Season wood question

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supersammy

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I have to buy a few cords of wood because I ran out. I called a few places that I have used in the past and they are all sold out. One guy has seasoned wood that was cut 2 years ago but he splits it now based on orders. I don't think it would be ready to burn yet due to its just getting split now. I will be burning this is a wood stove insert.
 
Any port in a storm, especially if the price is right. He is probably drying the wood in log length and cutting/splitting to order with a processor. The wood will not be ideal, but should dry quickly if properly stacked. Use the old school trick and bring small amounts into the house and stack it around your stove to help dry it. You can also stack small amounts in the basement and put a fan on it. The moving air will help dry the wood. You can also split in smaller to help get it to burn. We sold out in September and the phone just keeps ringing. Good luck.
 
You are right to be concerned.Any wood over about a 4" round just does not dry without being split.Some species burn better green than others,Ash for instance.Oak generally likes at least a full year or more.

+1 yep. If you have no other choice do as Centaur suggested. I can remember having too "bake" the wood first in my cookstove before using it too help it along. After that year, I was never caught out short. :cheers:
 
You are right to be concerned.Any wood over about a 4" round just does not dry without being split.Some species burn better green than others,Ash for instance.Oak generally likes at least a full year or more.

The drying of wood simply takes time. Non-split rounds IMHO won't dry for years. Back when I was young:
WatogaPark1976.jpg


And lived in the sticks:
DCOldHouse.jpg

I tried to split my wood, stack it in the dry, & leave it there for 3 years before burning. Oak, hickory, beech & maple which is very well seasoned is every stove owners dream.:)

If you can't wait long to burn this wood have him split it small.
 
It may not dry out very well, but it will burn. It will keep you out of the cold, and, you prob won't find any seasoned anyway. It may not be the besty, but it will work.
 
i dont remember the exact numbers but wood looses most of its moisture (like 75%) through the endgrain. it wont be as dry as it could be, but the majority of the work will be done.

my old man stacked some rounds with the stacks running east/west. the wood lost enough moisture and shrank enough that the stack fell over to the south side. the south facing end of each peice was visibly checked and the north end wasnt.

but id say its dried for an ample amount of time. youll be fine.
 
I have to buy a few cords of wood because I ran out. I called a few places that I have used in the past and they are all sold out. One guy has seasoned wood that was cut 2 years ago but he splits it now based on orders. I don't think it would be ready to burn yet due to its just getting split now. I will be burning this is a wood stove insert.

here in Iowa I ran across a craigs ad list for a guy in ny north of the city that was selling cords delivered in an area for 60.00 min 2 cords.well I was disappointed when I found out where he was but called anyway. know it don't help you as I think it was the elmira area but the price was sure right.told him would take a couple semis and help with the fuel.but he was not able to. it was only 900 miles each way. a good 2 day job. oh well
 
I feel for you. I am supplying three houses (my cousin, my gf's and mine) with fire wood and ran short already, but I took a walk in the back of the ranch and found three 12-20" blue gum eucalyptus that had fallen in a storm a few years ago and they actually made a bit of dust when I split them; perfectly dry. I looked at local wood prices and they want an average of $225 for eucalyptus and $325 for red oak :jawdrop:. Maybe you can find a downed tree some where and arrange to remove it for them. I see a dead downer pine a mile from me that I might knock on their door to see if they will let me cut and remove it for them as a back up to my current supply. I don't like pine, but it burns.
 
i dont remember the exact numbers but wood looses most of its moisture (like 75%) through the endgrain. it wont be as dry as it could be, but the majority of the work will be done.

my old man stacked some rounds with the stacks running east/west. the wood lost enough moisture and shrank enough that the stack fell over to the south side. the south facing end of each peice was visibly checked and the north end wasnt.

but id say its dried for an ample amount of time. youll be fine.

You are right on with this one, the majority of moisture carries out the end grain. The wood that am burning right now in the shop here is some white oak that was split yesterday.Cut it over a year ago, stacked it in rounds and tarped it for the winter.Burns just great without a bit of sizzle to it.
Besides, if wood is that scarce, you might want to jump on it. Sounds better than freezing.
 
