Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I just looked at an ad for Pherd 2 in 1 sharpener and they recommend a 13/64" file for 3/8 pitch chain which I have and a 7/32" file for 0.404. I've always used 7/32" and I can't say I've ever seen the other. The extra 64th" can't hurt can it?
I would just stick with 7/32 , you can use both but obviously , the 13/64 diameter will create a smaller radial cutting diameter but not dramatically different 7/32 just fits the character of the 3/8 chain radial edge better.
 
Do you take the gullet out of square ground chain or leave it in , many have different opinions on the subject

Professional Saw Chain -​

Understanding Cutter Teeth​

In the Pacific Northwest, there is one type of saw chain that most professional chain saw users use: square-ground chisel bit. To fully understand why so many professional saw users prefer this chain, you must first understand some basics about chain saw cutter teeth.

Cutter Tooth Shapes​

There are two basic shapes of cutter teeth. One style we call: round, and the other we call: square. The images below show these basic shapes. The one on the left is round or "chipper" cutter tooth. The image in the middle is a square or "chisel" cutter tooth. Both are sharpened round. The tooth on the right is also square tooth, but it has been ground "square." This language may be a little confusing, but a study the images below should make these differences understandable. They depict all the basic shapes and grinds that are made.

Which Cutter Is Best?​

The answer to this really depends on you. Factors like the saw you run, the work you do, how you sharpen you chain, and so on, all play a part in determining which cutter is best. The following highlights characteristics of each type:

  1. Round Chain - This chain is the easiest to sharpen. An average user can do it with a round file and have good results. It also has the best stay-sharp-ability of the three cutter teeth. Its cutting edge is more durable that those on either square tooth chain. This can be explained by the fact that the edge on a round cutter tooth is larger and better supported.
  2. Square Tooth Round Ground - This chain cuts 10-15% faster than round chain on most saws. Since it takes less power for a sharp square cutter tooth to sever wood fiber, square tooth chain almost always improves a saw's cutting performance. This chain can also be sharpened with a round file, so it is fairly easy to maintain for an average user. While it outperforms round cutters when it is sharp, its stay-sharp-ability is not as good.
  3. Square Tooth Square Ground - This chain cuts 20-25% better than round chain. A square ground chisel cutter tooth is the most efficient of the three. It offers the best cutting performance of all the cutter teeth when it is sharp. This chain can be sharpened with a special file, but most pro users sharpen it with a special square grinder. It is not a chain that is easy to maintain for an average user. Its stay-sharp-ability is also the least of the three styles of cutter teeth.

Advice​

  1. If you are a professional timber faller working in the Pacific Northwest or Alaska, use square ground chisel chain.
  2. If you use square ground chisel chain, buy a chisel grinder or become friends with someone who owns one. Filing square ground chisel chain is very difficult. Few people do it well. Of those who can file it, most would do an even better job if they had a grinder.
  3. If you cut cedar, salvage, or work in dirty conditions, use round chain. It is easier to sharpen and will hold its edge better for you.
  4. If you are working in clean wood and want the best cutting performance, but can't afford a square grinder, use round ground chisel chain. This chain performs well, is fairly easy to sharpen with a file, and will out-cut poorly filed square chisel chain every time.

A Few More Thoughts​

The stay-sharp advantage of round chain is mostly seen when working in dirty or light-abrasive conditions. A chain's stay-sharp-ability should not be confused with a chain becoming dull due to "rocking." Hitting a rock or other hard material will dull any cutter tooth -- round or square.

You will notice that harvester chain always has round cutter teeth. This type of tooth works best in this application because a round cutter tooth offers the best stay-sharp-ability. It is also the easiest chain for most operators to hand sharpen. Since harvesters are powered by a large diesel engine, a chain's cutting efficiency is not as big of a factor in cutting performance as it is with hand-held chain saws.
cutter_types.jpg
cutter_close5.jpg
 
