scoring in 046....how bad is this

[cedarshark]

Thats what I have...will work fine.

 

[PaulB84]

Getting to the point now where I'm not sure if the transfer is gone or just polished to the point where I can't see it. There are definitely minor score marks on both sides, intake and exhaust. Mostly below exhaust.

Still looking OK?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

looking good. now put it together and run it like you stole it.

 

[cedarshark]

My only concern would be the scratch under your exhaust port. If I could not feel the scratch with the tip of a dental pick, I would run it.

 

[PaulB84]

looking good. now put it together and run it like you stole it.

But but but I'm still at 120 grit! Haha good to know jerry thanks. Got a tiny bit more transfer to get rid of up by the cylinder head, waiting on parts and the mityvac.

I tried my best to keep the crank case as clean as possible but I know some sawdust got in there when I pulled the jug. Best was to clean that area out? I'd also like to blow off the nooks and crannies w an air compressor while its all torn down, so same question. Once I do that how do I clean out the crank case? Hold it upside down and hit it w compressed air?

 

[LegDeLimber]

I'm at harbor freight being told the mityvac mv8000 does both pressure and vacuum. I think this guy is way wrong. Based on the mityvac website at least the 8020 and 8500 are the ones that do both....

This tid-bit is Assuming that the correct gauge is installed/supplied with the tool.
Look at the range of indicated pressure.
Does it read in both a positive AND a negative range?
Is the range of pressure (of the tool & gauge) sufficient for the testing you need/intend to do?

This pic is just the 1st large HF one that came up, which has a positive & negative range.
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13809.jpg
Some of the negative/vacuum testers can be jury-rigged to give a little positive pressure through the outlet/exhaust.
but that's getting a bit far off topic to delve into for now.

 

[PaulB84]

My only concern would be the scratch under your exhaust port. If I could not feel the scratch with the tip of a dental pick, I would run it.

I can feel it with a pick, but it doesn't "catch" on the tip if that makes sense. Glides right over it even w moderate pressure.

I have one good fingernail and I can run it all over the cylinder in any direction and it feels pretty damn smooth.

 

[PaulB84]

After a couple minutes w the 220 grit. The dark specs just above and below the exhaust port are the worst of the damage. They can be felt w a dental pick but not with a fingernail, even with the pick they seem to be OK to my untrained eye

Everything else is basically gone

 

[cedarshark]

But but but I'm still at 120 grit! Haha good to know jerry thanks. Got a tiny bit more transfer to get rid of up by the cylinder head, waiting on parts and the mityvac.

I tried my best to keep the crank case as clean as possible but I know some sawdust got in there when I pulled the jug. Best was to clean that area out? I'd also like to blow off the nooks and crannies w an air compressor while its all torn down, so same question. Once I do that how do I clean out the crank case? Hold it upside down and hit it w compressed air?

Yes, blow it out with compressed air. It will be fine. You can even use a water hose, then dry with compressed air. For future reference...I won't work on a saw unless its pressure washed first. I guess I am weird. Here is an 026 I rebuilt this aft with a new piston.

 

[sld961]

Blow out the crank case with compressed air, then rinse it with mix a couple times.

 

[PaulB84]

So can I clean off the saw and literally not worry what makes it in the crankcase (no metal obviously just dust wood plant matter etc) or should I make an effort to tape off the case first?

 

[PES+]

I'm

So can I clean off the saw and literally not worry what makes it in the crankcase (no metal obviously just dust wood plant matter etc) or should I make an effort to tape off the case first?

Not really a good idea...wait until you get it sealed back up

 

[PaulB84]

I'm

Not really a good idea...wait until you get it sealed back up

Got it. In other words I shoulda cleaned before breaking it down. Good to know for next time.

 

[cedarshark]

I have had saws that were so dirty they not be cleaned until the jug was off. Just stuff a rag in the crankcase pretty tight and clean as desired.

 

[PaulB84]

I have had saws that were so dirty they not be cleaned until the jug was off. Just stuff a rag in the crankcase pretty tight and clean as desired.

Great tip thank you!

 

[PaulB84]

Will I have to check or set squish upon reassembly? I'm using all factory parts. I don't recall the dimension off hand but I ordered the standard cylinder gasket, not the low compression one.

 

[drf255]

I have had saws that were so dirty they not be cleaned until the jug was off. Just stuff a rag in the crankcase pretty tight and clean as desired.

Stuffing paper towels in one side, wet with some rinse or WD40, then rotating around with the crank, can help to wipe stuff out of the crankcase as well.

I do this as a final step on most, even if nothing visually made it in there. ,

Jug looks good.

 

[cedarshark]

Will I have to check or set squish upon reassembly? I'm using all factory parts. I don't recall the dimension off hand but I ordered the standard cylinder gasket, not the low compression one.

Unless you are trying to raise compression by eliminating the base gasket, it should not be necessary for you to check squish. I do not think you are ready for that type of modification just yet. Get that saw together in stock form and running right, then take on a performance mod when you gain more experience and confidence.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

,long as you got it off more polishing with an emory cloth can help. sure wouldn't hurt.
regarding the crap in the case - blow it out while holding it upside down to get the dry crap. then flood it with mix, slosh it around to get anything that's left into "solution". while sloshing, quickly flip it over to dump the mix. repeat as you deem necessary. then blow it out again.
definitely always better to clean before removing cylinder, carb, or muff. no worry though, just clean it good.
haven't seen anything in here i'd disagree with; just everyone develops their own method. you will too. carry on.

 

[PaulB84]

Well finally got her all back together. Mixed up some 20:1 to get everything melded together nicely.... Saw will only run when I put gas directly in the cylinder. Plug is dry after 10 pulls. Obviously I have a fuel delivery issue.

I've got a brand new fuel line and filter in it, used the old intake boot and impulse line. Both were attached to the saw while I was vac/pressure testing, so I'm FAIRLY confident I somehow put a hole in the new $13 fuel line installing it too roughly... The thing is I was already worried I did that before I buttoned it up so I vac tested the fuel line on the saw (finger over filter end, vac on carb end). Held vac fine but so I didn't pressure test (stupid)...any other ideas before I pull the carb again and try the old fuel line or buy another new one?