Proper positioning for cutting big wood while on spurs.

[truestory]

Hi everybody, heres my issue, i am having trouble finding the right position and order to make good notches while cutting big sections of wood when doing removals with spurs. For the larger sections of the tree we use a Husky 353 with a 18inch plate. My problem is always when the tree is larger then the bar. I can never seem to find the right position to get my notch right, mostly because i cant see what im cutting on the other side becouse the tree is to wide. So i know that a solution would be to get a bigger saw with a longer bar, but im not the one in charge of the expense account.... Any experienced guys out there have any pointers. Im really trying to put emphasis on safe positioning. Thank you.

 

[treeclimber101]

I worry about you now ..... After reading that I worry about you be safe !

 

[truestory]

Lol, thanks for your concern... I havent had any problems in 5 years of work... So i dont think you need lose sleep over it. I just keep thinking that there are always better ways of doing things so im looking for pointers from more experienced and skilled climbers. Ergonomics and efficiency are what im looking to improve on. Thanks.

 

[jefflovstrom]

Scar the bark where you can see it when you re-position.
Jeff

 

[beastmaster]

I stand in front of the pie cut, but off to the side a little bit with one leg higher then the other. I sight one side and do the cut. Then as I go to the other side I try to keep the saw in the cut and I continue my face cut, using the same "sight" which should get me pretty close. I do my bottom cut first, its easier to line up the two streight cuts then the angled one. At lest for me.
I've doubled cut some big wood using 066's and 084's high up in some big conifers, its a pain on big trees because you have to change sides each time you adjust the cut.
One thing about taking big tops and pieces is there isn't anywhere to run if something goes wrong. You have to do it right.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

There isn't anywhere to run with small tops either!

 

[beastmaster]

There isn't anywhere to run with small tops either!

Small ones i just bounce off my helmet.

 

[rtsims]

I agree, but I would rather dodge a 6" top than a 24" top. I haven't done either, and they would both suck. So make sure you know what your doing before you do it.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

Small ones i just bounce off my helmet.

That is because there was no place to run.
I don't get high enough, to where they are small enough, to bounce off my helmet. Even the smaller tops I have taken, have my attention as they go over. The bigger ones make me hold on with both hands.

 

[beastmaster]

Watching a big top as it starts to go in almost slow motion at eye level and only a couple feet a way is both a exhilarating and scary thing. I like when the cut closes and that big piece of wood gently(sometimes not so gently)kicks off into space. Now that is a E ticket ride.
I have a friend who has lots of experience in trees. A 10 ft, 6 inch dia. top he was catching fell the wrong way and broke his collar bone and arm. Even the small ones can bite.

 

[bootboy]

I don't do a ton of topping but what I have noticed is when I'm blocking down med-big wood. I don't always make both cuts from one position. And sometimes my position will be different for the same cut. I will even reposition halfway through a face cut on big wood (>18")
I like to choke my climbing line around the trunk in a way that lets me get a good lean to the side without my lanyard spinning. It's common for me to have one foot higher than the other. I'm more relaxed if my knees aren't both locked out. My approach also changes with the saw I'm using. I position my self differently when blocking down wood with my MS460 than I do with a top handle saw.

So my advice would be, take the time to try different positions and cut from where you are most comfortable (while still considering safety). It doesn't have to be the same every time, but you'll likely get a feel for how you cut best after some experimentation.

Best of luck and be safe

 

[Greener]

Hi everybody, heres my issue, i am having trouble finding the right position and order to make good notches while cutting big sections of wood when doing removals with spurs. For the larger sections of the tree we use a Husky 353 with a 18inch plate. My problem is always when the tree is larger then the bar. I can never seem to find the right position to get my notch right, mostly because i cant see what im cutting on the other side becouse the tree is to wide. So i know that a solution would be to get a bigger saw with a longer bar, but im not the one in charge of the expense account.... Any experienced guys out there have any pointers. Im really trying to put emphasis on safe positioning. Thank you.

First of all, you always have to reposition when the diameter of the wood is bigger than the bar length. Otherwise you risk having less precise cuts, which can be fatal when off the ground. Someone else here said they are in front of, and a bit to the side of, the face cut when completing it. This is good practice. You can decide which direction to move-right or left-as you go. I would suggest using the biggest bar possible whenever you can when cutting big wood. If you miss on the face cut the first time, you can clean it up; much more easily than you can recover from a chunk going the wrong direction-or worse, on top of you. Another tip: if your groundie is pulling the pieces with a rope and you're not free falling it, you can do a relatively smaller face cut. As long as the outside edges of the apex (where the two face cuts meet) has equal distance from each side of the trunk, and it spans across the majority of the trunk face, then you're good. Just keep the hinge wood to a minimum in this case. Also, tell your budget guy that if your outfit willl be cutting bigger wood often, it is worth the larger cc's and bar for safety and precision. Good luck, and just make sure the cut is good. Don't cheat.
Colby

 

[imagineero]

You've had some pretty good advice already, but I can't imagine it's really big wood with a saw that size. There's no magic trick to making a good notch, it takes practice. Once you've got it, it's no big deal to make a face from both sides without even looking where the saw is going. A good start is to leave yourself some slack on your flipline, being further out from the tree lets you see a little more. I like to make the gun from the left, and if doing a humboldt will also do the pie cut form the left. If I'm doing a conventional then I'll generally spur around the back of the tree to the other side for the pie cut. I usually prefer to make the back cut from the right also.

One trick perhaps worth knowing is to carry a few sticks with you, or pull them off branches if they're handy in the tree. Choose longer sticks, about the diameter of your chain kerf. After you've made the gun, pop a stick in each side where the cut ends. From the far side, you can easily see the stick which gives you something to aim for. I still use this trick when doing big notches (5'+) on the ground. I rarely have to tidy up a face when using this, it gets you plenty accurate.

 

[beastmaster]

I like that stick trick. What works for me is I first clean out the cut with my saw, popping the throttle a few times, then I get at eye leval and sight down the cut with the saw aiming for the other side. Better to come up a little short then long. You can fix a short miss,but if you cut past the bottom cut you have to probably recut the other side too. Holding wood is really important.
As you get more experienced, you'll be able to adjust the angle of your face cut and make those pieces land flat, and laid out next to each other on the ground. I often use a jump cut when I need to get some distance with a top or long piece. I cut a deep narrow face cut, and have the top pulled hard and fast, and that top will sail.

 

[beastmaster]

You guys know I was jokeing about bouncing them off my helmet right?

 

[VA-Sawyer]

You guys know I was jokeing about bouncing them off my helmet right?

Nope, we figured it explained a lot.

 

[imagineero]

I bite them on the way past. Saves chipping them later.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

This thread needs to be moved to the commercial forum........bouncing tops off the helmet, and/or biting them as they go by, are for use by Professional tree guys only.

 

[imagineero]

New guys gotta start somewhere too. I'm not saying they ought to take bite, just maybe a nibble every now and then if the opportunity arises.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

Get them on a high fiber diet early?