Scored my first project saw...Stihl 026 - pics

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Jimbo45

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Well, the the addiction has started. After buying my new MS290 less than two weeks ago, the bug has infected me. I have ordered a bunch of parts to revamp my 16 year old poulan, and been looking for a project 026. I wanted an 026, since that was the very first good chainsaw I have had experience with, when I was younger. I cut a ton of trees with my best friend that summer, and he is sadly, and tragically, not with us any more. I loved that 026, and it was his. I want to have a nice, working one, to remember him.

This morning, I came across a nice gentlemen selling an older 026 on c-list, and made an offer, to which he accepted. I made the drive, expecting a 14" bar (when I wanted a 16"), and to my surprise, it was a 16". It seemed to have good compression and ran fine once started (choke is inop for some reason). So, I brought it home!

First looks, I notice the air cleaner cover bolt is crooked for some reason, gonna have to look into that, and the choke does not engage with the lever, it just snaps back up. A brief look at the choke linkage, didn't reveal the issue yet. The bar nuts also seem to gouge the clutch cover to, for some reason....these older Stihl's use washers under the bar nuts?

So, I am headed out to tear it down and clean it up, and check it over. Anyone have a good way to brighten up this old yellowed Stihl white/gray plastic? It looks very oil stained and was wondering if there was a way to safely brighten it up? Any way to find out how old it is? The ANSI sticker number has a "1985" at the end, so I assume its around that age. Wow, a 28 year old saw?

Here are some before pics....

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With that angled air filter cover knob....I can tell you, there is only one tab on the latch engaging one of the air filter nuts.

The choke is in the filter. There is a small white plastic tab that hangs down on the right hand side of the filter that engages another tab/cam on the master control rod. Take a look there.

Pull the filter off and manipulate the choke tab by hand and see if the choke door is closing fully.

Tony
 
Thanks Tony, yep, I figured out the issue with the choke, things just weren't put together right. Also, the previous owner apparently scrubbed all of the filter fibers off the filter...all that is left is the metal screen! I also found one of the muffler bolts to be stripped in the head, so I will be fixing that, as well as getting a new airfilter.

The piston/cyl look good, and I got the saw all cleaned up using purple power and a hose (I plugged the carb and oiler holes). But, that apparently wasn't a good idea, since now it wont fire. What the heck? It ran fine before the washing. I have washed other saws in this manner, and they still fire right up. I guess I got something electrical wet that I shouldn't have. I guess I am now looking for a new coil. I did check for spark, and it does spark, but its a reddish weak spark, and not the bright blue/white spark I am used to seeing from spark plugs.

I will post pics when I get it all dolled up, and working right.
 
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Remove the coil and clean all the rust off where it mounts, the rust from the ends of the armature, and the the rust from the magnet on the flywheel.

Re-adjust the coil with a business card between it and the flywheel.

Then see what your spark looks like?
 
Remove the coil and clean all the rust off where it mounts, the rust from the ends of the armature, and the the rust from the magnet on the flywheel.

Re-adjust the coil with a business card between it and the flywheel.

Then see what your spark looks like?

.will right now...stand by....
 
Might as well go in for a new air filter if it is showing screen. The lack of "flocking" will allow the filter to inject dust and otherwise "saw-hash" and prematurely score the saw. Most often when the plastic on the rewind and tank are brownish, there is no looking back (although I am always open to new ideas -- I've worked on scores of these saws).

Sounds like since you prematurely doused it you need to carefully remove the covers and give it a good detailed cleaning. As has been suggested give the coil/flywheel the attention it needs as well. Once the plastic is flat-faded as pictured you can restore it. There are quite a few threads here on cleaning/sanding/clear coating it. (Use the search function). Otherwise these are great saws and a great project for you to work on. Keep the pictures coming, there are plenty of great guys here to help answer your questions. Have a great weekend! :chainsaw:
 
Make sure you check your fuel line! I had one from that era that I fixed up and when I touched the fuel line to pull the filter off the line crumbled....it was cracked all the way to the carb. I would do the impulse line too while you're at it....
 
Remove the coil and clean all the rust off where it mounts, the rust from the ends of the armature, and the the rust from the magnet on the flywheel.

Re-adjust the coil with a business card between it and the flywheel.

Then see what your spark looks like?

Bingo. I did all the above, and while doing so, noticed a bunch of electrical tape wrapped around the plug wire, and ground and ignition wires. I suspect they got nicked over time, by the sharp edge of the upper engine mount washer, and shorted, and someone taped them up. I ripped off all that tape, which was wet inside. I have a feeling water inside that bundle of tape was shorting the ignition. I temporarily re wrapped them dry, put it together, and bammo., it ran like a banshee!

Might as well go in for a new air filter if it is showing screen. The lack of "flocking" will allow the filter to inject dust and otherwise "saw-hash" and prematurely score the saw. Most often when the plastic on the rewind and tank are brownish, there is no looking back (although I am always open to new ideas -- I've worked on scores of these saws).

Sounds like since you prematurely doused it you need to carefully remove the covers and give it a good detailed cleaning. As has been suggested give the coil/flywheel the attention it needs as well. Once the plastic is flat-faded as pictured you can restore it. There are quite a few threads here on cleaning/sanding/clear coating it. (Use the search function). Otherwise these are great saws and a great project for you to work on. Keep the pictures coming, there are plenty of great guys here to help answer your questions. Have a great weekend! :chainsaw:

Yes, I am going to order a new air filter, upper cover screen, plug, and a front mount bushing tomorrow. I will look for threads addressing the faded plastic. Thanks.

