Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[chipper1]

I have an equipment trader looking all over down south for either a Skid Steer or 60-70 hp tractor. He found this one in Texas I almost jumped on. unfortunately it is 12" to wide fir my trailer.
82 hp, one owner, less than 500 hrs and pre emissions with remote third function. It would have cost 3000 just to get it to Seattle to ship north then another 2500 to put it on a barge from Seattle to Kodiak. It just happens to be a Kubota, but Im thinking any 60-70 hp reputable tractor make will due. I just don't want a JD seems everyone thinks they are the best or something maybe just on the Ban Wagon. A Ford or Massy would do just fine! NH, Montana T, LS, AC anything but a Green Machine.
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Well, I like the orange for sure, but I think that's a lot big for the new trailer.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Sharpened six 3/8×84dl stihl RS chains today and one 3/8×72dl Oregon with the anti-vibe ramps on it. Went well, but they were damaged quite a way back.
This one had been touched up by someone, but whatever they used only hit the cutter about an 1/8" down. Funny when guys say a shop ground half their cutters off when they sharpened their chains; well if you beat the heck out of them so much that the working corner is damaged back half way, I guess they probably would need to remove a lot of material to actually get them sharp. Also, none of the rakers had been touched on any of these chains.
These take me a lot of time as I start at the front and clean the gullet out. But, when they are done, they cut straight, self feed, and are easy to sharpen with a file or with a grinder the next time it's needed.
Sorry the pictures aren't better, my lens is cracked on my phone.
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I always grind those “safety” bumps off whenever I get one of ‘those’ chains

 

[chipper1]

I always grind those “safety” bumps off whenever I get one of ‘those’ chains

These were just the anti-vibe humps, not the shark fin safety ones . I grind those off myself, I think I'm down to about 1/2 a 5 gallon bucket of home-depot safety chains now lol. I have a pretty good system on them now and they actually cut very well, self feed, and will bore when I get finished with them, unfortunately it takes around a half hr to get one set up.
The bummer about the 20" chain I did is that because of the anti-vibe humps, I can't toss the chain on the raker grinder as it doesn't take those down at all. When the chains are on the raker grinder they are fully open as they go around the wheel . At least the others I did were tossed on there and the raker grinder was working while I was .

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Well, I like the orange for sure, but I think that's a lot big for the new trailer.

That's what im saying. It is 12" to wide. Weight is not the Issue the trailer can pack 10,000 lbs. The Tractor is almost but just under 9k lbs if I remember. That's without liquid in the tires or counter weights but I don't think Id need either with a tractor of that size.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

These were just the anti-vibe humps, not the shark fin safety ones . I grind those off myself, I think I'm down to about 1/2 a 5 gallon bucket of home-depot safety chains now lol. I have a pretty good system on them now and they actually cut very well, self feed, and will bore when I get finished with them, unfortunately it takes around a half hr to get one set up.
The bummer about the 20" chain I did is that because of the anti-vibe humps, I can't toss the chain on the raker grinder as it doesn't take those down at all. When the chains are on the raker grinder they are fully open as they go around the wheel . At least the others I did were tossed on there and the raker grinder was working while I was .

I actually like the anti KB chain on my 260 with the 16" Im so use to longer bars that I catch the tip much more often with the small saw. The AKB .325 definitely dose its job! Didn't think Id like it at all at first, but now Im a believer when run'n stub bars. Don't think I'll ever go back to anything aggressive in .325 or any chain in 3/8 at all on a stub bar. If I want to shred the gnarly I'll just grab a Full Wrap power saw.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

I’ve been looking for the right deal on a skidsteer for about 2 years. I’m probably just gonna go buy a brand new Kubota 75 series with tracks

 

[djg james]

I think you quoted me on accident, but now you'll have to deal with me responding lol.
Post some pictures of the rails of the bar in question and we'll advise.
If the rails are flat on the top with no burrs and not dug out in the center by the slot, the bar should be able to stand up on end if it's a level surface.

