rebuilt ms200t. keep or sell?

[boutselis]

I purchased a used ms200t. it has a new piston and cylinder, supposedly oem, new oil pump and worm gear, new clutch and new air filter. It has 155 comp and does not appear to have been used since the rebuild (he said it hadn't been also) so the rings have not seated yet. starts up and runs. I have not cut with it yet or let it warm up. so I only know it starts easy and seems to run great.
I payed $200 with no bar. The previous owner put jb weld around the seam on the gas tank so i assumed it leaked and it does. pretty slow leak but it leaks none the less.


I can not see enough of the cylinder to tell if it is actually an oem cylinder. I can only tell the difference by looking at the mark on it but I can't see it.

I purchased this as a replacement for my 2004 red max top handle (3150 i think) which still runs fine. I ported the exhaust and opened the muffler a little on the red max a couple of years ago and it performs well. just used it to help cut up some pine trees on saturday.

I mostly will be using the 200t for palm trees. a small amount of tree trimming also.

what do you think? Any way of telling wht kind of cylinder is on it without taking it apart?

 

[k5alive]

where ya at in FL?

 

[7sleeper]

For palm trees get a "plastic" TH saw. Or clean it miticuosly after every use. The sap will eat your saw in no time.

7

edit: about your question, do you have a bore scope or one of those cheapy flexible video endoscopes. You might be able to see if the cylinder is oem.

 

[boutselis]

For palm trees get a "plastic" TH saw. Or clean it miticuosly after every use. The sap will eat your saw in no time.

7

edit: about your question, do you have a bore scope or one of those cheapy flexible video endoscopes. You might be able to see if the cylinder is oem.

no scope of any kind.

I have not had too much of a problem with the palm dust and fibers corroding my saw. I know what your talking about and have seen it but it was on larger saws that were used to cut down cabbage palms and then were never cleaned. not to say it doesn't happen from trimming. Just hasn't happened to me, yet.

 

[fearofpavement]

As far as whether the cyl is oem or not, if it runs great, what's it matter?

As to whether to keep or sell it, you'll have to decide that for yourself. If you have a use for it, I'd recommend keeping it. Or use it for a while and then sell it. Sounds like you need a new tank. They're available.

I would never buy a newly rebuilt saw unless it had some hours on it. And if I rebuild one, I don't sell them until I have run a few tanks through it to prove it. To each their own.

 

[boutselis]

As far as whether the cyl is oem or not, if it runs great, what's it matter?

As to whether to keep or sell it, you'll have to decide that for yourself. If you have a use for it, I'd recommend keeping it. Or use it for a while and then sell it. Sounds like you need a new tank. They're available.

I would never buy a newly rebuilt saw unless it had some hours on it. And if I rebuild one, I don't sell them until I have run a few tanks through it to prove it. To each their own.

thats sound advice. I thought $200 was a good price with the new parts.

I let it idol for 5 minutes then warmed it up some and let it sit and idol a little more. Seems like its doing good but like you were saying only time will tell.

Any one think a slow leak to be dangerous? maybe flammable?

 

[fearofpavement]

The main issue is the mess a leaking tank makes but you are correct in being concerned about a flammable fluid leaking out. Best to either do a better jimmy rig job on it or change the tank with a new or serviceable used one. JB Weld works pretty well if the surface is correctly prepped. Also a product called seal all works for fuel leaks. Note on the JB Weld, I can't recommend the quick cure five minute stuff. The original "slow" product is what you need.

 

[MCW]

I doubt this top end would be aftermarket as the AM top ends to suit the 200T's haven't been on the market for that long. Could be but unlikely.

 

[boutselis]

The main issue is the mess a leaking tank makes but you are correct in being concerned about a flammable fluid leaking out. Best to either do a better jimmy rig job on it or change the tank with a new or serviceable used one. JB Weld works pretty well if the surface is correctly prepped. Also a product called seal all works for fuel leaks. Note on the JB Weld, I can't recommend the quick cure five minute stuff. The original "slow" product is what you need.

I doubt this top end would be aftermarket as the AM top ends to suit the 200T's haven't been on the market for that long. Could be but unlikely.

He JUSt rebuilt it. I mean like the week I bought it. But I also found out he works at a stihl dealer completely by accident and he probably gets the parts a cost and I am betting he has done this a few times so I'm gonna keep it.

fearofpavement: I think he used the quick set stuff as he had tried to put on a second coat the day I was to come look at it. He must have thought it would cure before I got there.

the fuel leaking on a hot saw is what my concern is. I could always drain the tank when not in use. So I should get a new tank I guess. I am gonna try to fix it myself first.

 

[big t double]

It looks like the palm sap has already started doin it's thing from what I can see in the second picture. The top of the oil channel looks pretty chewed up...The reason it got a new oil pump I'll bet is because it was chewed up too. Not trying to be a downer or nothing just give a heads up...I've seen it before on two saws I've rebuilt that came from Florida.

 

[boutselis]

It looks like the palm sap has already started doin it's thing from what I can see in the second picture. The top of the oil channel looks pretty chewed up...The reason it got a new oil pump I'll bet is because it was chewed up too. Not trying to be a downer or nothing just give a heads up...I've seen it before on two saws I've rebuilt that came from Florida.

Is there a way to stop the corrosion? I'm not sure if the palms are acidic or its some other chemical reaction. I think ammonia neutralizes acid.

 

[big t double]

Is there a way to stop the corrosion? I'm not sure if the palms are acidic or its some other chemical reaction. I think ammonia neutralizes acid.

I'm not sure...that's a good question...the one 200t I rebuilt got a new case half because it was so bad that bar oil leaked over the top of the bar because it didn't seal flat against the case...now the 201 I'm rebuilding isn't as bad so I'm going to let it fly... I just gave it a good cleaning in the solvent tank and am hoping it doesn't keep corroding...guess ill find out in a couple months...I'll be keeping an eye on this thread to see if anyone else maybe has a better answer.

 

[Oliver1655]

You still have your red saw to use for now, I'd just order a new tank & be done with it. You got the saw cheap enough it will still be a bargain. :msp_wink:

 

[boutselis]

I'm not sure...that's a good question...the one 200t I rebuilt got a new case half because it was so bad that bar oil leaked over the top of the bar because it didn't seal flat against the case...now the 201 I'm rebuilding isn't as bad so I'm going to let it fly... I just gave it a good cleaning in the solvent tank and am hoping it doesn't keep corroding...guess ill find out in a couple months...I'll be keeping an eye on this thread to see if anyone else maybe has a better answer.

Even though I trim palm trees I don't know this answer.

is it acidic? Thats the key to knowing how too or wether it needs to be stopped. Acid corrodes for longer times than you can see. the reaction slows so it is not noticeable but the corrosion kkeps happening. IT could also be a very strong base causing the corrosion or some other chemical reaction. I have been thinking about it and do remember seeing it on a few different saws. A ms361 I purchased used had seen a lot of palm tree removal and it was seriously corroded.

 

[boutselis]

You still have your red saw to use for now, I'd just order a new tank & be done with it. You got the saw cheap enough it will still be a bargain. :msp_wink:

Thats a very good point. but. There is also the time to put the tank on. I have not done any real work on this type of saw. if it was just a question of buying a $50 tank then that would be fine. I got a great deal on a 200t for $250. But I don't want to put the tank on. that not only means moving a motor but I think intake boot, carb, and fuel lines on these little saws are a real pain to work on. I took one apart once and I remember having a hard time with it and can't really remember how I did it.
thats why I'm gonna try to fix the leak first.