Saw cleaning? How do you do it?

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Those $1-$2 plastic bristled cleaning brushes at the grocery or dollar store work GREAT for knocking off the loose stuff. WD40 works good for sap and crud that the brush doesn't get, but I prefer liquid wrench silicone spray (it is cheaper for me, and works every bit as well). If I am tearing something down, mineral spirits or kerosene is my poison...
 
It baffles my how many farm shops and friends that work on saws don't have something as basic as a solvent tank! I paid 25 for mine and love it. It's always there and ready to use.

Gonna be looking for one after Christmas. My work has several (large ones)
but our Maintenance dept normally has them full and agitating with parts 24/7.

Gonna search the Bay now. :)
 
Zep Once Over soak and compressed air gets it almost oil and sawdust free then a wd-40 soak and more compressed air. Makes even the wore out 35 year old saws look like new-and the wd-40 keeps pitch and such from sticking.

Not to preach to anyone here but a sharp chain making big chips keeps the saw pretty clean by itself.
 
If I am doing a complete tear down
1. Large brush
2. Pressure washer
3. Dry with compressed air
4. Solvent tank with mineral spirits
5. WD-40 and clean rags

I don't use water unless it is a complete. Now here is a question. If you are doing a p/c how do you keep the crankcase free of gunk? :confused: That is my biggest problem I have.
 
If I am doing a complete tear down
1. Large brush
2. Pressure washer
3. Dry with compressed air
4. Solvent tank with mineral spirits
5. WD-40 and clean rags

I don't use water unless it is a complete. Now here is a question. If you are doing a p/c how do you keep the crankcase free of gunk? :confused: That is my biggest problem I have.

I strip the saw down to crankcase and cylinder, block off all holes and give it a bath
 
I use gas as well, good way to use up stale/contaminated fuel. Put the saw in a plastic tub, pour some on, i use toothbrushes, small screwdriver, small soft wire brush to pick out the crud. I have a parts washer but generally try to keep it clean for assembly work etc. With the gas i just discard it as it gets too dirty (good weed killer too!) I use brake clean on all surfaces requiring sealer before assembly, and bolts that need sealed. Throttle body cleaner is designed to remove carbon build up, and works very well for that. Canadian tire has a product called autoglym that shines up dull plastic nicely, and protects from uv. Like the drag racers say, alcohol is for drinkin, gasloline's for washin parts, nitro's for racin!
 
I use a screwdriver and pick to get off the clods. Then I use the air compressor to blow off as much as possible before starting the disassembly. I have a TSC 20 gallon parts washer that has been modified to pump the PSC-1000 solvent sold by TSC (which is just naptha) and it has a flow thru brush which is handy. I would like to use a water based solvent but I can't guarantee that my washer will not freeze in the winter. For the pine pitch, I use denatured alcohol and a rag which does a good job. I used to use gasoline but it gave me headaches and my wife hated the smell of my clothes afterwards.
 
- Compressed air is the best, if you have access to a compressor;
- Rags or paper towels;
- Old toothbrushes;
- Sharpened popsicle sticks to scrape and poke in corners without scratching (cut at angle with side cutters);
- Q-tips (for holes in recoil cover);
- 'No-Scratch' ScotchBrite;
- Formula 409 or citrus based degreaser in spray bottle;
- ArmorAll for coating plastic parts after.

Chains are separate:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

Philbert
 
If I was tearing down a saw for a re-build, I suppose that I would set up a bath with a water-based degreaser, and the ultrasonic cleaner for smaller, precision parts (screws, etc.).

Philbert
 
I use a partswasher, it cleans them up really nice,after that I rinse it in hot water and then blow it dry with compressed air. I have never had a problem, the only problem is that after an hour of cutting it's usually filthy again. Chainsaws by nature are filthy dirty animals.
 
I have been using my little harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner for screws and small parts with little crevices. I put the parts in a plastic container or glass jar that is full of odorless mineral spirits and the cleaner's tank is full of water. I usually turn it on for 15 minutes or so, works great to clean up ugly screws and carbs that won't work right after a rebuild.

I have the larger Harbor freight parts washer tank filled with 7 or 8 gallons of odorless mineral spirits (I have a little shop area in the basement next to our laundry room and have to keep the smell down because my wife is very sensitive (bitchy) about cleaning solvent odors.

One word of note, do not buy the kleen strip GREEN- enviro friendly oderless mineral spirits..... It sucks.... like goo.... not clear at all and doesn't clean worth a crap.

I tend to walk outside the house and spray the loose crud off the saws with my air hose, then I use brushes of different sizes and add brake cleaner when necessary. I need to try a bottle of simple green to be more environmentally friendly though... If I take off the parts from the saw, they will go in the parts washer tank. The mineral spirits really do a good job cleaning and evaporate when blown off with compressed air.

I may try the WD-40 as a last step to keep crud from sticking the next time......
 

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