raising the BSM bed sections on the LT-15

[Ted J]

Hi all,
I'm moving the LT15 next to the cover that I built recently and adding the two extra bed sections that I got about a month ago. It will be sitting on a 28 foot slab right along side the cover, and I want to raise the mill up off the slab about a foot to make it a little easier to clean under and around. In the current position, I had so much bark and debris up under the bed sections it amounted to enough crap to fill up the FEL of the tractor.

Anyone got any pics of their milll that is raised off the ground? I'm trying to get a few more different ideas to make a choice on how I want to do this.

Thanks,
Ted

 

[TraditionalTool]

Hi all,
I'm moving the LT15 next to the cover that I built recently and adding the two extra bed sections that I got about a month ago. It will be sitting on a 28 foot slab right along side the cover, and I want to raise the mill up off the slab about a foot to make it a little easier to clean under and around. In the current position, I had so much bark and debris up under the bed sections it amounted to enough crap to fill up the FEL of the tractor.

Anyone got any pics of their milll that is raised off the ground? I'm trying to get a few more different ideas to make a choice on how I want to do this.

Thanks,
Ted

Ted,

I think raising it is a good idea for a couple reasons, and thought about it, but want to have support along the rails. I think I'm going to use some beams along the side of the mill...I haven't fully decided yet, but going to the yard tomorrow as it's finally supposed to be clear for a day...(only to rain on Monday or Tuesday...)

Lay a stem wall slab for the length of your mill and put a beam down each side for the rails. I'd like to hear of a better way, but short of cement beams, wood seems to be as good as any. Could replace it easily also.

If you want to raise it 12", what about running a 6x12 under each side of your bed? Would give it support along the rails? Unless you want to pour cement piers, but that would seem like a lot of work.

 

[Ted J]

Alan,
I was thinking of laying it out like a train track. Putting an 6x6x36 every 4 feet for 24 feet like railroad ties, using an anchor screw into the concrete at each one with some threaded rod and nuts to keep them in place.

Then lay the "track" with a line of 6x6's under the levelers, and after the leveling is done add a screw in the pre drilled holes that are already on the leveler feet. That would make for a total of 16 levelers srewed to the track, and raising the BSM at least a foot off the ground.

I also planned on adding some non wood blocks under the bottom treated 6x6's to keep them from rotting and/or ground contact.

Ted

 

[TraditionalTool]

Alan,
I was thinking of laying it out like a train track. Putting an 6x6x36 every 4 feet for 24 feet like railroad ties, using an anchor screw into the concrete at each one with some threaded rod and nuts to keep them in place.

Then lay the "track" with a line of 6x6's under the levelers, and after the leveling is done add a screw in the pre drilled holes that are already on the leveler feet. That would make for a total of 16 levelers srewed to the track, and raising the BSM at least a foot off the ground.

I also planned on adding some non wood blocks under the bottom treated 6x6's to keep them from rotting and/or ground contact.

Ted

Ted,

That sounds like it would work fine.

I have to get some bolts and nuts for mine as I have feet/tabs sticking out but no levelers. The previous owner had large bolts with a nut on each side to adjust it, one on the bottom to adjust and the top to lock it down. I'm gonna go look at it soon.

 

[Ted J]

Ted,

That sounds like it would work fine.

I have to get some bolts and nuts for mine as I have feet/tabs sticking out but no levelers. The previous owner had large bolts with a nut on each side to adjust it, one on the bottom to adjust and the top to lock it down. I'm gonna go look at it soon.

I went out earlier this morning and took some measurements and this is what I came up with:

 

[TraditionalTool]

Ted,

I like your design, it looks more thought out than what I have been thinking. My cross members are not flush with the sides, so there is a slight section where the cross members are raised, so not sure I will benefit from the cross ties as much as you will. Nice design though.

I was able to find some 3/4" grade 8 bolts that will use for the levelers, and will be talking to the excavator to see if they might be able to put a 4'x20' cement slab so that I could lay some timbers along the rails, so I can adjust the entire bed with the leveling bolts.

