Poulan 2000 Oiler is a Geyser.

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dougand3

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I have a Poulan 2000 with too much oil shooting out. Is the Check Valve Duckbill behind the screen probably blown open? Easiest fix is grind off collar, remove screen and install new duckbill?

IMG_20171211_213227.jpg IMG_20171211_213240.jpg
 
Tried to reproduce geyser today and no oiling. I did get the geyser with clutch down - so, that must have been the only orientation I looked in. Duh on me. So, I bet the U-shaped hose in the tank is broken near the exit hole and oil flows out fast when clutch down. Gotta get pump out w/o breaking it - it's cemented in there.
 
Got a new line from oil pump to discharge hole. Saw oiled a couple of squirts during 3 minute run but not fixed. Thought maybe it was tank vent but it's just a hole with half a cotter pin in it. Can't see it being trouble.
This hole in the check valve well - is it the path for pressure to oil tank?

Poulan 2000 oiler 1.jpg
 
I'll open up the check valve to examine duckbill.
You know, a worm gear mated with a nylon gear pump requires a whole lot less thinking than this puppy. LOL
 
I'll open up the check valve to examine duckbill.
You know, a worm gear mated with a nylon gear pump requires a whole lot less thinking than this puppy. LOL
I went through all the steps trying to repair mine and right now it just moves the bar oil a little bit and I've even thinned the oil down, still no luck. I have another saw just like it that does oil and I'm not touching that one!
 
I have 4 micro's in my fleet. One I bought new in 1981. ALL the oilers had died. One by one, I went through and redid the duckbill holders. While not conclusive... I found while doing a Pioneer Farm Saw fuel cap refurbish, that the mounting dimensions for the poulan and smaller homelite duck bills are the same. However the poulan duckbill lips are longer/wider and very likely flow more air then the smaller homelite item. I now use the poulan item when flowing impulse air.
I also surmised that all the duckbills died from having to deal with E-10 mix. This is just one more reason I refuse to use E-10 in any ODPE .
 
I went through and redid the duckbill holders.

After grinding collar lightly to get screen out, how did you re-secure screen? Or leave screen out? I can't tell if screen holds duckbill in place during impulse phase. Seems like that is why it's there.
 
After grinding collar lightly to get screen out, how did you re-secure screen? Or leave screen out? I can't tell if screen holds duckbill in place during impulse phase. Seems like that is why it's there.

I didn't feel the screen was critical for ? filtering fuel/air for the test. They seem OK so far.
The duckbill is held by the pressed in collar. I used a tap as a puller for the collar, though I forget the size-sorry.
Remove the old duckbill residue, clean body, install new valve, press collar back in to just nip the duck bill in place do not crush.... Assemble saw. Run saw.
Worked for me so far.
If the saw was to start to smoke a lot then a bit of grit may have gotten into the valve and letting bar oil backflow into the engine. Hasn't happened to me yet.
 
Success! Good I wasn't re-using screen cuz I was heavy handed on bench grinder and ZING. Duckbill was rough. New one fit snugly. 1st attempt - no oiling - I inserted duckbill vertical or perpendicular to exit hole, so rubber didn't block hole. Well, when bill opened and became round, I bet it blocked hole. I re-inserted db horizontal or parallel to hole - when db opens and becomes round, rubber pulls away from hole = success.
Thanks for all the help, guys.

poulan 2000 oiler 2.jpg poulan 2000 oiler 3.jpg
 

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