Rebuilding a 575 xp

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liberty

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I just reassembled my 575 xp. I nstalled new crank bearing and piston and rings when i realized I did not install the crankshaf cups. I now have to split the crankcase again. What do the crankshaft cups do? I nstalled bearings with rubber seals on both sides.. Dumb question but are they really necessary? What was the trick again to disassemble the crank halves without thy special tools? I believe it involved ]a rubber mallet. Thanks
 
I think the cups have something to do with the stratified charge induction system. if that is the case, they are necessary. Did you use factory seals? If so, you should at least remove the inside (facing the crankshaft) seals from the bearings, and possibly both seals from each bearing, so they get oil. I thought I read about some folks who used the seal on the outside of the bearing instead of the factory seal. I suppose a rubber mallet judiciously applied to the crankshaft ends might separate your case halves without damage...maybe (once the screws are removed, of course). I considered the "just my luck" factor, then I bought the factory splitter tool.
 
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If you are talking about the cups that fit over the outside of the crankshaft between the arms and the bearings - they decrease the crankcase volume to enhance fuel draw and crankcase differential pressure change.

The high performance Huskies have them.
 
I thought I read awhile back that I would be better off with the seals on to keep the grease in. I believe it was on this site. They are easy to remove when I take it apart again so should I definately remove them? I want to do what is right once.
 
I got the cases apart with the mallet. Just wondering on the seals on the bearings. A fella called motoman 5150 said he leaves the seals in and it works fine. If you are out there I sent you a pm to see how it worked out. Thanks
 
My Ski-doo and some others use sealed bearings on the cranks but they use Isoflex grease. Don't know what the difference is.
 
There must be some other opinions out there regarding the seals on the bearings! I need to get the saw back together.
 
I spoke with skf about the bearing and they stated the grease is rated for 256 degrees and 15krpm. What do you think?
 
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I've never seen a chainsaw bearing with both sides sealed. If they're prone to failing, then something else is wrong. I understand Husky made a change on the 575. What did they do? I for one would be using the latest OEM bearing. Husky bearings agent so overpriced like Stihls, so no reason not to run them.
 
the sealed bearings are aready internally lubed no reason for any more if you take the seals off then you might as well have just bought new oem bearings and seals, the reason i used these vwas price, $10 bucks a piece, I don't believe u can buy oem bearings and seals for $20 dollars, also they were right down the street in stock, I have recently put these same bearings in my 2171 and have 20-30 hours on them no problems ,I will use these on all my future rebuilds, 62022RS is the bearing part number that I used
 
I just took the old bearing to the bearing shop and matched it, he said as i watched him look it up that they were good for over 20,000 rpms
 
Let us know how they hold up long-term. I foresee some issues. If it was that easy they'd all be doing it.

Also, are both main bearings on this saw 6202 series bearings? It that's true, that could be part of the problem......
 
Yes, both are 6202 bearings. Whats the worse that could happen. I might have to rebuild again. What horrible work!!! HAHA
 
I cannot disagree- the worse that could happen is short-lived bearings. Let us know how they hold up. I wonder if you could take sealed bearings and remove the seal on one side, then not worry about crank seals?
 

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