Quick Porting question-please advise

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greenlantern412

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Hi, I just bought a nice used Husky 371xp. The front of the muffler has a plate that runs across it and bolts down. Can I simply take the plate off, drill a 3/8 inch hole through the muffler AND the plate, put a screen over the muffler hole, and then bolt the plate back over it holding the screen in place? It looks like thats what one guy did but I want to make sure I didnt miss a step. If thats possible, will that help this saw? Thank you.
 
Hi, I just bought a nice used Husky 371xp. The front of the muffler has a plate that runs across it and bolts down. Can I simply take the plate off, drill a 3/8 inch hole through the muffler AND the plate, put a screen over the muffler hole, and then bolt the plate back over it holding the screen in place? It looks like thats what one guy did but I want to make sure I didnt miss a step. If thats possible, will that help this saw? Thank you.

Yes, that'll work. Make sure to readjust the carb.
 
It's an easy and frequently done method. 3/8 inch hole is not enough IMHO, but a place to start. It does direct the exhaust right on the log to could be a fire hazard in real dry conditions. If you have dawgs on the saw likely keeps enough room between outlet and log not to obstruct the outlet.
 
Easy fix if you go too big
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I have used that style muffler on my saws for a few years and I have never seen the bark on the wood get hot enough to cause a problem. The saw isn't at one place long enough to set the bark on fire. If you set the bark on fire, you better learn how to file a chain.
Wade
 
Thats what I thought too...:monkey: But I did manage one time cutting a ~24 inch log with 066 and got some dry moss on the log glowing pretty good in just a couple seconds. Yep chain was sharp, square filed and pulling 10 hp or a little better from the saw.
 
I have used that style muffler on my saws for a few years and I have never seen the bark on the wood get hot enough to cause a problem. The saw isn't at one place long enough to set the bark on fire. If you set the bark on fire, you better learn how to file a chain.
Wade

Ah, Dan Henry, how ball less of you to post under an alias. Fact of the matter is cutting hemlock snags, the bark lights right up, it also louder than it needs to be with that method of muffler porting.

You built the saw Dan, and I have never complained about it, still runs good. I have another 372 that Ed built and it runs better and quieter. And the muffler is ported differently, so I feel I am qualified to say which one I like better.
Go back to hiding behind your alias now, one of the mods might catch you. :laugh:
 
The 371xp is a good saw. You really don’t need to modify the muffler to get this saw to run well. Just put on a sharp chain and set its RMPs to 13800 and you will be fine.
 
The 371xp is a good saw. You really don’t need to modify the muffler to get this saw to run well.

Yep long as getting the job done a little quicker does not matter then, yup you sure don't need to mod it. Could even trade the 371 in on a 357 or even a little 346 if you wan't to slow it down a little and savor the moment... Man vs. tree. Heck ditch the chainsaw all toghter, noisy poluting things, break out the axe and crosscut.:cheers:
 
Yep long as getting the job done a little quicker does not matter then, yup you sure don't need to mod it. Could even trade the 371 in on a 357 or even a little 346 if you wan't to slow it down a little and savor the moment... Man vs. tree. Heck ditch the chainsaw all toghter, noisy poluting things, break out the axe and crosscut.:cheers:

I actually have several crosscut saws from my grandfather but lack the knowledge to properly sharpen and “pitch or gum” the teeth. I am always willing to give up a little performance for lack of noise. If I could figure out a way to modify a chainsaw or trimmer muffler to be near silent, the mice would beat a path to my door but unfortunately I am not Hiram Maxim and mechanical engineering is not my forte. Its your saw and your hearing… do as you please. Just offering a counterpoint.
 
Yup, I value that path too and like to play with cross cuts and axes, brought back a couple old rusted ones, made a couple axes... Love a quiet moring in the bush as much as the next guy... But the original question back in post 1 was?
 
Yup, I value that path too and like to play with cross cuts and axes, brought back a couple old rusted ones, made a couple axes... Love a quiet moring in the bush as much as the next guy... But the original question back in post 1 was?

Huh?? Who did what now? What you say?? Hold on and let me turn up my hearing aid. Cripes! Durn battery been dead a week!
 
Attached are pictures; just slip a piece of screen behind as shown in the pictures and for times that you want it back to being stock quiet, loosen the bolts and slip in a piece of sheet metal.

The size shown would be more what you would want for a modified 372 to get the most out of it. Smaller would do for a stock saw.

I flanged the hole for a bit more strength.
 
$1.99 stainless food strainer at dollar works fine to keep stuff out of the muffler. Can go with a factory screen, ones from 066 Stihl are nice and big, but about 100 times the price per sqare inch.
 
Your wifes flour sifter! Go to the housewares department and you will find something with suitable sized screen that you can hack out. Make sure it is stainless steel not just mild steel, brass or aluminum that is used on some grease spatter screens. I cant remember now what item that screen was part of. Industrial supply places will have it but I think you wind up with more than a lifetime supply as a minimum.
 
Well Greenlatern I just did a search on the subject and there are 991 threads here and some usefull info too!
A industral supply house like McMaster Carr, .023 opening is what was recomended.
I'd just get some from a dead saw.
 

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