razor sharp chain

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What is the purpose of sharpening a chain this way in the first place? The chain will only cut as fast as the saw engine will drive it. Also sharpening the chain this way, Wouldn't it weaken the chain as well. I wouldn't want to be around when the chain brakes.
Bruce.

Bruce - Red knows what he is doing... he has probably forgotten more about chain sharpening than most will ever learn. His chains are sharpened that way for a purpose... speed. He never claimed that they were rock-proof or easy to maintain. Chains like that are designed to drop a cookie off of a competition log as fast as possible. I doubt you'll ever see a chain like that on your "homeowner 210"... Most of us that read these "Hotsaw" forums can only WISH for a chain that cuts even half as fast as Red's look sitting still.
 
OK! From what it looked like, he was asking me a question. Now I see what the commotion is about. I sure in the world wont let this gyu sharpen my chains. Will last half as long, not half fast.
Bruce.

I wish they would last half as long. But they do cut REALLLLY FAST. I will bet his chains make $50 to $100 per second at the races.

Here is one of Andy's slow half fast chains. :laugh: Don't blink now..
http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/redprospector/?action=view&current=KremmlingColorado121-1.flv
 
What is the purpose of sharpening a chain this way in the first place? The chain will only cut as fast as the saw engine will drive it. Also sharpening the chain this way, Wouldn't it weaken the chain as well. I wouldn't want to be around when the chain brakes.
Bruce.

Bruce,
You're right on one count. You don't want to be around when one breaks.:laugh: If done right, the chain isn't weakened near as much as you'd think.
A common misconception is that a chain will only cut as fast as the engine will drive it. It is true to a point, but the factories leave a lot of speed on the table to gain longevity. I wouldn't take one of my race chains to work. :cheers:

Andy
 
Thanks for the reply, that was the answer I was seeking. As you may guess, I am very new at this and I am interested in how to sharpen a chain PROPERLY.
Funny how everyone knows how, but nobody actually knows(my friends).
I hail from New Brunswick,
Cdog.
 
i am starting to understand a little bit about how much I don't know about chain sharpening.

the folks that think a chain can't be sharpened faster then it comes off the reel know less then me.

i've reached the point where i can sharpen them faster then that with a handfile, but not with a grinder. this is ONLY for a work saw.

i have no clue how to square sharpen a chain, but would like to learn.
 
i am starting to understand a little bit about how much I don't know about chain sharpening.

the folks that think a chain can't be sharpened faster then it comes off the reel know less then me.

i've reached the point where i can sharpen them faster then that with a handfile, but not with a grinder. this is ONLY for a work saw.

i have no clue how to square sharpen a chain, but would like to learn.

Realizing how much you don't know is the first real step to making a sharp chain. I know I've still got a lot to learn.

Andy
 
Has there been a square filing tutorial or demonstration on here for us dummies?
I would also like to know how to do this.
Thanks again,
Cdog.
 
Do a search, there's a lot of info on square filing here.
I've been thinking about doing a real short video of square filing a work chain on the saw, but it's my buisy season so it may be a while.

Andy
 
Bruce - Red knows what he is doing... he has probably forgotten more about chain sharpening than most will ever learn. His chains are sharpened that way for a purpose... speed. He never claimed that they were rock-proof or easy to maintain. Chains like that are designed to drop a cookie off of a competition log as fast as possible. I doubt you'll ever see a chain like that on your "homeowner 210"... Most of us that read these "Hotsaw" forums can only WISH for a chain that cuts even half as fast as Red's look sitting still.
OK. Now I understand. Before I even found this forum, quite by accident, I was looking for information on McCulloch chain saws to see what was new with them. I have 5 McCulloch chain saws. The newest one is a 1981 Pro Mac 700, and the oldest is a 1968 Mac 10 10 Automatic, and in between are a Pro Mac 60, Mini Mac 30, and a Mini Mac 110, all are in good working order, and I use them all the time to cut my winters burning, and some fire wood for selling. I never heard or seen saw chains like this before, or never heard of racing saws, or competitions like you have described. The more I read about this subject, seems quite interesting. Thanks for your input. As I said before I'm new to these forums. So far I'm enjoying it very much. Its very informative.
Thanks again .
Bruce.
 
I've got to test a few chains this weekend. I'll take a pic of a faster than stock work chain that is just filed in a few seconds per teeth with a "next size larger" round file. I've never tested a work chain in soft wood, all I've ever really cut is oak and hickory firewood.

The main thing is to acheive a nice "hook" that is not so small as to be brittle.

Wasn't trying to insult anyone at all. I am a pitiful filer by all accounts whencompared with everyone around me.

Fred

That "hook" should barely be visable. Too much and they stay sharp for 10 minutes until you saw through the first knot cluster.
 
