Poulan 2375le Cylinder

[Chuck Spitler]

I was gIfted with Wildthing 2375LE that needs a cylinder and piston. I am unable to find a model/serial number and or a TYPE version.
I have looked at 3 IPLs for Types -1-5, Type 6 and Type 7. From what I could glean from the IPLs was that there are 3 different cylinder part numbers 530012550, 530071412, and 530069607. From what I have been able to figure out is that the numbers are interchangeable and that the 530012550 will replace the cylinder for all 3. To that end I am seeing aftermarket kits that include piston, rings, bearings, seals and gaskets on Amazon. I am asking if anyone has experience with the 2375 cylinders and their differences....and any insights as to the overall quality of the aftermarket cylinder kits.

Thanks

Chuck



the 530012550 should be able to replace all of them

 

[Chuck Spitler]

I replaced the cylinder and piston. I am letting it sit for 24 hours before attempting to start it...giving the sealant a full day to set up. The kit I ordered came with bearings, seals and gaskets in addition to the cylinder, piston and rings. I had asked about the bearings and seals. I was concerned that they may have needed to be pressed off/on...Fortunately the bearings slip right onto the crankshaft...they do not have to be pressed on or off. The seals did need to be pressed on to the bearings though. I used an Arbor press that I have and a 7/8ths socket to press the seals over the bearings. seemed to work fine.

There was a small roller bearing in the kit for the connecting rod I assume. the existing bearing seems fine. I was not able the figure out how to separate the connecting rod from the crankshaft. I assume that the pin that goes into the counterweight has to be driven out in order to get the connecting rod off and the bearing replaced? Does anyone have any advice how to change the connecting rod bearing??

I am excited to check the saw out tomorrow and report how it all turns out

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Pic of bearing your talking about?

Yours will be like the left side ones.

 

[Old2stroke]

In the non-strato engines, there are actually only 2 sizes, a 35cc and a 42cc. The emission decal on the saw should tell which one your have but it doesn't really matter as every AM p/c replacement that I have seen is a 42cc and I have had really good luck with them. Only had one that had a impulse hole not drilled all the way through. NO ONE ever tries to replace the rod/crank bearing, the small bearing is for the piston pin.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

2175 wild thing is the 36cc one. Type 1-5 in 2175 then went 42cc later on its run.

I bought this one just to see. Measured bore and stroke and was 36cc one type 2 2175.

IMO 2375 best of the wild things.

 

[Old2stroke]

2175 wild thing is the 36cc one. Type 1-5 in 2175 then went 42cc later on its run.

I bought this one just to see. Measured bore and stroke and was 36cc one type 2 2175.

IMO 2375 best of the wild things.

So what makes it better than the rest?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

So what makes it better than the rest?

42cc non strato.

Strato one like the pic showed on right. IMO those things 4018 are turds compared to the 2375 non strato.

 

[Old2stroke]

42cc non strato.

Strato one like the pic showed on right. IMO those things 4018 are turds compared to the 2375 non strato.

OK. Got it. I thought all Wild Things were non-strato 42cc engines. Never seen the 4018WT and I agree with you about strato engines. Any of the non-strato saws would be better.

 

[Chuck Spitler]

Pic of bearing your talking about?

Yours will be like the left side ones.

Yes mine is like the one on the left. I got the new cylinder installed and did a vacuum check on it and it held 10 psi...I guess psi I was the scale on my vac pump's gauge. I removed the muffler and the carb and made rubber covers from some 1/8 th thick red rubber gasket material. I fabricated a barbed fitting to go into the spark plug hole and hooked a hose to it and the vac pump. I had never done this before and I was quite pleased that I was able to do a vac check and that the cylinder install went well. I checked it with a compression checked and it read 115 psi. I would have like to see a higher number but it is enough for it to run and it seems to run well.