Sorry for that. I don't know how that happened. In my defense, it was past my bed time .
I check it out in a couple of days and get back to all of you. Thanks

 

[djg james]

You could plate that joint on 4 sides and be fine. I’ve seen many a custom framed 4x4 rig done that way when doing a frame modification. There is a trick to it, however. Go with < > rather than just a rectangle plate.

I'm not quite sure I understand what you're saying. "4 sides"? "< >" weld a 6" long plate onto the side frame? You got to forgive me. I'm a little dense.

 

[501Maico]

Man was I wrong. I've been sharpening by hand the chain on the saw as I use. Every now and then try to knock down the rakers with I flat file I had. It didn't cut so well. I bought the Pherd file/guide tool and just got done going over the chain once with it. The chain had been cutting but not putting out big chips. Had trouble cutting through a Sassafras log and I said enough.
Tried the tool out today and I already can see the mistakes I've been making. Man was I wrong! The teeth sharpened from the nut side of the bar where sharpened at too acute of an angle (pointier) while the muffler side was at the correct angle. Also, the rakers on the nut side were not filed down as much as the other side. I still need more filing to get it down to where it should be, but I'm going to see if there's anything at the log yard for me to see how it's cutting. Some 24" Red Oak I know of???
I also need to get a couple of vises to clamp the bar in. I've been doing it with just a block of wood under the bar so it wouldn't teeter. My Dad had a nice one out in the garage and when we disposed of his house, I left it there thinking i couldn't take anything attached. Found out new homeowners gutted the garage. Could have mounted that on my tailgate. Need a clamp on version for my new table saw work surface in the basement too.

I have some Pferds and like them so far. Occasionally I'll come across comments that say the Pferd round file sits higher than a common file guide. I have the measuring equipment that can compare both but haven't taken the time to do it yet. I did notice when sharpening a 3/8" chain that was previously sharpened with a file guide, there were uncleaned lower surfaces on the cutters. Now that I'm typing this and thinking more about it, I most likely had the larger 7/32" file in the file guide and the Pferds use the smaller Stihl 13/64" files which would account for what I saw.

 

[djg james]

I have some Pferds and like them so far. Occasionally I'll come across comments that say the Pferd round file sits higher than a common file guide. I have the measuring equipment that can compare both but haven't taken the time to do it yet. I did notice when sharpening a 3/8" chain that was previously sharpened with a file guide, there were uncleaned lower surfaces on the cutters. Now that I'm typing this and thinking more about it, I most likely had the larger 7/32" file in the file guide and the Pferds use the smaller Stihl 3/8" files which would account for what I saw.

I've been using a 7/32" file on my 3/8 chains. The Pherd guide for 3/8 chains uses a 13/64" file.

 

[501Maico]

Yeah, I looked up the Stihl file size and edited my post.

 

[WoodAbuser]

I think you quoted me on accident, but now you'll have to deal with me responding lol.
Post some pictures of the rails of the bar in question and we'll advise.
If the rails are flat on the top with no burrs and not dug out in the center by the slot, the bar should be able to stand up on end if it's a level surface.

You may need to wear a tie when you do rail work. Pretty sure the chipper1 does. At least from pix he has posted.

 

[Squareground3691]

Big machine, clearing state road sides , the reach is pretty far .

 

[farmer steve]

Move over Fiskars.

 

[sean donato]

Untill 2021 (I think) Hitachi made all the excavators and forestry equipment for deere. Wacker makes rhe smaller stuff now and deere took over the heavy stuff, so I'm sure it will be twice as expensive and half as reliable now. The deere/Hitachi partnership was one of the best moves both companies did. Excellent machines imo. Some of my favorite to run and work on. I've never been shy about not liking deeres tactics with making customers return to them for parts and services. I'm glad the right to repair went in the customers favors.

 

[sean donato]

@Kodiak Kid, it's not hard to gain a lot of weight on a tractor, and you'll need ballast with loader work. My little B series is just under 2klbs dry weight. few hundred pounds for the loader, tire ballast (in my case) added almost 400lbs, then 800lb weight box on the 3 point. I'd be lying if I said it didn't need that extra weight just to lift the sub 1klbs the loader can handle.

