All good, just thought maybe I could test something and maybe be of interest to everyone to see comparisons. If the concensus is that it probably won’t show much with what I have available then of course there isn’t any real point. I
Lots of good tests out there using the progression gauge with random teeth lengths as well long-equal-teeth on one side VS short-equall-teeth on the other. Problems will show up more on long bars with more bar in the wood with random lengths on each side. It's not a hand full of short teeth or having a chain with an extra tooth on one side that causes noticeable problems to me.
It's been a hand full of long teeth that miss being damaged on chain throws. Explanation: So if i just sharpened and then get a chain throw then i'd just file the teeth that where damaged. It's common to dust your chain on one side only. Again..I deal with what needs sharpening in these cases. Typically that is the bottom side by design of saw use that gets hit when 'brushing out' saplings and/or brush.
Depending..but I often end up with a hand full of cutters with little wear on the left (inside) and perhaps both sides when a lot of the chain is nearing the halfway-range. Now you are left with a hand full of cutters to clean up the narrower kerf wall on that side. You may start to feel/hear a slight grab and release and rev change with felling dogs set in as the dogs are making it go straight so it will disrupt the section that wants to 'turn'.
Early signs described above that you my notice in 2ft tree with a 3ft bar. Now stick it in wood that's bar size and over. It's going to bind and stop dead before long, in conjunction with the dogs.
Perhaps it is an easy fix by shortening the longest of teeth down but it won't fix by sharpening all the teeth again and setting the depth gauges. That just happens to be the time when I start to get more chain throws due to driver wear, it has no worth to me. I just put on another good chain that's ready to go and sometimes need to finish felling the tree. It's hard to get past the area were it got stuck, even without the dogs.
I'ts more likely to do with the 'set' than with the chain not working due to less degree in angle between the leading edge and raker,,which can't be fully maintained with the progressive gauge.
Iv'e heard of a Stihl rep doing a demo with P/G with one side half-filed on new chain and it was said to cut straight.
Now working in the Uk with clean small hardwood with 18" bars, you never get a chain throw or even chain derail as with bigger bars/saws
All the teeth stay close together and cut to the end without signs of issue with the P/G.
Experience is going to be different in other parts as so will your approach. Other people may take a different approach than I do in the same area but my way gets me up and running fast.
Many people cut in wood they have to sharpen every tank. I cut in lots of softwood that I could sharpen once in 6-8 litres if you didn't hit sand in the moss or have a chain throw before that.
I always ran a fast chain speed with lots of brushing and limbing so the chain sees a lot of revolutions at half a chain. Stihl was more durable than Oregon all around but harder to file in heavy rain.