Make sure you check your fuel line! I had one from that era that I fixed up and when I touched the fuel line to pull the filter off the line crumbled....it was cracked all the way to the carb. I would do the impulse line too while you're at it....

Good call, that was the only issue with my poulan after 16 years....rotted fuel lines. I will get some ordered.


Thanks guys, for all the help, this has been fun, and I cant wait to get my tune up parts, and finish cleaning it up, inspect the bar and sharpen the chains. This one is gonna be a keeper!
 
A few more pre-cleanup pics from Friday...

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Then, tonight, a closer inspection, and making a list of parts needed.....

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A quick question; is there supposed to be a rubber bushing, at the front of the tank/handle housing, on the left hand side (recoil starter side)? I notice the circular black rubber bushing on the right hand (clutch) side, but the on the left side, it appears that the previous owner installed a section of red heater automotive hose in the triangular opening of the frame housing end, to limit the movement of the metal post that comes off the crankcase, and enters the channel in the frame housing. I looked all over the IPL's, and see no grommet or bushing that is supposed to go there!? Is the post just suppose to bang around in that triangular opening in the plastic? Did the previous owner put the heater hose section in the frame, to limit movement? See the pics....

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I think I have my parts order list complete, except for what I am told on the need for a front lower frame bushing or not. Oh, and the fuel tank vent (upright strange style), leaks eveytime I turn the saw over, so I need to address that. Is there supposed to be a rubber diaphram valve stuck in that hole/slot, from inside the tank, at the bottom of the upright vent stack? Mine has nothing, and I would bet there is supposed to be something there.

TIA
 
Stopped by the Stihl isle and picked up a new 18" bar and chain for this project. The 16˝ bar it came with, is at the end of its useful life, and the Oregon chains weren't worth much. Now, tomorrow I'll order filters, fuel hose, impulse line, some screws, bumper spike, oil line and pickup, some grommets, and other odds and ends. Then redo some of the wiring and fix the stripped muffler bolt, and she will be ready to go. I decided not the paint the crankcase just yet. Once it needs crank seals or a top end, I will tear it all down and paint the case. I did clean and clear coat the orange plastics, since they were so faded, and will paint the muffler, but that's it for now....I want to use this saw.

Any thoughts on the left side front grommet? Still not sure what part would/ could go in there.

Also, on the fuel tank vent. This one has the older black tower stack type vent, with a brass screw at the top, and one tiny grub screw up inside. No filter. Is there supposed to be a filter in there? I just don't understand this vent stack....what the heck are the screws for? They are not drilled, so I assume there is no fuel or air passing by them!? Why are they there? Why make a hole in a vent, then plug it with two screws? I did remove the grub screw to inspect, then just put it back in (I assume it just gets screwed all the way in, and not indexed at some spot). The vent leaks a lot when the saw is upside down. I have read that adding the little red umbrella looking rubber valve in the hole going to the vent will solve the leak. But, I still don't understand this vent system, with all its screws.

Thanks for all the help so far guys, and when I get some parts in, and make progress, I will post more pics.

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Also, on the fuel tank vent. This one has the older black tower stack type vent, with a brass screw at the top, and one tiny grub screw up inside. No filter. Is there supposed to be a filter in there? I just don't understand this vent stack....what the heck are the screws for? They are not drilled, so I assume there is no fuel or air passing by them!? Why are they there? Why make a hole in a vent, then plug it with two screws? I did remove the grub screw to inspect, then just put it back in (I assume it just gets screwed all the way in, and not indexed at some spot). The vent leaks a lot when the saw is upside down. I have read that adding the little red umbrella looking rubber valve in the hole going to the vent will solve the leak. But, I still don't understand this vent system, with all its screws.

Thanks for all the help so far guys, and when I get some parts in, and make progress, I will post more pics.


I think that grub screw should have a very very tiny hole all the way through it. You might need a magnifier to see it. I have an old Homelite XL that was my mom's and I inherited it when she passed, and upon cleaning it up and replacing fuel and oil lines I learned about the grub screws the hard way. The oil line on this little Homelite is supposed to have one...I trashed the old line before I knew about the grub screw. The little thing runs like a champ, but it will empty the oil tank in about 30 seconds.
 
I just looked at my 026. Mine has nothing where yours has the piece of hose....... Looks kinda like something should go there but I'm not sure. Mabey someone else can enlighten us?
 
I just looked at my 026. Mine has nothing where yours has the piece of hose....... Looks kinda like something should go there but I'm not sure. Mabey someone else can enlighten us?

Yes, maybe someone else can look at their 026. My father in law has one....I need to take a look at his when I get a chance.
 
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Grub screws are generally pushed into the line rather than screwing them into place. Very counter-intuitive but pushing them prevents the threads from seating so tightly in the line that they do not leak slightly as they are supposed to do. Some have microscopic holes in them, most rely on the thread "leaking" to vent the tank.
 
My 026 has rubber bushing on the left side where you have yours bolted tight to the case.
 
My 026 has rubber bushing on the left side where you have yours bolted tight to the case.

Yes, On The Left Side As You Look From Bottom, Or The Clutch Side, Mine Has The Rubber Bushing. What About The Other Side Of The Plastic Handle Frame Piece? On The PullStart Side, Does Yours Simply Have The Little Metal post From the Crankcase BouncingAround In The Little Triangular Channel In The Plastic Handle Frame Piece? Or Is There A Bushing On That Side Too?
 
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