 

[Vtrombly]

These were just the anti-vibe humps, not the shark fin safety ones . I grind those off myself, I think I'm down to about 1/2 a 5 gallon bucket of home-depot safety chains now lol. I have a pretty good system on them now and they actually cut very well, self feed, and will bore when I get finished with them, unfortunately it takes around a half hr to get one set up.
The bummer about the 20" chain I did is that because of the anti-vibe humps, I can't toss the chain on the raker grinder as it doesn't take those down at all. When the chains are on the raker grinder they are fully open as they go around the wheel . At least the others I did were tossed on there and the raker grinder was working while I was .

I actually like the anti KB chain on my 260 with the 16" Im so use to longer bars that I catch the tip much more often with the small saw. The AKB .325 definitely dose its job! Didn't think Id like it at all at first, but now Im a believer when run'n stub bars. Don't think I'll ever go back to anything aggressive in .325 or any chain in 3/8 at all on a stub bar. If I want to shred the gnarly I'll just grab a Full Wrap power saw.

My Pioneer P28 has .325 on it and I actually like it allot. Its the only saw I have in that configuration. Maybe its just me but it seems like it has less vibration than my 3/8 in the same type of chain. I don't seem to mind the safety chain on the limbing saws. I have the two small Poulan 2300 top handles that seem to eat pretty well even with the safety chain. I don't do much bore cutting with these saws. I've used them to buck up stuff up to around 14 inches and it seems to be good enough. I guess I haven't tested it but I thought the shark fins just block the cutters at the nose of the bar and have no real effect when bucking or limbing because they are lower than the drags. Maybe I'm incorrect but ill have to try both and see whether the extra effort into grinding the fins produce any advantage in bucking and limbing to make it worth while in the application I'm using them for. I was able to get 18in Oregon safety for under 10 bucks shipped vs in the 20s for standard. For dirty firewood I'm not complaining. I also have at least 10 plus chains for multiple 16in bars for the same saws.

 

[chipper1]

That's what im saying. It is 12" to wide. Weight is not the Issue the trailer can pack 10,000 lbs. The Tractor is almost but just under 9k lbs if I remember. That's without liquid in the tires or counter weights but I don't think Id need either with a tractor of that size.

Just because it's rated a specific weight doesn't mean you can balance a load of that weight in/on it. I've hauled loads that were way more than a trailer was rated for and it hauled great, and I've hauled loads way less than a trailer was rated for that weren't nearly as pretty . I hate seeing a truck/trailer going down the road either loaded heavy on the tongue or to the tail.

 

[chipper1]

My Pioneer P28 has .325 on it and I actually like it allot. Its the only saw I have in that configuration. Maybe its just me but it seems like it has less vibration than my 3/8 in the same type of chain. I don't seem to mind the safety chain on the limbing saws. I have the two small Poulan 2300 top handles that seem to eat pretty well even with the safety chain. I don't do much bore cutting with these saws. I've used them to buck up stuff up to around 14 inches and it seems to be good enough. I guess I haven't tested it but I thought the shark fins just block the cutters at the nose of the bar and have no real effect when bucking or limbing because they are lower than the drags. Maybe I'm incorrect but ill have to try both and see whether the extra effort into grinding the fins produce any advantage in bucking and limbing to make it worth while in the application I'm using them for. I was able to get 18in Oregon safety for under 10 bucks shipped vs in the 20s for standard. For dirty firewood I'm not complaining. I also have at least 10 plus chains for multiple 16in bars for the same saws.

I do a lot of bore cutting, so off they come. Also when sharpening they should always be below the rakers as you said, and even the anti-vibe humps get in the way of filing the rakers, how much more the actual safety humps. Regardless, I don't run the one with safety humps, but the ones with the smaller anti-vibe humps are no problem and to not typically slow boring.

Look at how much extra filing was involved just for the anti-vibe humps , while they don't slow the cut(for average cutting), it's more time per cut when you have to mess with this crap.
Look at the one by my thumb, that's a lot of extra filing.

 

[chipper1]

Move over Fiskars.

If only she had orange hair .