Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Wait wait wait, There's a working corner on the tooth that needs sharpening? Dose that mean I've been unnecessarily leaning hard on my saw fir over 30 years? 🤔
Well why the devil didn't anyone make this apparent 29 years 11 months ago! 😡 Fir thirty years I've just been throwing my chains out the back door and into the bushes once they stopped working!
Yeah, that corner makes the saw work, so you dont have to, ie, more time at the house with your squaw 😅.
 
Yes and NO...

The small deere's were made overseas for many years and "some" still are, but now most of the compacts are made/assembled here out of parts that come from all over the world.

Small deere ag tractors are mostly made across the pond, big deere ag tractors are made here.

SR
I was under the impression Hitachi was affiliated with JD in a big way. My old boss told me that JD logging shovels and processor carragess where Hitachi's with green paint. Im not sure if thats entirely true though. I do know a lot of them come brand new with Hitachi booms.IMG_20220802_134155886_HDR.jpg
 
I was under the impression Hitachi was affiliated with JD in a big way. My old boss told me that JD logging shovels and processor carragess where Hitachi's with green paint. Im not sure if thats entirely true though. I do know a lot of them come brand new with Hitachi booms.
Use to be all deere track hoes were Hitachi, but I don't think that's been true for a while now, don't know about the logging side of it.

SR
 
The burrels I milled last winter are curring nicely. Hopefully one more year and they will be completely cured and ready to finish. Im STIHL not exactly sure what Im going to do with all of them. However I do see a poker table in my future! I'll probably make euro mount base plaques with the small ones.IMG_20230117_145158446_HDR.jpgIMG_20230117_145549592.jpg

I have no idea what Im going to do with this unique one. A salad serving bowl I'm guessingIMG_20230117_145752902.jpg

These will be dough kneading blocks and probably end up as gifts eventually. The one on the right is finished with the exception of hemp seed oiling. The one on the left STIHL has the kerf scares from the saw chainIMG_20230117_144208954.jpg

I Milled all these with my 60" Grandberg and an old worn out 660. The power head blew the top end halfway through my second to last cut through the big burrel on the bottom stack in the corner. 52" across and hard hard wood fir Spruce! Its dense heavy burrel wood no doubt. That power head was most definitely "OVERLOADED" while pulling the wider kerfs. I bought the 62" Forester felling bar just to do these burrels. Probably already paid for its self.
 
Rule of thumb 10 to 15 one tap ,15 to 20 two , 25 and over 3 . I don’t go over 2 myself . My taps require a 5/16 drill bit and I drill on a slight upward angle into the tree sap wood I never go deeper the 1 1/4 on smaller trees and 1 1/2 inch on large trees.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to give it a shot would be nice to make some syrup from our property.
 
The burrels I milled last winter are curring nicely. Hopefully one more year and they will be completely cured and ready to finish. Im STIHL not exactly sure what Im going to do with all of them. However I do see a poker table in my future! I'll probably make euro mount base plaques with the small ones.View attachment 1049500View attachment 1049506

I have no idea what Im going to do with this unique one. A salad serving bowl I'm guessingView attachment 1049508

These will be dough kneading blocks and probably end up as gifts eventually. The one on the right is finished with the exception of hemp seed oiling. The one on the left STIHL has the kerf scares from the saw chainView attachment 1049499

I Milled all these with my 60" Grandberg and an old worn out 660. The power head blew the top end halfway through my second to last cut through the big burrel on the bottom stack in the corner. 52" across and hard hard wood fir Spruce! Its dense heavy burrel wood no doubt. That power head was most definitely "OVERLOADED" while pulling the wider kerfs. I bought the 62" Forester felling bar just to do these burrels. Probably already paid for its self.
Those are gonna be sweet.
Good thing you missed that nail in the second picture, could have messed up that working corner 😆.
 
