Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Had some morning commitments which prevented me from joining thedodgegeeks, dieselfitter, and others up at the charity cut. After that I headed over to my friend's place to take down the second willow pole that the tree service left.

This one had a little more grit in it than the first tree I did for them this fall. I've got two dull chains after today but no big deal knowing how much I saved them from having to get a second tree service to come in and finish the job.

View attachment 471837 View attachment 471838 View attachment 471839 View attachment 471841

All set for some lucky craigslist scrounger to come and haul away. I refuse to burn this pee smelling junk.
View attachment 471843 View attachment 471845

If I was a local cl scrounger there I would take it. It dries up light and burns hot, doesn't smell bad either once dried, at least the willow around here doesn't.

So anyway, you still got to go to a charity cut....
 
image.jpeg
I have seen a few photos of that general style of splitter from folks in NZ and AUS. Is that the most common type down there?

Most of ours in the US are either horizontal, or horizontal/vertical. But the vertical ones split wood on the ground - don't think I have seen any that split wood on a table.

Thanks.

Philbert

Hi Philbert. The Chinese splitters are cheap and break easy. Fine if you like splitting straight grain wood. I prefer the vertical splitter with a table. The grey splitter is a vertical but lay it down for storeage and traveling.
The yellow one is good having a decent tableimage.jpegimage.jpeg the yellow one also has a log lifter which is handy. image.jpegI would have to say the table is the way to go. No bending over too much image.jpeg
 
If the log is fresh and not dried, when you cut a round the center will have a green color to it and sort of smell like green tea if it is a tulip poplar. Based on bark alone, I get ash and tulip poplar mixed up. One cut and I can tell the difference. The ash wood will be very white. Do you have any pictures of leaves?
 
Ash & Tulip look very similar on the outside, but the core wood of Tulip will be greenish or brownish. Although Ash can grow large, it often does not, and the larger the log the more likely it is Tulip (a fast growing tree). The Emerald Ash Bore has severely reduced the number of large Ash trees. (Tulip, AKA Yellow Poplar, is actually a Magnolia tree). Ash wood is much harder than Tulip.

Ash will often have some symmetrical branches (180 degrees apart), and the leaves are very different.
 
the leaves are very different.

That is an understatement. The difference in the leaves is like the difference between a bicycle and a full size pickup. Not like trying to tell the difference between a red oak/white oak which is more like telling the difference between a ford and a chevy pickup.
 
Yes definitely. That square filed loop on the shorter bar made fast work of noodling till I hit a bunch of grit in the bark. I was quite happy how well it held up cutting in this gritty crap.


Glad you like the square file, let me know how you make out sharpening it.

After I saw you, I drew two 45 degree lines on the top of that box I sharpen my saws on to help me keep the angle consistent. I move the cutter close to the line and try to keep the file parallel with the line. It helps me. I also hold a paint stirrer in the hand that does not have the file, and put it in back of the tooth to keep it from moving (much faster than setting the chain break each time). When I saw you upstate, I just used my thumb, the paint stirrer works much better.

Remember, keeping the corner of the file in the corner of the tooth is the most important thing, and don't let the side cutter get a negative lean or your chain will not feed into the wood. (The corner should contact the wood first, not the bottom of the side plate). It is OK if the side plate is 90 degrees.

I always keep this chart in mind:

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_cb_angles.htm
 

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