pull rope 192t
- Thread starter treeman75
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could be a broken spring take it apart and look at it.
Yeah, get rid of the 192 and get a real saw!
Jeff
Jeff
good move there I love the ms 200ts.
Well, it is a crap saw, but your starter spring needs to be replaced and it will soon after that. Cheap fix. Still, crap saw.
Jeff
Jeff
UnityArborist
ArboristSite Member
Don't listen to the ms-192 trolls
I have run a ms-192t as my primary saw for over 3 years. It is a great saw and I have no complaints. I have run ms-200t's that were under powered and more fickle than either of my two ms-192t's. The only major repair I have done on the saw was to replace the starter spring. I think it was $60. Get it fixed and enjoy the lighter weight and better balance of the ms-192t.
Now everyone knows the ms-200 is a bigger saw and that is a fact. It is going to far to call the ms-192 crap over and over again. There are hundreds of trees around Eugene OR that have fallen by my so called 'crap saw.' The ms-192 out performs every other climbing saw on the market. From Husky to Echo to Johnsred the ms-192 takes them all.
Don't listen to the trolls
:notrolls2:
I have run a ms-192t as my primary saw for over 3 years. It is a great saw and I have no complaints. I have run ms-200t's that were under powered and more fickle than either of my two ms-192t's. The only major repair I have done on the saw was to replace the starter spring. I think it was $60. Get it fixed and enjoy the lighter weight and better balance of the ms-192t.
Now everyone knows the ms-200 is a bigger saw and that is a fact. It is going to far to call the ms-192 crap over and over again. There are hundreds of trees around Eugene OR that have fallen by my so called 'crap saw.' The ms-192 out performs every other climbing saw on the market. From Husky to Echo to Johnsred the ms-192 takes them all.
Don't listen to the trolls
:notrolls2:
you think it outperforms the ms 200t if so I think something is wrong with your ms 200t
treeman75
Addicted to ArboristSite
I dont have any complaints on the 192, the 200 does out perform it. When I bought the 192 I had them throw in the metal dogs. I will take it apart and see if I can tighten the spring. I took three 019t in to see if I can get two working. I know they are heavier but seem like they have more power than the 200.
:monkey:bull####!
UnityArborist
ArboristSite Member
What I was implying was that besides the ms-200, the ms-192 is a better saw then most other climbing saws on the market.
200-t idiots
The question was not which saw to use, it was "how to fix". Not everyone is going to use a 200-t, and if you guys had a brain, you would hope that all your competition doesn't. So quit picking a fight every time any other climbing saw is mentioned. Geez! You would thing the guy insulted your mother by mentioning using a different model saw in a tree.
Like as if the 200t has any different pull rope repair than a 192. I never tried it, but I'll bet many of the parts are the same.
****************************************************************************
In general, all pull rope repair work the same way. Regardless of whether the spring fits in a metal canister, or just loose in the pull rope housing, they all get wound in with a similar method.
1. The spring should be wound up on the rope spool inside the case by turning the spool by hand until it is tight against the spring, so that it cannot be wound any further. At this point, if the rope is attached to the spool, you should have been passing it around the outside of the spool (in the little notch on the spool that allows the rope to slip between the housing and the spool) so that it has no wraps on the spool at all. Some people like to wind up the spring and then feed the string through the holes. Either way works, but most models are made to start with the rope knotted into the spool.
2. Back off the rotation on the spool at least one whole turn. This will assure that the spring cannot be "bottomed out" when the rope is pulled to the end. If this is not done, you will ruin the spring the first time some numbskull yanks the rope to the end. This is also a likely cause of your problem, since your original post mentions pulling the rope to the bottom. Properly installed, pulling to the end of the rope usually does no damage.
3. [Still holding the spool in "one rotation short of tight] Thread the rope through the hole in the spool and out the housing or make sure that the rope does not have ANY wraps around the spool. AT this point you should be able to hold the end of the rope, pulled all the way out, and still be able to rotate the spool another 1/2 turn tighter by hand, winding up the rope in the wrong direction. You do this step just to make sure that you are not "bottoming out" the spring inside the housing.
4. Allow the spring to wind in as much rope as the spool will hold. Assuming you have the right size rope, this will be plenty of length to start the saw with.
5. Install the handle onto the rope where it all rolls in the starter housing. Don't cut off the excess rope until you have tested it a few times.
The question was not which saw to use, it was "how to fix". Not everyone is going to use a 200-t, and if you guys had a brain, you would hope that all your competition doesn't. So quit picking a fight every time any other climbing saw is mentioned. Geez! You would thing the guy insulted your mother by mentioning using a different model saw in a tree.
