Rayco 1625 Super Jr - Pivot Head / Swing Arm

[grinderstump]

I have been taking slop out of my machine a little at a time. I re-bushed the pivot hydraulic cylinders, which helped some. I am moving on to the pivot king pin. I am curious if anyone has pictures, video, or experience with this joint on their machine. I have a few concerns and I am looking for a little guidance. My last order direct from Rayco for the previously mentioned bushings cost about $10 for the parts and over $25 shipping and handling... so I want to minimize the handling charges and get this down to one order.

I have a 1998 book on the Super Jr. , and even though the parts breakout on the "Chassis and Boom Assembly" page (p. 62) matches what is on my machine, the instructions on setting the preload (p. 45) do not. The 2 pages actually disagree regarding the setup. My machine does not have a cotter pin/castle nut and the figure on the instruction page also shows a nut on the very bottom of the king pin which my machine is missing. The instruction figure also seems to show tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

I'm not sure of the best way to communicate this, so I will say my machine definitely has parts matching what is shown in the manual for p/n's 6114, 6117 & 6116. (in pencil next to 6117 is written 6948... maybe a superseding part?)/

I would appreciate answers to any of these questions:

• Does anyone have an updated procedure for setting preload?
  
• Is there supposed to be a nut at the bottom of the King Pin?
  
• If there is a nut on the bottom of the king pin, anyone know the thread pitch?
  
• Are the "plane bearings" literally just bushings, anyone have measurements or a cross reference for the 760338, Rayco number? for the thrust washer 760339?
• The "bolt" for raise and lower also seems to have slop, as it will allow the machine to move side to side, this doesn't seem to affect much.

I am trying to take the self destructing bounce out of the machine. Help with any of these questions, or other guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dave

 

[grinderstump]

Comments from anyone who has had this apart would be appreciated.

I don't have much experience with king pins.

I took the top nut off, and it does look like there are just bushings in it. I haven't been able to get the king pin out, even with the cutter head resting on the ground, the the pressure off the joint by picking the engine a little with a cherry picker. The king pin is threaded on the bottom, but definitely spins freely. Either a nut is missing, or the fab'd part was initially threaded, and is now stripped. I can't geta BFH on it, but I put a 4 ft pipe under the pin and lifted it while trying to back it out with an impact... it just spins.

I have considered blocking the pin up, and hammering down on the fabricated part, but if it was initially threaded, this will ruin the threads on the king pin.

Thoughts, experiences?

 

[grinderstump]

Realizing there are not tapered roller bearings in the pivot on mine, I put a nut on the bottom, tightened top and bottom nuts to ~20 ft-lbs. Seemed to take the unwanted motion out of the joint. Now, I saw movement between the raise/lower cylinder and the cutter head. So I measured the bore, egg shaped to ~ 1.06" and the pin measures .995"... Not ideal. It doesn't look like it has even a plain bearing/sleeve. I am considering reaming it to accept a plain bearing. What does a Vermeer have there?

 

[grinderstump]

I skipped the cylinder pin for now and jumped right into the raise & lower pivot pin. I finally got the 1" bolt out. It was worn, measured .980" in the middle. The center bore measured 1.070" max, and was egg shaped. Lots of slop in the joint.

I bought chinese gift shop adjustable hand reamers and spent ~6 hours getting the clevis and bore opened up to ~1.070" round. I should have bought a 1-1/16" Drill bit? I would probably have come out ahead. I ended up honing the bores the last few thousandths, because the reamer chattered & had a poor finish.

I cut a 1-1/16 round bar stock 6" long, and drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 threads 1" deep on each end. I planned to retain it on both sides with a washer and a 1/2" bolt. Turns out these threads really simplified the installation of the pin, as I used them to draw the pin into place the last inch. I used a standard 1" washer on each side of the pin for spacing, as the 6" pin was ~.325 too long. As luck would have it, the 2 washers took up .305". I put a 1/2" washer outside of those on each side, and torqued the 1/2" bolts to 60 ft-lb with some loctite medium.

I had cleared out the blocked hydraulic line during the tear down. I also put a ~1/16" oil groove in the middle of the bore with a dremel, this was directly in line with the fitting. I hope this helps the joint get grease all the way around.

I have no more slop in the head of the machine, but I still have to follow through on the previously mentioned hydraulic cylinder.

My buddy helped me out by drilling & tapping the pin for me, or I would still be staring at a basket case in the garage.

 

[elmostump]

hey grinderstump, were the bushings for hydraulic cylinders stock items? I really need to replace mine. Thanks for your help!

 

[grinderstump]

They did have them in stock. If I remember correctly, these were a split style. They did ship fast, but you are looking at $35 for 4 bushings, mostly due to shipping. It's worth checking w some dealers.

Honestly $40 isn't going to hurt any of us, but that much for shipping just kills me.

 

[marne]

Thanks for sharing Dave,
Howard many hours does this machine have?

 

[elmostump]

Thanks grinderstump! going to check into getting them replaced soon. shipping prices are crazy, but my closest dealer is 3 hr away. Thanks again for your help!

 

[Rawilliams429]

I have been taking slop out of my machine a little at a time. I re-bushed the pivot hydraulic cylinders, which helped some. I am moving on to the pivot king pin. I am curious if anyone has pictures, video, or experience with this joint on their machine. I have a few concerns and I am looking for a little guidance. My last order direct from Rayco for the previously mentioned bushings cost about $10 for the parts and over $25 shipping and handling... so I want to minimize the handling charges and get this down to one order.

I have a 1998 book on the Super Jr. , and even though the parts breakout on the "Chassis and Boom Assembly" page (p. 62) matches what is on my machine, the instructions on setting the preload (p. 45) do not. The 2 pages actually disagree regarding the setup. My machine does not have a cotter pin/castle nut and the figure on the instruction page also shows a nut on the very bottom of the king pin which my machine is missing. The instruction figure also seems to show tapered roller bearings top and bottom.

I'm not sure of the best way to communicate this, so I will say my machine definitely has parts matching what is shown in the manual for p/n's 6114, 6117 & 6116. (in pencil next to 6117 is written 6948... maybe a superseding part?)/

I would appreciate answers to any of these questions:

• Does anyone have an updated procedure for setting preload?
• Is there supposed to be a nut at the bottom of the King Pin?
• If there is a nut on the bottom of the king pin, anyone know the thread pitch?
• Are the "plane bearings" literally just bushings, anyone have measurements or a cross reference for the 760338, Rayco number? for the thrust washer 760339?
• The "bolt" for raise and lower also seems to have slop, as it will allow the machine to move side to side, this doesn't seem to affect much.

I am trying to take the self destructing bounce out of the machine. Help with any of these questions, or other guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dave

Finally Got it remove bottom castle nut. Long bolt comes out top. Had to tack weld top nut to bolt to get bottom nut off after bolt is out. There is a screw in collar on top. Remove if necessary. This is called the king pin kit. 2nuts. 2 bearings 2 dust covers 1 bolt.
rayco 110.00$. Plus shipping