Selling a saw to a beginner

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I can't resist asking, what does drop starting mean on this forum?

At times I hold the top of the front/side handle lower the saw and pull up on the chord.

I do not do it but have seen on numerous occasions someone hold the rear handle and pretty much push the saw away while pulling on the chord.

Do both of these count as drop starting?
 
I am a safety conscious person but also a realist. There are many saws I have sold and owned that started on the first pull easily if drop started without the brake on in a controlled manner.

What aggravates me is to meet someone at a neutral spot (parking lot) to sell them a 60cc+ saw and they put it on the rock asphalt, lock the chain brake and gently pull it over slowly til it almost floods and they look up and say "it won't start".....

I roll my eyes, pick it up and start it in one or two pulls after unlocking the chain brake and their eyes get as big as saucers. I hold the top handle in my left hand and pull the starter in my right while up in the air and pointed a safe direction.

I have to sort of remind myself that not everyone is as stout as I am also.... I have spun wrenches all my life and been starting chainsaws for a long time also...and people say I am very strong.

I remind people that I have more control and speed as a drop start than on the ground with the possibility of the bar going into the dirt and scratching up the case of the saw as well.

Many people are idiots, look at who is voted into office at any position....

Tell them the right way to do something and tell them because you care about their safety. If they choose to do something wrong or unsafe, at least you told them first...
 
Regarding drop-starting a saw: I used to start saws like that too, but was then shown the "crotch-lock" method. To me, starting a saw on the ground is akward and time-consuming, but clamping it between my legs seems natural and is obviously safer. If someone who clearly knows what they're doing shows up and drop starts a saw, fine whatever. I guess that's my answer. It's my judgement whether I should demonstrate proper starting technique, and the other guys judgement whether or not to listen.
I tried that method once after reading about it and seeing it being used in videos here on AS - to me it feels completely wrong! :confused:

I tend to ground start for a first start where more then one pull is needed with choke and/or half throttle engaged - feels the most safe and controllable.
I do drop start for saw restarts when 1 pull is all the saw needs without choke or throttle.

The above stands for starting my saws with 20" bars , once the 36" comes in play ground starts are mandatory!
 
I would think a bigger liability would be selling modified saws. If something bad were to happen in this lawsuit happy culture one could make an argument that the seller is at fault.

For example is the chain brake able to handle the extra torque/hp of a ported saw? I know the chances are slim but if something happened and one lost their arm...

Oh my chainsaw cuts wood too fast. I better sue someone.
By the way, the frivolous 90's are over.
 
Interesting read -- always wondered what the concern was with drop starting. I learned about it watching someone else (a land clearing guy w/ tons of experience) about 15 years ago and thought -- boy that makes it easier to get the saw to fire strong and startup especially when cold.

So I always drop start when saw is cold w/o the brake so it can high idle w/o killing the clutch/bearings etc. and I'm always careful where the bar is when doing so -- never had a problem.
50cc and smaller saws -- no problem / no drop required. Still like the brake off so high idle can do so freely.

Ground starting is very awkward for me -- I'm tall and big guy and fearful I would be a disaster putting my foot on rear handle foot area and trying to bend over to pull and hold the saw by handle bar etc. all crouched down... yikes. I'm much more stable on my feet or even when down on one knee re-starting a saw when working on flush cutting a stump.

Once saws are warm and need just a small pull over to start I just start it w/o dropping or anything -- works like a champ.

I suppose I could do a crotch start -- but fearful of having the bar even closer to cherished areas when you can keep the saw some distance from you if you don't use your crotch :)
 
You sell a car? Did you critique the driver?? Seems simple enough to drive a car and even get a license but as soon as you get on the road you sure-the-eff know that there's lots of people that have got no business behind the wheel. Welcome to the club.

Now with that said there's lots of things in life that are dangerous including chainsaws. What do you want, Gubment intervention to keep people safe ? Ya'll make it sound like its some type of secret club and need to get voted in. All you need is a credit card and a hardware store now you're a sawyer..... well maybe not quite. All I'm saying is that you can't make people listen and you can't make people safe. Would I pass on helpful advise to an interested buyer, sure. Would I pull the sale? I don't know, it depends.
 
Last place I want a saw is near my crotch!
Anybody put an 090 between their legs? Not sure I want to see that either!
Chain brakes... they were designed to stop the chain during a kick-back, not starting, not walking around when clearing the brush.
Done correctly, drop start is easy and in some cases the only way to start a saw. Just because he didn't do what YOU would have doesn't make him right or you wrong.

Maybe he should have yelled "stand back".... they do that when the tree is falling, so you don't get hurt>>>> TIMBER!!!!!
I've seen thousands of trees come down... some guys run when it goes over, others just stand there and watch. Can't see where to run if your not watching, that is if you need to.

Drop start a 361... what is this world coming too, bunch of pansies!

I sold a saw once to a guy in a 3-piece suit, was a 361 actually, was going to clean up some brush with it. Right after I shook his hand I told his father (who was also there) to not let him cut his leg off. Charlie (old guy) is one of my good friends because of that sale and his son still owns the 361.

Everybody is a beginner once.
 
Starting between legs seems more dangerous then a drop start to me
remember-that-time-you-forgot-to-think-chainsaw.jpg
 
Last place I want a saw is near my crotch!
Anybody put an 090 between their legs? Not sure I want to see that either!
Chain brakes... they were designed to stop the chain during a kick-back, not starting, not walking around when clearing the brush.

I make it a point to engage the brake when I am walking with the saw if it's running. I had a close call a while back while cutting a blow down maple with a 372. After making a few cuts I stepped backwards to get away from some vines. I stepped into a hole and went down, the saw went underneath me and my left arm came down on top of the bar...luckily the chain wasn't spinning but one of the cutters still got me good and drew blood as the chain was still very sharp.
 
I suppose I could do a crotch start -- but fearful of having the bar even closer to cherished areas . . .
That's exactly the point - if you have the rear handle between your thighs, you know exactly where the bar and chain are. No way to swing around and hit something.

Chain brakes... they were designed to stop the chain during a kick-back, not starting, not walking around when clearing the brush.
Kickback is just one of the uses for a chain brake. You mention at least two others. Also good to 'lock' the chain while filing . . .

Philbert
 
I wouldn’t worry too much about it. If it is an ms361, he will never get it started. Must have been just like selling an old Jaguar. Sweet!!
 
I also see many people selling saws with cracked and broken handles advertised as "in good used shape". Or they say "it works just fine for me, so it'll work just fine for you.
When a seller leads a buyer to believe they are safe and then the buyer gets injured as a result of the handle coming apart then they can sue the seller.
 

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