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Dave58

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Newville, PA
I am new to the site...

Is a Stihl saw chain 26RS (chisel) .325", to much for an MS290 with an 18" bar?

This is a firewood cutting saw, nothing more.

Dave
 
I wouldnt think so. I run the stihl 325 050 RS on a Poulan 305 49cc 16 inch bar with no problems.
 
Not at all even with an 8 pin drive you should be fine, if you can handle it. It is not a safety chain.

That size saw maybe 3/8 RS on 7 would be better, but fine both ways.
 
That's the set-up on my 290, and a pretty common one I suppose. Do it.
 
Don't know what your using for chain now, but if it is a semi chisle, you will find the RS easier to dull if you cut dirt.
 
I am currently using a 26RM2 (safety chain). It really sucks after only a few sharpenings. I talked to a logger buddy of mine and he said to get a cheisel chain without the anit-kickback rakers.

I bought the 26RS-74 (.325"pitch, .063" gage)...It will fit my saw (MS 290 18" bar), but the Stihl book says that that type of chain is for big horsepower saws with long bars. Just not sure which saw starts the "big saw" category.

I am going to cut for a few hours tonight, so I will let you guys know how I make out.

Dave
 
Stihl book says RS skip chains are best suited for long bars and high power units, regular RS (like ours) is for long (homeowner) saws, like ours.
 
Yes. Like everyone else said, that setup is fine. 3/8 chisel, now that might be a different story, but .325 shouldn't give you any troubles in any wood. My 290 runs .325 chisel chain on a 20" bar and it works fine that way on those few occasions I actually bother to use my 290.
 
Dave58 said:
I am currently using a 26RM2 (safety chain). It really sucks after only a few sharpenings. I talked to a logger buddy of mine and he said to get a cheisel chain without the anit-kickback rakers.

I bought the 26RS-74 (.325"pitch, .063" gage)...It will fit my saw (MS 290 18" bar), but the Stihl book says that that type of chain is for big horsepower saws with long bars. Just not sure which saw starts the "big saw" category.

I am going to cut for a few hours tonight, so I will let you guys know how I make out.

Dave

While the RM2 isn't the fastest cutting chain out there, it sounds like your rakers and the bumper tie straps are too high, and preventing the chain from geting a bite of the wood. You might want to try lowering them, and that chain should cut better. It won't keep up to RS in a clean log, but it shouldn't be having trouble getting a bite, like it sounds to be doing currently.
 
Dave58 said:
I am currently using a 26RM2 (safety chain). It really sucks after only a few sharpenings. I talked to a logger buddy of mine and he said to get a cheisel chain without the anit-kickback rakers.

I bought the 26RS-74 (.325"pitch, .063" gage)...It will fit my saw (MS 290 18" bar), but the Stihl book says that that type of chain is for big horsepower saws with long bars. Just not sure which saw starts the "big saw" category.

I am going to cut for a few hours tonight, so I will let you guys know how I make out.

Dave

It not only will handle it its the choice most like best. You will like it.....
 
I have a 390 that I run Stihl's yellow label full-chiesel chain with a 20" bar, and it works great for me. It is easier to dull then a semi-chiesel, but I try to keep it out of the dirt.:givebeer:
Andy1234
 
Only thing to use on that combo...be careful it has more aggressive kickback tendencies than the safety chain...but it is safe if you pay attention and stay out of the kickback path. Don't let it hit the dirt too often or you will be constanatly sharpening it. It's easy to sharpen too, though, just a few strokes with a 3/16 round file, maybe 2-3 on each cutter and lower the rakers every 3rd or 4th sharpening and it will cut great!
 
Lower the rakers on that saftey chain and you will can always have it for a back up, they can cut decent.
 
Fellas: Thanks for all of the input!

I used the new RS chain last night for 1 tank of gas...It was like a totally different saw. I would definately reccommend it. It really cuts fast.

It cuts quick enough that I did seem as fatigued and tired after each cut as I used to feel with the old chain.

Dave
 
Dave58 said:
Fellas: Thanks for all of the input!

I used the new RS chain last night for 1 tank of gas...It was like a totally different saw. I would definately reccommend it. It really cuts fast.

It cuts quick enough that I did seem as fatigued and tired after each cut as I used to feel with the old chain.

Dave

If you were fatigued/tired cutting with the old chain, either it was dull, or the rakers and bumper ties traps were preventing it from getting a good bite into the wood. Even if you were getting the cutters sharp, they won't cut wood if the rakers and tie straps are so high the cutters barely touches the wood. I suspect your old chain wasn't necessarily dull, but had not had the rakers and tie straps lowered, to let it bite into the wood. Your new RS will end up in the same situation, if you don't lower the rakers as well.
 
good chain for that saw. now the guys are rite about the rakers .
u need to go to madsens site or something ,so u know what they talkin about.
next u will be tempted to take the rakers too low. this will bog u saw and make it cut rough. stay at .020 to 025 depth on the rakers.
in my opinion u would serve u self well to find a good shop and talk to them as much as they will let u. also study what they did when they sharpened u saw.
assuming of course ,that it cut well after. if not look for another shop.good luck
 
Dave58 said:
Fellas: Thanks for all of the input!

I used the new RS chain last night for 1 tank of gas...It was like a totally different saw. I would definately reccommend it. It really cuts fast.

It cuts quick enough that I did seem as fatigued and tired after each cut as I used to feel with the old chain.

Dave

Liked that RS chain did ya, most everyone does. Just remember when ya knock those points off those square cutters she stops. Keep her out the dirt and keep her sharp................
 
canguy21 said:
What is the advantage of 26RS over 23RS? I can't see the reason for a heavy driver on a low pro chain.
None - just use the gauge that fits your bar.
When it is time for a new bar, select the gauge that is most easily availiable where you live. :)

:confused: By the way; Why are you calling the .325 RS chain low pro ???? :confused:
 
It is a smaller chain designed for the lighter saws. I did not mean to suggest it is inferior quality, it is in fact very good chain.
 
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