Sharpening Questions

[sjpaq]

Hello, I have a Stihl MS170 and a Husq 445. I need / want to start sharpening my own chains. When I was a teenager (now 60), my father had a pioneer of some sort and a jig he used to sharpen his chains. The jig sat on the chain and provided a support for a round file to sharpen the chain. It had a physical guide for a round file that provided the correct angle to run the file across. The jig also had a spot for a flat file to bring down the rakers. My father would bring down the rakers each time he sharpened.

1. Where can I get such a jig?
2. What size round file do I need for my MS170?
3. What size round file do I need for my Husq 445?
4. Any hints for sharpening?

Thank you in advance.

 

[ammoaddict]

The quickest and easiest jig for me is the Pferd 2 in 1. It files the cutters and the depth guages at the same time. Your 445 should be .325 chain and use 3/16 files. Your 170 I'm guessing is 3/8 lp chain and uses a 5/32 file.

 

[SteveSr]

The quickest and easiest jig for me is the Pferd 2 in 1. It files the cutters and the depth guages at the same time. Your 445 should be .325 chain and use 3/16 files. Your 170 I'm guessing is 3/8 lp chain and uses a 5/32 file.

Need to check. The 170 comes with .043" gauge PiccoMicro which may or may not be the same kit as the straight Picco (3/8" LP). Confused yet?

 

[Woody912]

Hello, I have a Stihl MS170 and a Husq 445. I need / want to start sharpening my own chains. When I was a teenager (now 60), my father had a pioneer of some sort and a jig he used to sharpen his chains. The jig sat on the chain and provided a support for a round file to sharpen the chain. It had a physical guide for a round file that provided the correct angle to run the file across. The jig also had a spot for a flat file to bring down the rakers. My father would bring down the rakers each time he sharpened.

1. Where can I get such a jig?
2. What size round file do I need for my MS170?
3. What size round file do I need for my Husq 445?
4. Any hints for

I use a Granberg file and joint I got from Bailey's, maybe not the best but it works fine for me

 

[Okie]

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/sharpening-necessary-or-just-picky.370344/

 

[Lawless]

Hello, I have a Stihl MS170 and a Husq 445. I need / want to start sharpening my own chains. When I was a teenager (now 60), my father had a pioneer of some sort and a jig he used to sharpen his chains. The jig sat on the chain and provided a support for a round file to sharpen the chain. It had a physical guide for a round file that provided the correct angle to run the file across. The jig also had a spot for a flat file to bring down the rakers. My father would bring down the rakers each time he sharpened.

1. Where can I get such a jig?
2. What size round file do I need for my MS170?
3. What size round file do I need for my Husq 445?
4. Any hints for sharpening?

Thank you in advance.

Sounds like you are describing a similar tool to this one, the Timberline.

https://timberlinesharpener.com/

 

[sjpaq]

Thanks for the replies so far. Ammoaddict suggested the husqy 445 (.325 chain) should use a 3/16 file. I went through the files in my shop and found a 15/64 which appears to fit the husqy .325 chain. Can anybody confirm this?

 

[Patrick62]

15/32 is a bit big for .325
3/16, and then drop to a 11/64 when the cutter is shorter.
Jeez, regular 3/8 chain uses a 7/32 file!

I had those "jig"s. they worked but were fiddly to setup. I went to grinders of various forms soon.
But learned how to (more or less) hand file a chain to where it would cut reasonably well.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Many years ago, I had a Ganim (sic) which Timberline is a modern copy of and gave it away to a friend about a year ago. They work ok but you still have to flat file the depth gages. I prefer grinding chains myself with CBN wheels. Have 2 Oregon (Tecomec) chain grinders. One for setting the cutters, the other for setting the depth gages.

 

[irhunter]

For those new to sharpening chain, I suggest: (1) learning to sharpen with the bar clamped in a bench vise (with the powerhead still attached), and (2) the Oregon-style file guide.

Eventually, you may grow out of these two suggestions, but...

For multi-chain-size users:

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Chain...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
Last: the correct file size is listed on the box the chain came in. Not a bad idea, for occassional users, to save their boxes.

