Saw fires & yanks starter handle out of my hand. Why?

[workshop]

Also, try wearing gloves.

 

[old-cat]

Pulling the f/w to look see is fine BUT you need to re install it in max retard position by using a piston stop and turn the f/w clockwise against the key while you tighten the nut.

 

[NewToStihl]

I would consider it the nature of the beast. For me, big saws are just harder to pull over. While you can work with the timing by modifying things, they were built with the timing in a fixed position for a reason. You shouldn't have to mess with it unless you're looking for more or less power. Sounds like you need to adjust your starting technique. Try easing it past TDC slowly, then let rope retract again. Then pull like there's no tomorrow. If you give that rope enough speed, you won't have a problem.

I tried making the starting attempt with the piston just past TDC based on advice from ELECT6845 & it made no difference. I'm far from being too good to take advice, but the biggest reason I wanted to get feedback via this thread is because I'm using the same starting technique I use for my other two 090's as well as my two 070's. Never once have I encountered this with any of the other four 1106 series saws. I've also had the opportunity to run another 090AV nearly identical to this one and it had no issue.

 

[NewToStihl]

Also, try wearing gloves.

Roger that, I always wear gloves when working on saws. I'm way too good at drawing blood not to take as many precautions as possible!

 

[jughead500]

Dont get me started on the bruised calf muscles from the big bore 2 stroke bikes. Man the old cz400's husky 430's and honda cr500's akways kicked back at the wrong time.with the cr's it was TDC or you was hurtin.

 

[NewToStihl]

Pulling the f/w to look see is fine BUT you need to re install it in max retard position by using a piston stop and turn the f/w clockwise against the key while you tighten the nut.

That's an interesting point. It never really occurred to me that there would be enough play to make a difference, but I suppose every thousandth of an inch counts on a subject like this. I'll give that a try tomorrow.

 

[machinisttx]

Are the starter pawls free? No burrs or anything that could be causing them to bind and hang up in the flywheel?

 

[NewToStihl]

Are the starter pawls free? No burrs or anything that could be causing them to bind and hang up in the flywheel?

It has the friction shoe type starter, no traditional pawls. I looked everything over when I pulled the starter cover to access the flywheel and all looked well and seemed to move freely. Good thought though; I'll look again more closely tomorrow.

 

[67L36Driver]

Two things to see here: 'Note to self' and a cushioned 'D' handle.



Poulan Pro 655BP and he will rip you a new one.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Two things to see here: 'Note to self' and a cushioned 'D' handle.

View attachment 325663

Poulan Pro 655BP and he will rip you a new one.

How many times did he bite you before you wrote yourself that note? Might be my next mod.

 

[XSKIER]

I tried making the starting attempt with the piston just past TDC based on advice from ELECT6845 & it made no difference. I'm far from being too good to take advice, but the biggest reason I wanted to get feedback via this thread is because I'm using the same starting technique I use for my other two 090's as well as my two 070's. Never once have I encountered this with any of the other four 1106 series saws. I've also had the opportunity to run another 090AV nearly identical to this one and it had no issue.

Are those saws electronic?

 

[alderman]

Don't laugh but the first little Shindaiwa 500 I had would fight back on occasion to the point of breaking several starter ropes.
I'm not much of a saw mechanic so I never got into the why. I just lived with it, wore gloves, put on as long of a starter rope it would handle along with a softer handle and tried not to short stroke it when it came time to yank.
I've probably run a dozen of these little saws over the years and found some to be more prone than others, but none as bad as the first one.

 

[raycarr]

I remember being handed a Super 250 and being told to pull the starter rope "like a man" Yeah, you did or the saw would punish you.

 

[NewToStihl]

Are those saws electronic?

Nope.

 

[XSKIER]

Nope.

I have noticed before that poor breaker point condition and incorrect gap will cause the symptoms you describe. Continuing to operate it in this condition may lead to detonation damage of the pee and sea. The saw is trying to tell you it's not happy. Listen to it.

 

[old-cat]

A wide points gap advances the timing! And that could very easily be where the problem is.

 

[blsnelling]

Y'all are just a bunch of girlie men

 

[rocketnorton]

A wide points gap advances the timing! And that could very easily be where the problem is.

I for one get lazy... if theres fire, good enough... had a skil 1690 [139cc], always pullin back & breakin ropes... a few min spent checkin point gap might have cured that

 

[old-cat]

Y'all are just a bunch of girlie men

I can't believe you've never had a saw with a serious kicking problem! If you've ever been kicked by a horse, you don't think it's a girlie thing to stay away from the hind end of them critters!

 

[blsnelling]

Yeah, I've been bit My 084 will put a hurtin on ya if you forget to push the decomp.