Some ideas to add on to what the others said.
If you're handy with a saw, have a snowmobile and snowshoes ( you must have a s$$tload of snow up your way! ), and have a woodlot that you can harvest, look for trees that can be burnt green. Standing dead ( NOT rotten) oaks, dead ( not punky ) softwoods such as spruce, most ashes--White, Green Brown---will burn just OK green, split easy. Get oak pallets for free from most big box stores: you break then up and burn; but be careful since they're too well dried. Mix all with the wetter/greener wood you bought.
Really: now is the time to think about next winter's firewood. We normally harvest in winter: hard ground, cooler, no bugs, snow to soften the bucking and skidding. Too much snow, like now, is a PITA, but workable.
 
Have a lot of red oak,white oak, ash, cherry, and walnut tops to clean up in a couple of woods. Anybody have a guestimate on how long these will last up off the ground before i start seeing to much rot?
 
You are right on with this one, the majority of moisture carries out the end grain. The wood that am burning right now in the shop here is some white oak that was split yesterday.Cut it over a year ago, stacked it in rounds and tarped it for the winter.Burns just great without a bit of sizzle to it.
Besides, if wood is that scarce, you might want to jump on it. Sounds better than freezing.

Sorry.This is wrong.Take a 20" round and stack it and I'll split it in four.We'll measure moisture content after a year and I'll prove it to you (if your wood isn't rotten)Splitting the wood exposes much more of the grain and enhances drying.

How wood dries: the mechanisms of moisture movement

Water in wood normally moves from zones of higher to zones of lower moisture content (Walker et al., 1993). In simple terms, this means that drying starts from the outside and moves towards the centre, and it also means that drying at the outside is also necessary to expel moisture from the inner zones of the wood. Wood, after a period of time, attains a moisture content in equilibrium with the surrounding air (the EMC, as mentioned earlier).

[edit] Mechanisms for moisture movement

[edit] Moisture passageways

The basic driving force for moisture movement is chemical potential. However, it is not always straightforward to relate chemical potential in wood to commonly observable variables, such as temperature and moisture content (Keey et al., 2000). Moisture in wood moves within the wood as liquid or vapour through several types of passageways depending on the nature of the driving force, (e.g. pressure or moisture gradient), and variations in wood structure (Langrish and Walker, 1993), as explained in the next section on driving forces for moisture movement. These pathways consist of cavities of the vessels, fibres, ray cells, pit chambers and their pit membrane openings, intercellular spaces and transitory cell wall passageways. Movement of water takes place in these passageways in any direction, longitudinally in the cells, as well as laterally from cell to cell until it reaches the lateral drying surfaces of the wood. The higher longitudinal permeability of sapwood of hardwood is generally caused by the presence of vessels. The lateral permeability and transverse flow is often very low in hardwoods. The vessels in hardwoods are sometimes blocked by the presence of tyloses and/or by secreting gums and resins in some other species, as mentioned earlier. The presence of gum veins, the formation of which is often a result of natural protective response of trees to injury, is commonly observed on the surface of sawn boards of most eucalypts. Despite the generally higher volume fraction of rays in hardwoods (typically 15% of wood volume), the rays are not particularly effective in radial flow, nor are the pits on the radial surfaces of fibres effective in tangential flow (Langrish and Walker, 1993).
 
The drying of wood simply takes time. Non-split rounds IMHO won't dry for years. Back when I was young:
WatogaPark1976.jpg


And lived in the sticks:
DCOldHouse.jpg

I tried to split my wood, stack it in the dry, & leave it there for 3 years before burning. Oak, hickory, beech & maple which is very well seasoned is every stove owners dream.:)

If you can't wait long to burn this wood have him split it small.

Did the guy who took this picture live? You look kinda pissed off.I like the pictures, 1960's?
 
So what your saying is I better make hay while the suns shining. I wish the 2 woods could have offset eachother. I've got a total of 120 tops. Will it be best to get it out and split and stack. I usually stack it on a large area that has a lot of gravel under it. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to get all I can get and keep it good. I do have a large old chicken coop that is in good shape. It has a good roof that will keep it dry. My only thoughts about storing inside is I don't want insects to damage building. Would powder post beatles be an issue?
 
Wood?

The only way I know to keep the bugs out is to split off the bark. When I have clean wood(no bark), I will sometimes chimney stack it in the garage or basement. All other wood stays under my lean-to.
 
Split and stack and it will be good for a long time.Cover, and it will be good for years.How long will that much wood last for you?Bring a years worth into your shed at a time and have it handy.Sounds like a first class problem,good luck.
 
This is actually the first year burning. I put in an OWB. I've been selling wood for quite a few years. So far this year i would guess I've burnt 5-6 cords. Will no what to plan for next year. I try to leave several pieces large but I asume this will take longer to season.
 
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