Like as if the 200t has any different pull rope repair than a 192. I never tried it, but I'll bet many of the parts are the same.
****************************************************************************
In general, all pull rope repair work the same way. Regardless of whether the spring fits in a metal canister, or just loose in the pull rope housing, they all get wound in with a similar method.
1. The spring should be wound up on the rope spool inside the case by turning the spool by hand until it is tight against the spring, so that it cannot be wound any further. At this point, if the rope is attached to the spool, you should have been passing it around the outside of the spool (in the little notch on the spool that allows the rope to slip between the housing and the spool) so that it has no wraps on the spool at all. Some people like to wind up the spring and then feed the string through the holes. Either way works, but most models are made to start with the rope knotted into the spool.
2. Back off the rotation on the spool at least one whole turn. This will assure that the spring cannot be "bottomed out" when the rope is pulled to the end. If this is not done, you will ruin the spring the first time some numbskull yanks the rope to the end. This is also a likely cause of your problem, since your original post mentions pulling the rope to the bottom. Properly installed, pulling to the end of the rope usually does no damage.
3. [Still holding the spool in "one rotation short of tight] Thread the rope through the hole in the spool and out the housing or make sure that the rope does not have ANY wraps around the spool. AT this point you should be able to hold the end of the rope, pulled all the way out, and still be able to rotate the spool another 1/2 turn tighter by hand, winding up the rope in the wrong direction. You do this step just to make sure that you are not "bottoming out" the spring inside the housing.
4. Allow the spring to wind in as much rope as the spool will hold. Assuming you have the right size rope, this will be plenty of length to start the saw with.
5. Install the handle onto the rope where it all rolls in the starter housing. Don't cut off the excess rope until you have tested it a few times.
Last edited:
You "Shirley" don't get it!
Jeff
Jeff
treeman75
Addicted to ArboristSite
That is what I was wanting to know. Thank you
treeman75
Addicted to ArboristSite
and dont call him shirley!
The 192 is not a climbing saw unless you cant afford the 200. It is a crap saw. Like a Bic lighter, use it some amd throw it away.
Jeff
Jeff
By that standard, I suppose that that the only road touring car anyone should drive is a Maserati, right?
I'm guessing that you never climb a tree with a bigger saw than 200t, or that you ever use a hand saw, pole pruner, or a power-pruner either, eh?
I'm guessing that you never climb a tree with a bigger saw than 200t, or that you ever use a hand saw, pole pruner, or a power-pruner either, eh?
ozzy42
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't know why all the bed rep on the 192.
Both the 192 and 200 are good saws.Just happens the 200 is a tad more
displacement ,therefore a tad more power.No surprise there.:monkey:
I climb with a 200 for the extra grunt,but have 2 192s as they are great little saws.
However ,price wise the lil saw has more bang for the buck.
200 cost almost twice as much,but only 10 15 % more power.
It's ok to brag about saws and everything but,are we not in the business to be efficient thru both work practices ,and $$ management skills.
BTW,There is one little thing that can be done with the 192 that you cant do with the 200.
FWIW, I tune my 192s a bit on the lean side,and then compensate with the choke ever so partly closed.It makes for being able to fine tune the saw as the tempeture changes.Some may disagree with this method ,but I have never melted one down doing this,and both of them run great.
Both the 192 and 200 are good saws.Just happens the 200 is a tad more
displacement ,therefore a tad more power.No surprise there.:monkey:
I climb with a 200 for the extra grunt,but have 2 192s as they are great little saws.
However ,price wise the lil saw has more bang for the buck.
200 cost almost twice as much,but only 10 15 % more power.
It's ok to brag about saws and everything but,are we not in the business to be efficient thru both work practices ,and $$ management skills.
BTW,There is one little thing that can be done with the 192 that you cant do with the 200.
FWIW, I tune my 192s a bit on the lean side,and then compensate with the choke ever so partly closed.It makes for being able to fine tune the saw as the tempeture changes.Some may disagree with this method ,but I have never melted one down doing this,and both of them run great.
fishercat
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have both saws.
I use the 192 80% of the time if not more. Both are great saws and better than any other climbing saws out there.
the 192 really wakes up with a carb adjustment.even more so with a muffler mod.
I use the 192 80% of the time if not more. Both are great saws and better than any other climbing saws out there.
the 192 really wakes up with a carb adjustment.even more so with a muffler mod.
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