It seems like the original owner may have subbed out the muffler. What I have is a one piece unit that does not come apart. It has a rectangular plate on top rear of the muffler that is held on with 2 screws below the plate is a spark arrester screen. Below the plate is a 1/4 inch hole and 2 very small holes on either side of the larger 1/4 inch hole in the center. The plate has a raised flap type opening in the top that the exhaust vents through. Also it looks like there is an additional muffler backing plate I assume that there should only be one...at least this is what the IPLs for all of the models show.
The muffler is held on with 2 bolts and there is a cover over the recessed bolt holes and a stud that comes out of the center and a small oval cover goes over that and is held on with a hex nut. One of the backing plates wraps around the top and one one side of the muffler the other is completely flat both seem to be made of thin aluminium sheet material. The one that wraps around the muffler looks what I see on the IPLs..where the 2nd one came from is a mystery.

Does this muffler sound familiar and correct to anyone? Is there something I am not understanding? Does the correct muffler for a 2375le vent from the top of the muffler or from the lower front? It just seems like the heat being generated by the muffler is too close to the blade brake lever and I am afraid that the heat is going to cause problems maybe melt the



I have read some posts about the 1/4 inch hole being to small and that the saw will run better with a larger exhaust hole?? I did enlarge the hole in the muffler to 3/8 the with a drill bit.

So what makes it better than the rest?

 

[scottr]

Yes mine is like the one on the left. I got the new cylinder installed and did a vacuum check on it and it held 10 psi...I guess psi I was the scale on my vac pump's gauge. I removed the muffler and the carb and made rubber covers from some 1/8 th thick red rubber gasket material. I fabricated a barbed fitting to go into the spark plug hole and hooked a hose to it and the vac pump. I had never done this before and I was quite pleased that I was able to do a vac check and that the cylinder install went well. I checked it with a compression checked and it read 115 psi. I would have like to see a higher number but it is enough for it to run and it seems to run well.

It seems like the original owner may have subbed out the muffler. What I have is a one piece unit that does not come apart. It has a rectangular plate on top rear of the muffler that is held on with 2 screws below the plate is a spark arrester screen. Below the plate is a 1/4 inch hole and 2 very small holes on either side of the larger 1/4 inch hole in the center. The plate has a raised flap type opening in the top that the exhaust vents through. Also it looks like there is an additional muffler backing plate I assume that there should only be one...at least this is what the IPLs for all of the models show.
The muffler is held on with 2 bolts and there is a cover over the recessed bolt holes and a stud that comes out of the center and a small oval cover goes over that and is held on with a hex nut. One of the backing plates wraps around the top and one one side of the muffler the other is completely flat both seem to be made of thin aluminium sheet material. The one that wraps around the muffler looks what I see on the IPLs..where the 2nd one came from is a mystery.

Does this muffler sound familiar and correct to anyone? Is there something I am not understanding? Does the correct muffler for a 2375le vent from the top of the muffler or from the lower front? It just seems like the heat being generated by the muffler is too close to the blade brake lever and I am afraid that the heat is going to cause problems maybe melt the



I have read some posts about the 1/4 inch hole being to small and that the saw will run better with a larger exhaust hole?? I did enlarge the hole in the muffler to 3/8 the with a drill bit.

Your muffler sounds like the muffler that came on my pp4620 except mine has a factory 0.40" diameter center hole with two 0.125" holes .

The additional muffler backing plate will guide more cooling air through the cylinder fins .

If you will drill the three outlet holes to be about 5/16" diameter (0.076 square inch) the outlet total area will be about 0.22 square inch area so your saw can breath .
Then you'll need to open up the louver plate.

Edit: want to add that Poulan and Poulan Pro have used the rear outlet mufflers with the rear muffler shield (deflector) for many models and they don't cause any brake flag or plastic heating problems .
The rear outlet black two piece muffler that the 2375 used with the aluminum muffler shield can easily be modified by tweeking the two rear louvers . The aluminum shield also attenuates the high pitch notes to make a low tone sound .

 

[Chuck Spitler]

Your muffler sounds like the muffler that came on my pp4620 except mine has a factory 0.40" diameter center hole with two 0.125" holes .

The additional muffler backing plate will guide more cooling air through the cylinder fins .

If you will drill the three outlet holes to be about 5/16" diameter (0.076 square inch) the outlet total area will be about 0.22 square inch area so your saw can breath .
Then you'll need to open up the louver plate.

