sharping stump teeth

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lawmart

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This may sound odd to you guys but, i have never heard of people sharping stump teeth before i came on this site. We have always just put in new teeth when they are dull, is there a point of no return when it can't be sharpened. Who nows i might reach that point all the time.

And is the time and effort involved in sharping the tooth worth it or is it just as easy to put a new tooth on, and you to are good to go.
Can some one take a picture of a dull tooth before they sharpen it and then a picture of it after it is sharpened .

Tomorrow i have to change 22 teeth on my sanvick wheel, dam "T" rails in the stump, the teeth just shattered when i hit it. with green teeth that would not of happened.

Lawmart
play safe
 
i shrpen mine on a drill doctor.

i cannot seem to find a diamond wheel any other way.i like greenteeth but seemed like we were always replacing them.
 
I usually get one sharpen them re-tip the teeth using an oxy and silver solder.
 
Same here. have found that sharpening teeth is a very boring process not to mention the dust!. They never also seem to hold the edge long enough to be of use. I have however over the last couple of months been re-tipping mine also with new tips/silver solder. Been a bit of trial and error but its paid off. I have had to put a little bit of weld on the shank to stop the shank wearing out hence giving it a longer life. Happy to share any knowledge.
 
Sharpening Stump teeth

This may sound odd to you guys but, i have never heard of people sharping stump teeth before i came on this site. We have always just put in new teeth when they are dull, is there a point of no return when it can't be sharpened. Who nows i might reach that point all the time.

And is the time and effort involved in sharping the tooth worth it or is it just as easy to put a new tooth on, and you to are good to go.
Can some one take a picture of a dull tooth before they sharpen it and then a picture of it after it is sharpened .

Tomorrow i have to change 22 teeth on my sanvick wheel, dam "T" rails in the stump, the teeth just shattered when i hit it. with green teeth that would not of happened.

Lawmart
play safe

When sharpening stump teeth you can set up a bench top grinder that has two wheels on it. One grey wheel (course) one green wheel.
1 On the grey wheel remove the steel under the carbide. It is a bit of a trick but with a steady hand you can relieve the steel this way. Dont put to much angle on it though.

2. On the Green wheel (silicia carbide) you can grind the carbide tip now with out clogging the wheel with steel. Make sure you put a slight relief angle on it.

I will try to post some pics in the next few days

If you want to retip your sanvik teeth please contact me. It is inexpensive and will work just as well.
 
Last edited:
Detmott,

What do you charge to re-tip Sandvik teeth?? Are you using the same size carbide? Maybe this is the way I should go!

The Sandvik carbide seems to last well. They claim it is a harder grade, it is certainly thicker. Do you use their tips??

Thanks!
 
Have always sharpened them.Very easy and I just pop a couple cold ones and go to town.I can do about 35-40 in an hour.Its messy but i do it out side and wear a apron and goggles.If im goin to sharpen i will sharpen atleast 2 or three sets that way i have one set sharp all the time.As much as they use the machines we would be broke if we had new teeth every time.Usually dull them bout every three days(Even when we buy new)due to High Volume.

I use the bench grinder with they grey and green wheels.
 
Sandvik Retips

Detmott,

What do you charge to re-tip Sandvik teeth?? Are you using the same size carbide? Maybe this is the way I should go!

The Sandvik carbide seems to last well. They claim it is a harder grade, it is certainly thicker. Do you use their tips??

Thanks!

$6.75 each
We use a carbide that is 2/3 as thick and comes from a trenching tooth. Same shape as Sandvik though. Holds up just like the original tip. To hold the tip on we use a tough high strength braze. Couldn't tell ya why Sandvik used thicker carbide. We have a company using retips on their Hurricane with no problems.

Contact me and I will send some teeth for you to put on.
 
On sharpening the teeth,,,do you sharpen the OUTER edge or do you sharpen the flat(TOP) surface........or both?
 
Sharpening teeth

On sharpening the teeth,,,do you sharpen the OUTER edge or do you sharpen the flat(TOP) surface........or both?

Good question!!

This is hard one to answer, so here is what I think:

1. The top should be sharpened only but it would take to long to long to bring to a cutting edge and it would reduce the number of sharpenings, but it would leave the base (seat) so that it could easily be re-tipped.

2. Here is what I would do, sharpen the carbide form the end and the top, just like a saw tooth is done. To get a truly sharp saw we sharpen both the face and top, in that order. this is what I would do.

Keep in mind we do not sharpen any teeth, that can be done more economically by the operator in the field, we only recondition and re-tip here at the shop.

One thing that I have noticed from operators coming into the shop is that they will get a negative rake on their teeth and not know it. This is corrected by keeping the tooth above the center line of the grinding wheel.

Remember carbide is brittle and needs to be supported. So only keep a shallow positive angle on the cutting edge. The more clearance angle you have on it the weaker it is. Typically the angle is only about 3-5 degrees positive angle.

Hope this answers your question.
 
$6.75 each
We use a carbide that is 2/3 as thick and comes from a trenching tooth. Same shape as Sandvik though. Holds up just like the original tip. To hold the tip on we use a tough high strength braze. