Semi-skip chain angle

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
couple more ,im not sure if can eyeball angles or if there;s a way to actually measure these View attachment 289498View attachment 289499View attachment 289500
in pic 3 an off the roll chain is on the left ,one on right i seem to lose a lot of the cutter on my first grind,should i be getting closer to the off the roll top plate angle ?and can i get that angle dressing the wheel differently ?
 
Last edited:
That chain looks good. What grinder are you using???

As a general rule there is a Huge amount of adjusting the dressers, stone height, chain holder height. How far fore and aft the tooth contacts the stone .

You have a good grind right where your at. So any adjustments you do, do in small increments.
 
That chain looks good. What grinder are you using???

As a general rule there is a Huge amount of adjusting the dressers, stone height, chain holder height. How far fore and aft the tooth contacts the stone .

You have a good grind right where your at. So any adjustments you do, do in small increments.

grinder is silvey razur 2, the gullets and rakers aren't done yet in those pics,just first grind on an off the roll chain that i used some and outer tip got dull from some dirty wood ,is it faster with top of cutter across like stock ,i cant seem to get my grinder adjusted like that ? or kicked back some like i have it ? i think im about 22-25 or so degrees right now if i put in my round oregon grinder and turn the table so it lines the wheel up with my square chain ,i usually do my gullets with the round grinder after i sharpen on the silvey
 
How wore is your stone.?
Its been a long time since I had a R.S. II.
I can't remember how to adjust it for fore and aft.
Do u hold the tooth down with your finger or thumb when the cutter is feeding into the stone??

This would be a good? For MDL as he uses an RS II
 
How wore is your stone.?
Its been a long time since I had a R.S. II.
I can't remember how to adjust it for fore and aft.
Do u hold the tooth down with your finger or thumb when the cutter is feeding into the stone??

This would be a good? For MDL as he uses an RS II

stone is pretty fresh ,i used to hold the chain to the stone ,once i figured how to adjust the stops better i just pull the lever and the tooth actually floats into the corner of the stone on its own now ,no more having to hold it and i grind till it doesn't grind anymore ,i seem to get all my teeth more even this way

seems like the steeper i dress the top angle of the stone the tooth top angle changes some closer to factory grind ,i haven't messed too much changing dressing angles so not 100% on this
 
Thanks Tramp Busheller

O.k. full disclosure: I'm a residential arborist who only files square because I'm obsessed with my saws beating my friend's saws. :laugh::rock

Sir, thank you so much for all that you've just divulged about grinding square. I've just learned more about square bit than I've learned in the last ten years on my own. Man, you like em' hungry though. Is Sitka soft enough to tolerate those angles? When you get into Fir, do you grind em' less mean? Here in the Puget Sound area, we might get into Sitka once in a blue moon, but it's almost all Fir and Cottonpig. (If not little Alders)

And to the guy who posted the pics: thank you so much. Great shots and (I'd say) great angles. Your riders look a hair high though. Or had you not taken em' down yet? Oh yeah, and I'd also say that you might have to dress your stone again. The side plate angle looked just the tiniest bit round. Man, you gentlemen are making me jealous for a grinder though. If I weren't so cheap, I'da had one years ago.:msp_sleep:
 
That chain looks good. What grinder are you using???

As a general rule there is a Huge amount of adjusting the dressers, stone height, chain holder height. How far fore and aft the tooth contacts the stone .

You have a good grind right where your at. So any adjustments you do, do in small increments.

Just to add to add my own little trick when toying with dressers.....Before you move anything, use a pencil to mark where you're at.

It's saved me from myself a few times - Sam
 
Tramp Busheller: Hey, I forgot to ask you about just one more thing. What in the world ever gave you the slight "side beak" idea? Why do you like it? Did an old-timer tell you about it? Did you grind it like that one day by accident, and then realize that you liked it better etc? That, and I also wanted to ask you about your top plate thinning Idea. :confused2: Man, I did that a ton by accident when I was just learning to file square. I thought that it would cut faster, (It did, or sure seemed to) but it prematurely dulled the bits really badly. Do you experience this a little too, or have you just found a happy medium? Man, I'm all curiosity, and all ears? ....big chain-sharpening geek I guess.
 