Edit: want to add that Poulan and Poulan Pro have used the rear outlet mufflers with the rear muffler shield (deflector) for many models and they don't cause any brake flag or plastic heating problems .
The rear outlet black two piece muffler that the 2375 used with the aluminum muffler shield can easily be modified by tweeking the two rear louvers . The aluminum shield also attenuates the high pitch notes to make a low tone sound .

How do you recommend I open up the louver plate...how big to enlarge the opening to? Drill additional hole (s) into the plate? I wondered about the louver plate opening. I drilled out the center hole in the muffler to 3/8ths...how would that extra capacity be impacted by the size ofF the opening in the louver. I don't see how a 2nd muffler backing place improves airflow...it seems like the actually block air flow on the muffler side? If you can shed any light on this it would be greatly appreciated

I am attaching 4 photos the 3rd and 4th photos are of the back plates ..the 3rd is the one I think is extra. The finger that sticks up on the plate goes on the starter side and it actually appears to have melted a small hole through but top cover (air filter carb and spark plug cover) The louver cover is installed in the photo of course , but I did remove it and drill the center hole out to 3/8ths. I did not do anything with to 2 small holes. Since I drilled it out to 3/8ths would something smaller than 5/16 for the 2 small holes make sense? Maybe 1/4?? Not sure if too much exhaust could cause a problem

I really am grateful for your help!
Chuck

 

[scottr]

How do you recommend I open up the louver plate...how big to enlarge the opening to? Drill additional hole (s) into the plate? I wondered about the louver plate opening. I drilled out the center hole in the muffler to 3/8ths...how would that extra capacity be impacted by the size ofF the opening in the louver. I don't see how a 2nd muffler backing place improves airflow...it seems like the actually block air flow on the muffler side? If you can shed any light on this it would be greatly appreciated

I am attaching 4 photos the 3rd and 4th photos are of the back plates ..the 3rd is the one I think is extra. The finger that sticks up on the plate goes on the starter side and it actually appears to have melted a small hole through but top cover (air filter carb and spark plug cover) The louver cover is installed in the photo of course , but I did remove it and drill the center hole out to 3/8ths. I did not do anything with to 2 small holes. Since I drilled it out to 3/8ths would something smaller than 5/16 for the 2 small holes make sense? Maybe 1/4?? Not sure if too much exhaust could cause a problem

I really am grateful for your help!
Chuck

Hello Chuck , your pictures show that you have the same muffler that the PP262 has with the heavy catalytic cage .When I private messaged you I thought you had the older aluminized muffler that had the 1/4" outlet on the back left side of the muffler . Later you mentioned the 1/4" hole was in the rear middle but I thought of the PP4620 non catalytic muffler .
Your muffler needs to be opened at the seam to separate the front so the catalytic cage can be removed .
I have opened my PP262 muffler by filing the seam off to see what was inside and if I had the choice I would buy a pre epa Poulan non catalytic muffler for your saw that is easier to modify and quieter once modified .
To answer some of your questions , the smaller plate next to the cylinder fins helps the cooling fan air to be directed through the fins on the front of the cylinder and helps to keep the radiated heat from the cat muffler away from the cylinder .
To get more flow through the louver plate I would cut out a 1/4" by 1/2" area forward of the louver then I would make another louver and 1/4" by 1/2" on the right side of the louver plate .
The louver opening would need to flow more exhaust if the muffler outlet is increased to flow more exhaust .
A 3/8" hole and two 5/16" holes would be 0.262 square inch outlet which would be good .

Scott

 

[Pioneer]

On my 2375 I filled in the old exhaust and vented the mounting tubes to exit out the front.
Of course I ditched the cat cage as well.


l.

 

[scottr]

On my 2375 I filled in the old exhaust and vented the mounting tubes to exit out the front.
Of course I ditched the cat cage as well.


l.View attachment 1156515View attachment 1156516

Did you also ditch the diffuser ?

 

[Pioneer]

Yes, the muffler was gutted with only the slits in the tubes acting as a sort of baffle.

 

[thompsoncustom]

You can drill a hole right through the center of the muffler and the saw will still not be all that loud not the best way just the quick and dirty option.