I like your design, and the way you alternate the scarf joints on the railroad sections looks nice. Why not make them one piece though? I know, I know, length of log is important...lol I think I can get by with 2 pieces as I have some 16 1/2 foot long cants, I'm just gonna split a couple down to 4", they are about 8x8. I'll lay 2 beams of 4x8 along each rail. At least that is my plan.

 

[Ted J]

Ted,

I like your design, it looks more thought out than what I have been thinking. My cross members are not flush with the sides, so there is a slight section where the cross members are raised, so not sure I will benefit from the cross ties as much as you will. Nice design though.

I was able to find some 3/4" grade 8 bolts that will use for the levelers, and will be talking to the excavator to see if they might be able to put a 4'x20' cement slab so that I could lay some timbers along the rails, so I can adjust the entire bed with the leveling bolts.

I like your design, and the way you alternate the scarf joints on the railroad sections looks nice. Why not make them one piece though? I know, I know, length of log is important...lol I think I can get by with 2 pieces as I have some 16 1/2 foot long cants, I'm just gonna split a couple down to 4", they are about 8x8. I'll lay 2 beams of 4x8 along each rail. At least that is my plan.

Yesterday I went out and popped some chalk lines on the slab and I was energetic enough that I had decided to add two anchor bolts per tie... as my wife convinced me two was better than one.....

I decided to just start on one row and marked them, got out the hammer drill and 5/8 hammer concrete bit... two inches deep, first hole was a breeze. The remaining four holes were slow going got about an inch in each :censored:.... Did I mention that this slab was poured around 15 years ago as a dog kennel floor? Does concrete get harder as it ages longer?.......

 

[jdrum]

t t & ted the cross rails make sense when it comes time to clean out between the rails. if your sides are on the pad and close to the ground you have to shovel the bark and sawdust out, 8 or 10' of clearance makes it easier to shove the trash outside where its easier to deal with. and if you are adding levelers you don't need the side timbers, the only place your track is being supported is at the levelers, just make sure your levelers are located where you log bunks are to support the weight of the logs, then all the tracks have to carry is the weight of the saw head. if you do go ahead with the lond timbers make your lap joints on the vertical (up and down) to retain the strenght of the thickness of your timber.

jim

 

[crashagn]

Does concrete get harder as it ages longer?.......


Yes.. it does. Used to work concrete.. poured walls, footings, basements, garages,sidewalks, silo pads, etc.. If someone wanted a volunter to go break out 180ft of sidewalk that was poured 2 weeks ago... by hand- I was all on it. If they were needing a volunter to break out a old barn footing or something else +40yrs old.. then its either a jack hammer on the skidloader... or iam instantly goin home sick. Make sure you r hammer drill bit aint getting hot.. If needbe get a soaker hose out.

 

[Ted J]

Does concrete get harder as it ages longer?.......


Yes.. it does. Used to work concrete.. poured walls, footings, basements, garages,sidewalks, silo pads, etc.. If someone wanted a volunter to go break out 180ft of sidewalk that was poured 2 weeks ago... by hand- I was all on it. If they were needing a volunter to break out a old barn footing or something else +40yrs old.. then its either a jack hammer on the skidloader... or iam instantly goin home sick. Make sure you r hammer drill bit aint getting hot.. If needbe get a soaker hose out.

I hear ya.... and since I don't do alot of concrete work, when it's wet or after it's dry. I did't know any better but I learnt today that ya gotta let the hammer drill do all the work with no pressure.

I kept hitting an aggregate stone or two which really slowed things down a bunch. So as I was told by a friend at work who experienced the same lesson to use a star drill chisel to break it up a little then go back to the hammer drill bit.

I'm gonna need another couple of bits though, I heat treated the one I got real good.... oh well.

Ted

 

[TraditionalTool]

Ted,

We need some pics buddy!

:bringit:

 

[gemniii]

as my wife convinced me two was better than one.....

Two wives are better than one?
She actually told you that?

 

[Ted J]

Two wives are better than one?
She actually told you that?

YES... as long as your not married to either one and your girlfriend doesn't mind.

 

[Ted J]

Ted,

We need some pics buddy!

:bringit:

I'll see what I can do 'bout that....

 

[TraditionalTool]

I'll see what I can do 'bout that....

I know that you'll update us when you have something to update with. Hope your sawmill is in place and going at it.

