Replacing Husky 340.. used husky 55 offered, should I take it?

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mweston34

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New to the forum, so please be kind. I have been using a 340 for 8yrs as a homeowner. Found it to be a good solid saw, though it bogs down at times. I could pick up a barely ussed Husky 55, or buy new. I would prefer not to spend a lot of money as I may be tough on the saw as homeowners go, I am no pro. (10 acres of oak, madrone and pine to keep up).
1) Is the 55 a good saw for no more than $200?
2) Options under $400?
Thanks,
Mark:confused:
 
First off, welcome to Arborist Site!
For 400 bucks you could get a MS280. Many on here like the Husky 350, which is a solid saw and is a great contender. I just happen to like the engine management system on the 280 for homeowners. You will never have to adjust the high needle on your carb as it does that for you. The important thing is having a good dealer of the saw you purchase. If your dealer is too far away or is a donkey, it isn't worth it. Also check the trading post, you can usually find meaty saws there in the 400 buck range. Good luck, and of course you know you will have to post pics of the new saw to avoid severe punishment:cheers:
 
Working on a 55 now, nice saw

New to the forum, so please be kind. I have been using a 340 for 8yrs as a homeowner. Found it to be a good solid saw, though it bogs down at times. I could pick up a barely ussed Husky 55, or buy new. I would prefer not to spend a lot of money as I may be tough on the saw as homeowners go, I am no pro. (10 acres of oak, madrone and pine to keep up).
1) Is the 55 a good saw for no more than $200?
2) Options under $400?
Thanks,
Mark:confused:


Yes the 55 is a nice saw. For around $200 I would get it if it's got nice compression. I am working on one right now, and have completely rebuilt it with OEM parts for around $100.

They still make them for other markets, so parts are easy to get, and if you trust the seller, then I say go for it.

Good Luck, and welcome to AS.

Jason
 
I wouldn't hesitate...

Is the saw a 55 or 55 rancher? They're both reguarded as good saws but the non rancher 55 usually has a decompression valve and set up with a .325 chain. I have a used 51 same chassis as the 55 and I like it a lot. I would say buy the 55 if it has decent compression.
 
One of my cutting buds has a 55rancher he bought new, nice saw and earns its beans! As said above, nice shape and good comp, hm, I'd buy it without hesitation for +-200, good solid saw with a decent rep imho.

:cheers: & welcome (though I gotta laugh at all the new members beggin' not ta get beat up on their first posts lolol, sheesh, are we that bad?)

Serge
 
i love my 55 rancher.

great saw.it needs a decomp valve though.when and if it ever blows up it will get one.i have only replaced the fuel line in 4 years.340 isn't a bad saw,get it looked at,might just need a fuel line or carb rebuild.make sure the muffler port isn't clogged with carbon if you run your oil mix a little rich.350 is a nice saw as well.i have just gotten spoiled with the quick access air filter covers,like the 353 has.
 
Testing compression...

So can I check the compression like a car? I have a compression gauge. What is a good reading, above what?

The seller is the widow, she does not know jack about the saw. The metal plate says model 55. How can I confirm it is not the rancher, or that it at least has the decompression valve?

Thanks!
Mark
 
Actually it's pretty easy

Not hard, the metal plate says 55, and if they were the original owner, and not commercially used, then you have a pretty good chance that the label on the recoil is the right one. If it says "55" without the word Rancher on it, then there you have it.

The decompression valve really doesn't change much in a small displacement saw, but it is nice for some people... Still a great saw, just buy it....

Jason
 
55 is great

Mark-

I have an older 55 grey top (kinda like me) that I've owned since '92. The saw has been bullet-proof as far as my needs go.
The best recommendation I could make is to keep your chains as sharp as possible. By a bunch and rotate them as they get dull, resharpening the dull ones. Do it yourself or have them sharpened. The smaller 40-50cc saws really perform much better with sharp chains and you won't have to work them as hard.
The 55 - oh yeah, I'd buy one again.
Under $400 I'd look at the 350 for sure. Ample power and very nice handling.

Good luck and welcome to the site.

Al :)
 
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Not hard, the metal plate says 55, and if they were the original owner, and not commercially used, then you have a pretty good chance that the label on the recoil is the right one. If it says "55" without the word Rancher on it, then there you have it.

The decompression valve really doesn't change much in a small displacement saw, but it is nice for some people... Still a great saw, just buy it....

Jason


The 55 is a perfectly OK saw, Rancher or not - but the 350 has less vibes (if you care), and is lighter - but has a "plastic" case, like your 340.

...and you should consider the Dolmar 5100S, if you want some extra performance for 400 USD.
 
for 200$ id go for the 55 hands down as long as it has good compression and your buying from a trusted seller. even if you had to put 100$ into it over the next couple of years, its still a good deal

Should be perfect for 10 acres.
 
Good Point

The 55 is a perfectly OK saw, Rancher or not - but the 350 has less vibes (if you care), and is lighter - but has a "plastic" case, like your 340.

...and you should consider the Dolmar 5100S, if you want some extra performance for 400 USD.

Good point Niko:

Never minded the plastic case, and the 350 is a really nice saw. Obviously the 5100 is a great saw for the price. Me, I'd buy from the widow for a plethora of reasons, and grab some chains with the extra money, grab some synthetic oil with the savings, and cut some wood...

Still good points though.

Jason
 
You can't go wrong with the 55. I have seen both ranchers and the regular 55's with and without the decomp. No biggie either way. Some call them homeowner saws, but they are built better thn most homeowner saws. The antivibe is just as good as any rubber mounted stihl small saw. Many tree services used them in area and they got beat up and kept running. I have three of them and wouldn't trade them for 350's or ms280's.
 
You can't go wrong with the 55. I have seen both ranchers and the regular 55's with and without the decomp. No biggie either way. Some call them homeowner saws, but they are built better thn most homeowner saws. The antivibe is just as good as any rubber mounted stihl small saw. ....

True, as far as I know! ;)
 
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Steve, what about chain pitch on the 55....

Steve, having extensive use of the 55/55R, do you think that they're better suited for .325 pitch setup?
 
Steve, having extensive use of the 55/55R, do you think that they're better suited for .325 pitch setup?


I do, and he don't (I think) - with 16" or less I would try 3/8", but my bet is on the .325x7, anyway......

....but make sure your .325 chain is Stihl RS/RSC or Oregon LP, nothing else!!
 
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I've told the story here before . I bought a new 55 , one of 3 new saws I have purchased in 25 years of serious woodcutting and mine was a lemon.
Not saying their all bad,cause obviously several people have had success with them. Mine failed me in the woods often in the short time I kept it.
When it was at its best behaviour it was a pooch with 20"bar 3/8 chain (what I wanted to run),Did decent with 16" bar 3/8, Had power but not speed with an 18 inch .325 pitch 7 pin rim sprocket. I raced a 346 xp with it and they were close , but I believe my chain was sharpened better.
 
I believe the Husky 55 became the 455. And with the change, the crankcase went from magnesium to plastic. So in my mind, the older design would be closer to a professional-grade saw. For $200, if barely used, I'd buy it.

P.S. I know the magnesium crankcase has already been mentioned, I'm just suggesting that newer doesn't always mean better...especially in terms of durability.
 
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I have a 51, which is basically the same as the 55, and I run .325 nk on a 16 inch bar with an 8 pin rim or a 20 inch bar with a 7 pin rim. The only thing I did was a muffler mod. I run the 16" most of the time, but it runs the 20" very well also. I have a friend with a 350 and the 51 is faster.
 
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