Poulan S25DA - can't keep the chain tension correct

[JoshRountree]

I'm not sure what's up with this thing, I bought a new sprocket/clutch drum and it still does it. I have to set the chain really loose, then it'll tighten up so hard it won't spin. Check out the picture I attached, I think there is too much play between the screw and the nut, should I tighten the nut down real good?

View attachment 249341

 

[hangfirew8]

I'm not sure what's up with this thing, I bought a new sprocket/clutch drum and it still does it. I have to set the chain really loose, then it'll tighten up so hard it won't spin. Check out the picture I attached, I think there is too much play between the screw and the nut, should I tighten the nut down real good?

I have a different model old Poulan, but have two thoughts:

1. Do you have the shims that go on either side of the bar?
2. Is there a separate lockdown nut to secure the tension adjuster?

HF

 

[JoshRountree]

I stole this picture from someone else on here, but mine is exactly the same.

Yes - I do have the bar plate guides, but no lock down nut.

I can turn the screw head on the right until the chain is where I want it, but it seems like there is play from the nut on the left, and when I'm cutting the bar pushes forward the amount of play that is in the nut. I have tightened the nut down, but it still isn't perfect, and if I tighten it down all the way I won't be able to adjust the bar.

Does that make sense.

 

[adhermo]

I have the same saw. When I had the same problem, I found that the adjuster screw was bent. I took the screw out and straightened it until I could get a new screw. Fixed the problem.

 

[hangfirew8]

I stole this picture from someone else on here, but mine is exactly the same.

Yes - I do have the bar plate guides, but no lock down nut.

I can turn the screw head on the right until the chain is where I want it, but it seems like there is play from the nut on the left, and when I'm cutting the bar pushes forward the amount of play that is in the nut. I have tightened the nut down, but it still isn't perfect, and if I tighten it down all the way I won't be able to adjust the bar.

Does that make sense.

Makes sense. I'm wondering if your bar is a proper match.

It would be really nice if you posted your own pictures...

HF

 

[JoshRountree]

I have the same saw. When I had the same problem, I found that the adjuster screw was bent. I took the screw out and straightened it until I could get a new screw. Fixed the problem.

hmmm, my screw is bent!

 

[kevin j]

the adjusting screw should not be holding much when the bar nuts get tightened. Make sure you are tensioning the chain in the tightening direction. If you go too tight, loosen way up and approach again in the tightening direciton. And make sure the bar tip is lifted up to take up the slack when you tighten it. Just rest the tip on a long, weight of saw down, and tightern chain, then tighten bar nuts.

edit: explain how it tightens up: in use over time, or just in moving the chain by hand a few pitches? Do you have the right chain/sprocket/bar tip sprocket pitches all matching? Check them all, don't depend on what you think the dealer gave you or what the part number says.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I stole this picture from someone else on here, but mine is exactly the same.

Yes - I do have the bar plate guides, but no lock down nut.

I can turn the screw head on the right until the chain is where I want it, but it seems like there is play from the nut on the left, and when I'm cutting the bar pushes forward the amount of play that is in the nut. I have tightened the nut down, but it still isn't perfect, and if I tighten it down all the way I won't be able to adjust the bar.

Does that make sense.

The only reason that lock nut is needed is to keep the screw from moving out of the saw when releasing tension on it.

Are you sure your oiler is working?

 

[stubnail67]

hmmmmmm

you sure you dont have the wrong chain and sproket match up they come in 1/4 and 3/8s show us a pic of your spur ... how many links is the chain..... push the oil button to see if its oiling thats simple.....ive bought alot of saws where the had the wrong spur and chain if its loose you should be able to pull it around by hand if it get locked up its wrong combo....... [post pics of your chain and your spur or rim.....

 

[joe25DA]

The only reason that lock nut is needed is to keep the screw from moving out of the saw when releasing tension on it.

Are you sure your oiler is working?

Exactly what I was thinking. id run that saw with the clutch cover off to see if the auto oiler is working.
Thats a nice saw by the way, and my JB welded stud is holding up good, my cousin uses that saw quite a bit.

 

[Miles86]

This is what happened to my 2300cva, the oiler stopped working and then the chain would get super tight?? and the day was over. I was too inexperienced at the time to realize what was happening so I sold the Poulan and bought a Stihl 440 + small echo then the CAD started.

 

[JoshRountree]

I'm stumped, I think the oiler works fine. I can pump the manual oiler 4-5 times while running and it will come out fine.

I took a whole bunch of pictures this morning.

I recently bought a new sprocket and chain for this saw, but used the bar that came with the saw when I got it. I assumed it would work. There are 8 teeth at the end of the bar - I didn't think that mattered, my 3400 has like 10 and the chain on it works fine. I thought that only matter on roller noses?

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[JoshRountree]

More Pictures

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[stubnail67]

3/8

More Pictures

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what size spur /sproket was it it should say on it ... i cant tell with out seeing the teeth.....some of the others maybe can.... if your manual oiler is workin it should shoot out in a huge squirt with clutch cover off... and dribbble while its running if the auto is working higher you rev more oil....take it off and lets see if its 3/8 or 1/4 i just cant tell with out seeing the teeth.... also the end of your bar dont look to hot they can lock up make sure it spins easy...

 

[stubnail67]

hmmm

also it dont look like much oil few pumps you should have plenty.... others maybe on to somthing ... you said it oiled well right?

 

[JoshRountree]

I bought these from Bailey's

I recently bought new chain/sprocket from Bailey's for this one:

Bailey's - 16" WoodlandPro Chainsaw Chain Loop
Bailey's - Oregon Consumer Spur Sprocket for Poulan S25 Chainsaw

I'm going to try lifting the bar when I tighten it, I think that might have something to do with it.

 

[stubnail67]

ya got me

I recently bought new chain/sprocket from Bailey's for this one:

Bailey's - 16" WoodlandPro Chainsaw Chain Loop
Bailey's - Oregon Consumer Spur Sprocket for Poulan S25 Chainsaw

I'm going to try lifting the bar when I tighten it, I think that might have something to do with it.

ya got me..the older ones had a bushing not a bearing i doubt that has anything to do with it.. i dont think a micro one would even fit the shaft ....better try joe mark or redunshee 67 mustang knows them also...

 

[stubnail67]

hmmmm

ya got me..the older ones had a bushing not a bearing i doubt that has anything to do with it.. i dont think a micro one would even fit the shaft ....better try joe mark or redunshee 67 mustang knows them also...

yep that looks right so you can rule all that out.....

 

[redunshee]

I'm going with oiler issues. auto oiler is impulse driven thus it is possible for the manual oiler to work while the auto oiler isn't. Also it is important to lift bar while tensioning chain. Not doing so will cause the bar to move upward when you cut and tighten the chain.
Bob

 

[dynodave]

Going thru this also

opcorn:

Just picked up my "new" S25DA sunday-needs chain/sprocket also....S25DA has .4375" (7/16) bearing/shaft. Poulan bearing was bronze, oregon 28006 is needle

microXXV .406" (13/32)
2150 .3937" (10mm)