Roy

 

[irhunter]

And, as far as how to do it...Oregon has a nice video:

https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p...chainsaw-chain-/c/sharpening-chainsaw-chain-s

 

[NSEric]

I bought these for the files and handles but the guides on them work well too.
https://www.amazon.ca/Cataumet-Chai...refix=chain+saharpner+camalau,aps,715&sr=8-90

 

[Philbert]

Sounds like a Granberg?

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Philbert

 

[holeycow]

I know some of yous don't like buckin billy ray, but he does an excellent job of teaching freehand sharpening in some of his videos. I honestly don't know what all the confusion is about, as it's a pretty simple task freehand, no guide, no vice, no anything other than a couple of files and a one tooth raker gauge (occasionally). If you're careful you can touch-up a chain even with the wrong size file although that's not ideal.

I advise to get away from the crutches and learn to use a file.

I'm not expert at freehand filing, yet my chains are almost always smooth and draw themselves into the cut throwing chips. Anything attached to the file just messes me up and frustrates me. I can do a much better job without those guide contraptions.

So can you..

 

[Philbert]

Different strokes for different folks.

Everyone has to find something that works for them.

Philbert

 

[nedsim]

For those new to sharpening chain, I suggest: (1) learning to sharpen with the bar clamped in a bench vise (with the powerhead still attached), and (2) the Oregon-style file guide.

There's no shame in using a guide and, in my opinion, the Oregon is "as simple as possible, but no simpler." I've been doing exactly this for as long as I can remember -- bar in a vise and Oregon guide.

 

[Pioneer]

Was it like this one? Has the advantage of adjustable depth setting for rakers.

 

[chainbrake]

Was it like this one? Has the advantage of adjustable depth setting for rakers.

View attachment 1127365View attachment 1127366

I have a similar one that I still use for the rakers. Got it in the '70s.

 

[chainbrake]

I have sharpening questions after the story.

I have rocked 3 chains in 5 days!
*One of them was from a piece of rock that grew into a tree at the stump. The tree was 80 years old, and had been on what was once farmland/pastureland and a maple syrup grove. I'll never know how that piece of granite got into that tree.

*Two of chains that became dull were definitely my fault. I'm switching back and forth, using 16" and 20" bars in 3 different saws, and I have not been paying close enough attention to my tip when bucking and limbing on rough terrain. Both times it has happened after switching from the small slower saw I use for limbing to the bigger 400 that I have been using for felling, bucking and sometimes limbing (when the 170 is out of fuel and I don't want to fuel it up again for the day - getting little dull- whatever). The 400 with a 20" bar is an aggressive saw, and it is still a little new for me. It almost always surprises me as to how fast it goes through some logs/branches. I love using it as much as I can love anything that rips through beautiful forest habitat.

So, I sharpened 1/8th inch off of one chain - wearing through 1.5 files and causing arthritis to swell up in my thumb for 3 days. I hit the second rock (the one in the tree) and just switched out to my backup chain. Yesterday, I hit the 3rd rock and I am getting tired of filing!

Now the questions:
Does anyone use the diamond studded 7/32 bits that I see online for sharpeners/Dremels?
Does anyone use them in a drill?
If anyone is using them with good results, I would like to know what brand to buy so that I get good value for my dollar. I have an Amazon account.

I was a machinist before I became a carpenter/builder/firewood guy. I am very good at cutting wood and metal, holding drills true and straight. I admit that I have a drill acquisition disorder similar to how many people ArboristSite have C.A.D. If other people are using drills with good results, I am sure that I can do it too. I can had file a saw so that it cuts really nicely.

I don't want to get a saw sharpener (like the Oregon type - or whatever), because I don't have room for it till I complete setting up my new shop. I won't do that till I finish building a couple of houses that i am just starting on... and there is always next year's firewood to get.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Stihlproincky]

I second the 2in1, learn how to hand file cause when your in the field there ain't no plug for a grinder. As far as other jigs I dunno. Get ya 2-3 extra chains too. My 170 takes 3/8p chains so 5/32" files the trick.