Those are gonna be sweet.
Good thing you missed that nail in the second picture, could have messed up that working corner 😆.
I ac
Those are gonna be sweet.
Good thing you missed that nail in the second picture, could have messed up that working corner 😆.
🤣I actually set that there fir size references just before I took the picture! Its a 16P galvi
 
The saw cut a lot better, but it's still not where it should be. Cut a few rounds of Ash first and then went after some 22" dia. RO. Cut pretty good in the big stuff. Only a slight curve to the right. More noticeable when noodling. Made a decent load out of 4 rounds of RO and Ash.
View attachment 1049463
Check your bar to see if the tracks are even.
 
I knew someone put it there, I was just messing around.

How many scratches have you put in the XXL war wagon so far, or you been too sick.
I did one six round haul with the OG Honda War Wagon. Just now getting my energy level back to half a** par. I haven't even used the new XXL yet. I'm STIHL in the market fir a loader. Hard to find one that doesn't have to be shipped from down south. Even then Its gotta be a fairly low hour machine. I think I found a one ton Pickup to tow the trailer. Six pack and eight foot bed. Chevy automatic. What I wouldn't do fir a Cummins 12 valve 3/4 ton or one ton with a standard in decent shape. Or a Ford 7.3 with a standard even.
 
I knew someone put it there, I was just messing around.

How many scratches have you put in the XXL war wagon so far, or you been too sick.
Yeh, that might be it too. I filed the burrs off the bar not too long ago and I'm going to have to do it again. Need to look up how to chech if a 0.063 bar is worn out. After I have all my chains straightened out, I get a new bar if it still does it.
 
Yeh, that might be it too. I filed the burrs off the bar not too long ago and I'm going to have to do it again. Need to look up how to chech if a 0.063 bar is worn out. After I have all my chains straightened out, I get a new bar if it still does it.
If you don't have one of these, they are well worth it ( top left)Screenshot_20230117-225059.png
 
I have an equipment trader looking all over down south for either a Skid Steer or 60-70 hp tractor. He found this one in Texas I almost jumped on. unfortunately it is 12" to wide fir my trailer.
82 hp, one owner, less than 500 hrs and pre emissions with remote third function. It would have cost 3000 just to get it to Seattle to ship north then another 2500 to put it on a barge from Seattle to Kodiak. It just happens to be a Kubota, but Im thinking any 60-70 hp reputable tractor make will due. I just don't want a JD. Seems everyone thinks they are the best or something, or maybe just on the Ban Wagon. A Ford or Massy would do just fine! NH, Montana T, LS, AC anything but a Green Machine.Heck, I'd even settle fir a rubber tracked Caterpillar with GPS tracking, Blue Tooth and a mini bar! 🤔I think a reverse mortgage might cover one in fair condition? 🤣
Screenshot_20230104_115424_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20230104_115417_Chrome.jpg
 
Yeh, that might be it too. I filed the burrs off the bar not too long ago and I'm going to have to do it again. Need to look up how to chech if a 0.063 bar is worn out. After I have all my chains straightened out, I get a new bar if it still does it.
I think you quoted me on accident, but now you'll have to deal with me responding lol.
Post some pictures of the rails of the bar in question and we'll advise.
If the rails are flat on the top with no burrs and not dug out in the center by the slot, the bar should be able to stand up on end if it's a level surface.
 
On another note, I've mentioned beefing up my 5'x8' SA trailer. I had bent the cross members a little. I'm about 5/8" lower in the center than at the ends of the cross members (3/16" Th x 2" x 2" angle). My question for those of you who weld on trailers, can you think of any method to straighten the cross member?
My first thought was to make something like a gear/flywheel puller attached to the ends of the cross member and then put a bottle jack in the center to try to press it straight. Pretty stupid, I know besides only having a 2 ton jack.

Any realistic ideas? Or would you just weld plates to the frame where the new pipe would mate and then weld any where the two meet>
View attachment 1049473
You could plate that joint on 4 sides and be fine. I’ve seen many a custom framed 4x4 rig done that way when doing a frame modification. There is a trick to it, however. Go with < > rather than just a rectangle plate.
 

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