belts. Just guessing without looking @ machinerys handbook probably would have to run 3 A size or 2 B size belts on at least 4 inch pulleys. That setup is a lot of work and expense when you can drive it direct with a lovejoy coupler.
 
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i've been using vertical shaft engines since day one. took them off lawn tractors. the electric start made things perfect.

i began with an old twin 18hp briggs until that smoked. i then went to a 12.5hp kohler which is what i'm using now, pushing a 22 GPM pump.

i just acquired another newer 18hp briggs and i'll be installing that this winter.

the problem with that kind of technology is that it requires electronics. the technology is out there now and being used in some cars where the gas pedal sends electrical impulses to the injectors etc etc, but something has to process that information.

i think we're just doing some technological daydreaming here....all in fun.

Dont worry about cycle times as it only takes a couple of seconds for the clutch to engage the mating parts anyway to full rpm so no need for the whodooo voodoo soleniod parts.:chainsaw: :givebeer: :popcorn:
 
i have a 22 horsepower engine with a 30 gallon per minute pump.

a cord of wood takes about 2 gallons of gas to split, convey.

when the cylinders and hydraulic motors aren't moving, it takes almost no energy to push the hydraulics around.

Heck, teh electric starter motor with the little joke lawnmower battery I have spins the engine over really fast with the pump direct coupled.

How much money do you really think you would save???

Also, the pumps are NOT designed for sideloads. many don't even have bearings on the input sides. so, if you put a pulley on them, you will tear them up very quickly.
 
electric clutches can't take full hp if used in high cycling applications (slip to engage, run, then release). The sizing has to account for the heat dissipation. Zero turn mowers like my son's lesco have electric clutch on the vertical shaft 18 hp motor, would seem a perfect package to use it all. But that is designed to lock in then cool for minutes while mowing. under cylcing, may only take 1/4 that power before overheating.

If starting is an issue, I'd use a magnet stick on tank heater.
Just make the lines and valves big and reduce pressure drops.
I doubt you would save fuel enough to pay for clutch wear.

k
 
Also, the pumps are NOT designed for sideloads. many don't even have bearings on the input sides. so, if you put a pulley on them, you will tear them up very quickly.

amen.
 
If you want elec throttle control,? why fool with computers, Squaee D has the best pressure sencing switches, Not cheap but real good,...Eric

how do you get pressure without RPM's?

it appears that any clutch type set-up on a log splitter isn't feasible.
 
well i have more of my things for my splitter i have a
20 hp kohler
28 gpm pump
5x24 cylinder
2x12 cylinder
autocycle valve
single spool valve
20 gallon oil tank

gonna be on vacation until first of feburary
so its duck hunting in the day building splitter at night hope to have lots of pics of both duck progress and splitter progress!!
 

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