No I have been a commercial fisherman but suspect sailors are similar. The anchor is attached to a chain long enough and heavy enough so that it does not pick up at an angle. Then the line goes the rest of the way to the boat.
Pointed rakers
- Thread starter Terry Syd
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I understand that there are guys who work on a mahogany plantation; or only cut oak, or fir, or Christmas trees all day. If you have a couple of cords of birch to cut, or an orchard to prune, you can sharpen just for that. Otherwise, maybe you have to approach the forest like a game of golf: have a dozen or so saws, and a caddy, "Hand me my #7 oak faller."
I like Terry's idea of a self-adjusting chain. Maybe some brilliant Oregon or STIHL engineer can invent something, and send him some royalties.
Philbert
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
This is all too deep for me. I just set the drop to about 6 degrees, then profile the DG's back to their original shape and cut wood.
to trip the anchor you have to winch the anchor line and chain in until the tip, like a cutter in wood, no longer digs into the bottom. if your anchor line and/or chain is too short, the anchor won't hold. if the wind picks up, you let out more line. i suppose it's a stretch but to me it's analogous to a cutter and depth gauge.
i suppose so, but does that mean you're going to need several different trucks to deal with the soil at the job site?
Which one was faster?
super3
Addicted to ArboristSite
Poplar
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cannot really see much detail because of the device that I am using and my crappy eye sight but the first picture looks like most of the chains I see that have been DG adjusted, they work but not at all the optimal goal, basically a FOP ramp. The second picture with the taller thinner and what I think it looks like rounded DG is what I prefer.
As long as the gullet is clear and the pivot is smooth it'll work for me. In reality though most of the chains I use look like the first one cause it is easy and T stakes do not care what DGs look like.
At the end of the day day what the OP is suggesting will work but it will be fussy and time consuming to setup and rough on the equipment.
As long as the gullet is clear and the pivot is smooth it'll work for me. In reality though most of the chains I use look like the first one cause it is easy and T stakes do not care what DGs look like.
At the end of the day day what the OP is suggesting will work but it will be fussy and time consuming to setup and rough on the equipment.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is not going to take much of a bevel to accomplish what the OP is trying to accomplish, however any bevel will cause the chain to behave differently and create more wear as it is twisting side to side while rocking up and down. The top plate and side plate angle already cause this so adding more would make things worse however if it could be neutral or help negate some of the force that would be cool.
He will have to try it and see what he thinks, for that matter everybody that is curious should give it a whirl.
It will be easier to dial in on a 16" chain than a 36".
"OK. Your chain is dirty and almost used up.
Philbert"
nope, just broke in. i'm going with chain one. i like the rivets and the dg. i probably got it wrong though.
I think the first one was faster. I don't remember where both chains went now to tell any more. I do remember sending them both to different people.
here's my version of the "mature" chain. instead of square ground, it's sharpened with a timberline. the depth gauges are set on an oregon type grinder which accounts for their lack of flatness. i'd like to do a comparison of a hand-filed square ground to a timberline ground, both chains 72dl, with the same power head and bar.
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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I have the Timberline ............ hand filed square blows it away
we used to buy square ground .404 by the roll because that's what baileys had in stock. the first time it was sharpened it would transmogrify into round. the guys who use square in the pacific northwest mostly cut doug fir, i think. that stuff can be surprisingly hard, especially if it's old growth. i think one of the main advantages of square ground is that it is easier to hand file than round.
hand-filed what? edit: ignore i missed "square" in your post. i wish we could try a loop of your square chain against my timberline chain, same power head and bar, yourtube for a timer. not saying mine is faster or better but i do like empirical data.
