That's a tough row to hoe alone. Although if you cant get an experiened helper you might be better off.
It's really not, just slow going alone, once you have done it for 35+ years selective cutting dead or dying for firewood it's easy. This made removing monster trees up against structure or homes easy in urban tree removal so I went with it over a decade ago.
Your gonna need that rope, 50, 100 and a 150.
3/4" bull line 120+ft
You need three ropes for redirects.
Two good shot lines with one and two pound throw weights are your new best friends.
12oz doesn't help me out much unless your up a tree. The two pound rubber pear ball is the ticket shooting lines over roofs or cars, trucks whatever. Setting up hinges and felling rows of trees all at once is not only fun but practical some days. Making leaners also plays into it.
The cabled snatch block lug-all is singularly the best mule team your ever going to have in tight woods. I've got three in two sizes or get the rope puller tool. Shackles are used quite often to rig slides, rope couplers, zips and double eye flat slings for chokers on trees or whatever.
Two saws minimum, I bring six or more sometimes, one guy, one 4x4, pu or my Camry gets it done. I pull trees with the Camry. 5-1 comes out sometimes for light pulls on big trees in tight spots. You cut and pull from the same spot by hand, literally and sometimes off a redirect to who knows where or what.
Vehicles are a poor choice to pull with on back leaners before you get them up straight. They can and will drag your vehicle on poor ground but not pavement or concrete. Blocks and an emergency brake are good choices sometimes in the city. Short hooking right up against your choker point to that low choked block with a lawnmower will work with little risks when done right. No chance of sliding backwards if your at the redirect point or right up on the block. We've had three 3,500ld lug-alls loaded down on an uprooted big white oak blown over onto the house but not broke. We put it back up with those three rigs and nothing more. It was down at a 55* or more angle. Anchor points are everything! I started about twenty feet up on two large oaks in the back yard near it.
Out in open woods I use my truck, long ropes, shallow angles and a rolling bridal across the front hooks. Having a locker in the front of my 97'GMC Z71 ext cab SLT three door, heavy half ton pu makes quick work with some mediocre traction in the wet leaves.
I don't like electric winches because they can be too slow for quick redirects or simple pull overs on rotten trees.
You need a hinge. Again you need a solid hinge!!!! If you have no holding wood.... do use the sap wood on the face of a hollow maple tree. So... your dealing with something pretty sketchy. Cripple cuts are something to NOT be using near structure and they tend to have unpredictable tendencies every time but on small snags or dead pecker poles.
Having two rope lines on one tree I know is hollow is good to keep it under control. Felling into a high line as a slide way works. Felling onto another rigging line is okay if you go slow and have a seriously good anchor point like a choker and shackle in a natural crotch or better yet choked to the main stem with a shackle and a two eye nylon flat strap. Getting rigging back is easy if you have that third line to hang it from
Be smart and stay safe kids.
A mellon protection device is highly recommended for falling sticks and limbs.
I tried to keep it all written in crayon, like usual
K.I.S.S. and run when **** goes wrong or finish with a power pruner like I have so many times before. Yes you will crush the pole eventually, oh well.
Don't work tired or distracted.
Keep your head on a swivel.
Did I miss anything?