Last edited:
O.k. full disclosure: I'm a residential arborist who only files square because I'm obsessed with my saws beating my friend's saws. :laugh::rock

Sir, thank you so much for all that you've just divulged about grinding square. I've just learned more about square bit than I've learned in the last ten years on my own. Man, you like em' hungry though. Is Sitka soft enough to tolerate those angles? When you get into Fir, do you grind em' less mean? Here in the Puget Sound area, we might get into Sitka once in a blue moon, but it's almost all Fir and Cottonpig. (If not little Alders)

And to the guy who posted the pics: thank you so much. Great shots and (I'd say) great angles. Your riders look a hair high though. Or had you not taken em' down yet? Oh yeah, and I'd also say that you might have to dress your stone again. The side plate angle looked just the tiniest bit round. Man, you gentlemen are making me jealous for a grinder though. If I weren't so cheap, I'da had one years ago.:msp_sleep:

that was just ground on the silvey,rakers weren't done yet ,next i throw it on the round grinder and do the gullets ,on a pretty new chain it gets 2 swipes on the rakers with a file normally ,heres an older pic i found after gullets cut ,im semi green on grinding so use my gray stone ,its pretty soft ,i normally have to dress it 1- 2 times each side of the chain ,if i see any black oil build up ,it gets a dress also

View attachment 289547
 
stone is pretty fresh ,i used to hold the chain to the stone ,once i figured how to adjust the stops better i just pull the lever and the tooth actually floats into the corner of the stone on its own now ,no more having to hold it and i grind till it doesn't grind anymore ,i seem to get all my teeth more even this way

seems like the steeper i dress the top angle of the stone the tooth top angle changes some closer to factory grind ,i haven't messed too much changing dressing angles so not 100% on this

I believe it is impossible to match the factory angles because the cutters angles are set before the chain is assembled.
 
You can get better angles than factory easily. Don't worry about nicking the tie straps. I've never broken a chain even on a 3120 when I've nicked the tie straps. A little side beak is way better than too high.

Trx I think you're fine on the angles. I run more aggressive than most for hardwood. I'm not at home right now to get more pictures but I'm almost at a 30 degree top plate. Side angle is about 5 degrees. Rakers for me never go below .030" as in hardwoods it's too much for a 70cc saw.

Roberte I'm glad the chain is working for you.

I love testing different things out on chain. I like it more than porting the saws. I'll look and see if I have any more pictures to post for you guys.
 
250 or 180: Thaks very much. I've got a ton to learn about grinding. Thinking of taking it on this summer... o.k. maybe fall... fall/winter.

C faller: Yeah, couldn't agree more. It's my belief that Oregon uses one "stone" (for lack of a better word) for the side and another for the top. At the very least, I can tell you that their factory angles certainly don't match the angles that the triangle or double-bev would produce. Seems to me that Oregon's grind is too steep on the top-plate while being too acute on the side plate. Then again, who cares since the factory grind sux? :taped:
 
NorthMan ; I prefer to start with pre round ground chain. Saves doing gullets as often. If I'm grinding that is.

The two chains in question where about half worn, only started running chisel since I got the new saw... too cheap to go out and buy more chains so I just forgot to grab my round file...

I think (not sure) that chisel chains are cheaper by like a dollar at the local saw shop...
 
Northman: Yeah, funny thing that Busheler said also: I've always preferred "converting" round to square--less side material to have to hog-out. :rolleyes2:
 
Oregon and Stihl cutters brand new.

IMG_20130330_192347_599_zps897e0e82.jpg


Converted cutter

IMG_20130404_193630_753_zps420a86e0.jpg


New Stihl cutter

IMG_20130330_192000_679_zps86dca367.jpg
 
Back
Top