 

[Ted J]

I know that you'll update us when you have something to update with. Hope your sawmill is in place and going at it.

Alan,
... at times it seems nothing is going to be easy. I got the anchors set and had to quit soon afterwards as it was going to get dark soon. I opted to only set one anchor instead of two for each "tie" as it was a pain drilling the holes.

No it didn't take all day to finish drilling the holes, but the honey-do's needed to get done. Started out to fertilize the lawn by loading the broadcaster with two bags.... then unloading it to fix the broadcaster.
Finally got around to putting a new battery in the Wheel Horse... tire was flat had to get the portable compressor to the barn to air it up, brought the compressor back to the shop, then go back to the shop again for gas.... It was going to be one of those days I guess, hopefully today will be better... OH, it's supposed to rain today...... OH, that's why I fertilized!!!!



later,
Ted

 

[TraditionalTool]

Alan,
... at times it seems nothing is going to be easy. I got the anchors set and had to quit soon afterwards as it was going to get dark soon. I opted to only set one anchor instead of two for each "tie" as it was a pain drilling the holes.

No it didn't take all day to finish drilling the holes, but the honey-do's needed to get done. Started out to fertilize the lawn by loading the broadcaster with two bags.... then unloading it to fix the broadcaster.
Finally got around to putting a new battery in the Wheel Horse... tire was flat had to get the portable compressor to the barn to air it up, brought the compressor back to the shop, then go back to the shop again for gas.... It was going to be one of those days I guess, hopefully today will be better... OH, it's supposed to rain today...... OH, that's why I fertilized!!!!

Ted,

This rain won't let up on us out here...still cloudy, but hasn't rained in a couple days...I saw a few days of dry weather, hoping to see a log home raising this week possibly. I hope it stays dry, I need to get my yard sorted out, and the more it rains the more time I need to wait...

 

[Ted J]

Well, I only had time to go out and took a few pictures before we left to run some errands... hope to finish it by next weekend.

The picture is of the slab where I'm moving the LT15. It'll be going right down the middle of the slab, which will give me about 4 feet of slab on either side. Looking at the picture, logs will be loaded from the left side which is a part of the driveway. The slab size is 12' x 28' and has a slope to the right of about 2 1/2 inches.

Now I have to decide which side will be the operator side any suggestions or comments?
As an FYI, the operator is to the left side of the log while cutting, same side as the sawdust chute. (I'm planning on a sawdust bin catcher when time permits, well... that's the plan anyway.....!)

The picture is looking North and the prevailing winds are from the southeast and south with an average speed of 8mph, except in January when we get the high pressures out of the North and we get those northerly winds.

Ted

 

[TraditionalTool]

Well, I only had time to go out and took a few pictures before we left to run some errands... hope to finish it by next weekend.

Nice space that will be handy. Do you plan to cover the carriage also?

The picture is of the slab where I'm moving the LT15. It'll be going right down the middle of the slab, which will give me about 4 feet of slab on either side. Looking at the picture, logs will be loaded from the left side which is a part of the driveway. The slab size is 12' x 28' and has a slope to the right of about 2 1/2 inches.

Nice slab, gives you area to work on the log if you need to, say cut a knot off or something like that.

Now I have to decide which side will be the operator side any suggestions or comments?
As an FYI, the operator is to the left side of the log while cutting, same side as the sawdust chute. (I'm planning on a sawdust bin catcher when time permits, well... that's the plan anyway.....!)

The picture is looking North and the prevailing winds are from the southeast and south with an average speed of 8mph, except in January when we get the high pressures out of the North and we get those northerly winds.

Well, you want the small end at the carriage end, so it will seem you want the carriage closes to the camera, if the wind comes out of the southeast and your facing north, otherwise if you flip it around the dust is going to be blowing back at you. Not sure if you want a log deck on the left side or not, but if you need to walk there, the answer is no. I think the cement will make good of having the sawdust blown there as it will sweep up easily. Can shovel the sawdust off the cement also.

 

[bobsreturn]

looks an ideal slab for a mill . i would put it together ,and re arrange as i dont seem to get it right the first time . would be great with a roof over , cheers Bob