Rescue 8

[HusqyStihl]

Ive read that decending on an 8 "twists" you climb line. Can someone explain the twist and why it happens or why its bad? Does it ruin your rope quicker? Does the Rescue 8 i purchased in the picture (with ears) help to not twist my rope on descent?

I know about a regular 8 and the rope flipping up and "knotting" itself to leave you stuck and the Rescue 8's ears are a fix to that, but is there any reason i shouldnt decend on it?

And whats the oval hole in the middle?? More friction if needed? Or a locking mech combined with a biner?

And i definitely need to back up this device with a prusik or other friction hitch above it correct? In the name of safety...?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

http://www.cmcrescue.com/tying-off-a-rescue-8/

I've never backed up an eight. As far as the ears go, yes, they help keep the rope in the proper configuration. As far as milking or twisting the rope, eh, maybe a little, but not bad, way better than a munter. Never found a good use for the center hole.

Here's my preferred tie off method.

An eight is just like any other piece of gear. It has its uses and drawbacks, and requires training and practice. Any time I get a new piece of gear or pick up a new piece of gear it's a few evenings in the backyard low and slow before it goes to the jobsite.

 

[HusqyStihl]

Awesome, exactly what i was lookin for! Definitely looks like some practice on that. Figured id buy ears to make it easier but even then it looks complicated. But like you said, low and slow and ill pick it up.

Read alot about an 8 being a base anchor also. But for now im stickin to Double rope to learn. Can it be used to descend in double? I got lots to learn. Its mind boggling to come up with a kit that suits ya. Everyones got their own way but it seems like i wanna get one of everything to try out eventually to see what fits me and climbing style.

Appreciate your help!

~Moose

 

[Griff93]

I'm glad I looked at the link JollyLogger posted. I haven't ever seen anyone tie off an 8 in that configuration. I'm going to have to try that way now.

An 8 can be used in dual rope. That's how our second climber gets down when we are doing crane work. One stays in the tree doing the cutting and the other rides the ball, hooks up the sling, then rappels down their dual rope using a figure 8. Make sure you're using 1/2" rope with that rescue 8. Most don't work nearly as well on 7/16" rope.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Smaller rope just has less surface area, so less friction. It works the same.

 

[treebilly]

Yup what he said. I used to use mine a lot for setting pull ropes on bean poles years ago. Now it's used as a back up for when my friend's kids are here and want to climb. Might be putting it on light rigging duty soon.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Not to derail the thread, but we all understand the physics of any type of lowering device, right? They all convert energy to heat. The higher you go, the more potential energy you have stored. In order to avoid expending all of that energy at once at ground zero you employ some sort of friction device that converts that energy to heat. If successful, it dissipates that energy faster than it absorbs it, or at least before hitting its own melting point, which leads to failure.

 

[Griff93]

The problem I have with using 7/16" rope with my rescue 8 is there isn't enough friction for me to be able to tie off when my weight is on the rope. I can't bring my tail up without sliding down the rope. With 1/2" I don't have any trouble tying off. I'm a decent sized guy but I'm not overly heavy. I'm around 190-195.

The heat energy conversion is one reason cavers and people doing other long drops generally use racks instead of figure 8s. There's a lot more material to absorb the heat.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

If you're in situations where you're tying off on an eight often, grab a petzl RIG. You'll love it, and it's a lot safer.

 

[acer-kid]

For future reference, you should always back up an eight on decent. Doing anything else is just risky and stupid. One slip, one bee attack, etc, You splat. The middle hole is for belaying, and you can run 7/16" line through an eight with the same results. You just need a different eight, sharper bends. Match your gear.. Check your suggested diameters, and back it up. It's fairly simple.

 

[HusqyStihl]

I'm glad I looked at the link JollyLogger posted. I haven't ever seen anyone tie off an 8 in that configuration. I'm going to have to try that way now.

An 8 can be used in dual rope. That's how our second climber gets down when we are doing crane work. One stays in the tree doing the cutting and the other rides the ball, hooks up the sling, then rappels down their dual rope using a figure 8. Make sure you're using 1/2" rope with that rescue 8. Most don't work nearly as well on 7/16" rope.

Yup, runnin 1/2" Yale XTC. Hopefully gonna get some chances to play with it soon enough in the next couple weeks