I've been burning some bradford pear and elm that I cut last year. Neither lasts very long. Not like oak. I don't think I'll bother with any that comes up in the future. Unless I need some camp wood.
Had to fix my garden cart. Spot weld broke so I bolted on a piece of UniStrut. Used one of my Craftsman socket sets. The ratchet had been repaired years ago with a new kit, but it still doesn't work very well. Someone mentioned about them using cheap kits. With the demise of Sears, I don't guess there's any way to get warranty work done on the ratchets?
I can ask my dad he has a ton like 2000# of craftsman tools going back to the late 60's lots of warranty tools as he was a machine repair man in the steel industry, I do remember him saying that it's tougher these days as let's say your ratchet is from 1997 and doesn't look like the one you bought in 2017 so if they are not identical tools to what's on the shelf today it's a pain to warranty one out
 
Thanks guys, I'll look into it. I really like my Craftsman tools with the exception of how many sockets grow legs and walk off over the years. I wonder if other brands do that?

Got up at sunrise and it's in the mid 20s. Really not bad working weather. Zero wind and frost on the ground. Perfect morning for getting rid of my brush pile around my wood stacks that has accumulated over the Summer and Fall. Woods are 75 yards away on the West and North so I can only burn when there's at most a slight breeze out of the NW like today. Lit it up and back inside for breakfast. I can keep an eye on it from the back of the house from the deck.
IMG_1504.JPG
 
I just looked at an ad for Pherd 2 in 1 sharpener and they recommend a 13/64" file for 3/8 pitch chain which I have and a 7/32" file for 0.404. I've always used 7/32" and I can't say I've ever seen the other. The extra 64th" can't hurt can it?
Now Bailey's sites a 7/32" file for 3/8" pitch chains. I guess it really doesn't matter. If I order the 0.404 Pherd 2 in 1 jig so I get 7/32" files, will that work on 3/8" pitch chains? I don't know if the plastic handles/guides change between pitches?
 
Actually the best general tree work/falling advice I could give is to be deliberate...always make sure there is a reason for each cut you execute. Too many people just go all willy-nilly into saw work and don't have good reasons for what they do.
That's very good.
It describes my philosophy /practice exactly.
I apply it to most everything I do, not just powersaw work...... common sense (aka thinking about what you're doing) can spare a guy from a lot of pain
 
Thanks guys, I'll look into it. I really like my Craftsman tools with the exception of how many sockets grow legs and walk off over the years. I wonder if other brands do that?

Got up at sunrise and it's in the mid 20s. Really not bad working weather. Zero wind and frost on the ground. Perfect morning for getting rid of my brush pile around my wood stacks that has accumulated over the Summer and Fall. Woods are 75 yards away on the West and North so I can only burn when there's at most a slight breeze out of the NW like today. Lit it up and back inside for breakfast. I can keep an eye on it from the back of the house from the deck.
View attachment 1042271
Fee Bay has a pretty large selection of American made old school craftsmen tools if ur ever interested in buying.
 
No one else thinks those are crazy high prices?
About right on the money for a dealer . Private sale a little less I'm toying with putting my 85 on Bring A Trailer . Any 4x4 from the 60-80s are super hot now . I bought a roller 72 Bazer 5 years ago with very little rot no engine but everything there ,sold it this spring just the way I bought it made 18k profit all restored they bring mid 60 k . A nice late 80s early 90s Grand Wagoneer is in the mid 70s to 100k . Saw an original with 17k miles go for 120k at auction .

The people at BAT recommended a reserve of 25k on my truck .AFF32926-17D3-4270-A677-579412D14BFC.jpeg
Sold the Blazer for cash to get this one. Edit: unfortunately the green one sold before I got the cash
74960B87-B0E2-4C7D-83DA-AAA12B5EDB23.jpeg
 
About right on the money for a dealer . Private sale a little less I'm toying with putting my 85 on Bring A Trailer . Any 4x4 from the 60-80s are super hot now . I bought a roller 72 Bazer 5 years ago with very little rot no engine but everything there ,sold it this spring just the way I bought it made 18k profit all restored they bring mid 60 k . A nice late 80s early 90s Grand Wagoneer is in the mid 70s to 100k . Saw an original with 17k miles go for 120k at auction .

The people at BAT recommended a reserve of 25k on my truck .View attachment 1042283
Sold the Blazer for cash to get this one
View attachment 1042284
Wish I still had my 86’ Chevy HD 3/4 ton 4x4 , best truck ever had drove it for 13 years until frame got pretty bad , engine, transmission were still great .
 
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