ETpilot
ArboristSite Operative
I like the idea of the towing hitch and the version 2 grapple. I may adopt your idea for towing the log splitter and trailer. I have a receiver tube I can use for the towing part. As for the grapple, like you, I designed one for my tractor. Made a cardboard and wood model. Then I gave thought to the hydraulics, the added valve, the hoses, grapple cylinder and cutting time and welding, and expense, and so I put the project aside. I still have my model somewhere. I may dig it up and see what I can do using your idea.
As for attaching your grapple to keep from slipping, see my picture. Use short chains welded to your grapple. Weld a heavy duty bolt with head cut off to the end link on the chain. Drill one or two holes to attach the bolt or weld a plate with the hole. Washer and nut keeps it all attached. Easy on easy off. That is how I attach my bucket forks. The center piece with the shackle I used for a hay spike I made years ago. Held in place by one chain. Now I use that point and shackle to move my wild feral hog trap. We have a hog problem here. Chain the trap down and tie it to the shackle. I move it in a 3 mile radius trapping for neighbors and my place too, when hogs are active.
As for attaching your grapple to keep from slipping, see my picture. Use short chains welded to your grapple. Weld a heavy duty bolt with head cut off to the end link on the chain. Drill one or two holes to attach the bolt or weld a plate with the hole. Washer and nut keeps it all attached. Easy on easy off. That is how I attach my bucket forks. The center piece with the shackle I used for a hay spike I made years ago. Held in place by one chain. Now I use that point and shackle to move my wild feral hog trap. We have a hog problem here. Chain the trap down and tie it to the shackle. I move it in a 3 mile radius trapping for neighbors and my place too, when hogs are active.