OK. Now I understand. Before I even found this forum, quite by accident, I was looking for information on McCulloch chain saws to see what was new with them. I have 5 McCulloch chain saws. The newest one is a 1981 Pro Mac 700, and the oldest is a 1968 Mac 10 10 Automatic, and in between are a Pro Mac 60, Mini Mac 30, and a Mini Mac 110, all are in good working order, and I use them all the time to cut my winters burning, and some fire wood for selling. I never heard or seen saw chains like this before, or never heard of racing saws, or competitions like you have described. The more I read about this subject, seems quite interesting. Thanks for your input. As I said before I'm new to these forums. So far I'm enjoying it very much. Its very informative.
Thanks again .
Bruce.

I'm afraid you will not find a McCulloch that will replace your oldies these days. All the macs are now is a plastic chinese knockoff saw with a yellow paint job. I understand wanting to own a good quality american built saw, but there aren't any more. If you want a new good quality saw look at Stihl, Dolmar, Husqvarna, and Solo.

Or just keep up the old macs and run them forever, my dads still using the 610 I learned to cut with, my grandpas old mac is in my shed and will fire right up (I sure miss him).
 
I'm afraid you will not find a McCulloch that will replace your oldies these days. All the macs are now is a plastic Chinese knockoff saw with a yellow paint job. I understand wanting to own a good quality American built saw, but there aren't any more. If you want a new good quality saw look at Stihl, Dolmar, Husqvarna, and Solo.

Or just keep up the old macs and run them forever, my dads still using the 610 I learned to cut with, my grandpas old mac is in my shed and will fire right up (I sure miss him).
Yes, I know exactly what you mean. I have the chainsaw I learned to cut wood with, in the fall of1981. Mac 10 10 Automatic, that belonged to my Great Uncle, which he bought new in 1968. My Father bought it from him in 1974, because he had bought a brand new Pro Mac 60 in 1973. My Father bought a new Pro Mac 700 in 1981, In 1984, I bought the Pro Mac 60 from my Great Uncle, and when my Dad died in 1998, I inherited both the Mac 10 10, and the Pro Mac 700. My Great Uncle had a Mini Mac 30, my Great Aunt gave my Father when my Great Uncle died. My Great Uncle also had a Mini Mac 35, in pieces. The body was not in good shape, so I found a body for a Mini Mac 110, and had the saw rebuilt. Great saws. Hard to replace. Those 2 men taught me not only how to use them, but to look after them properly. I miss both everyday, but I feel their presents every day I go into the bush. It doesnt matter if I walking in the bush, or cutting wood. This bush is located on the family farm, that I am living on now.
Bruce. Well there is always ebay
 
Realizing how much you don't know is the first real step to making a sharp chain. I know I've still got a lot to learn.

Andy

The first thing you need to learn is to be more generous to your son in law. Maybe make him half a dozen more race chains, and let him beat you in a few races.:monkey:
 
The first thing you need to learn is to be more generous to your son in law. Maybe make him half a dozen more race chains, and let him beat you in a few races.:monkey:

Hahahaha. Don't tell anyone but I'm working on one for you right now. Half a dozen more chains? Counting this one, 5 more years and I should have that bill filled.:clap:

Andy
 
Do a search, there's a lot of info on square filing here.
I've been thinking about doing a real short video of square filing a work chain on the saw, but it's my buisy season so it may be a while.

Andy

OK! Now I'm confused. What is square filing? I'm new to this websight, and I have never heard of squre filing.:monkey:
 
A square ground/filed chain is the fastest cutting chain known to mankind, primarily used in the Pacific North West cutting big timber. It is ground with a special grinder, or filed with specialty files. The only place a round file is used is to clean out the gullet. Here is a picture.

Goodgullet.jpg


Andy
 
A square ground/filed chain is the fastest cutting chain known to mankind, primarily used in the Pacific North West cutting big timber. It is ground with a special grinder, or filed with specialty files. The only place a round file is used is to clean out the gullet. Here is a picture.

Goodgullet.jpg


Andy
Andy. Thanks for the info. Since I found this Website, I have learned a lot, and seen things I've never seen before. Would this type of sharpening work for cutting Sugar Maple, and Ash? From what you have shown me in your picture, it looks very interesting. Thanks again.
Bruce.
 
This guide really works well for sq filed work chain, it's simple and effective.
I made one that can make a faster chain but it's alot harder to set up, I'll get some pictures up today.

Later,
 
Andy. Thanks for the info. Since I found this Website, I have learned a lot, and seen things I've never seen before. Would this type of sharpening work for cutting Sugar Maple, and Ash? From what you have shown me in your picture, it looks very interesting. Thanks again.
Bruce.

It would work fine in Sugar Maple, and Ash. Square ground chain dosen't like dirt (it's not as bad as some let on). It is intended to cut clean wood.

Andy
 
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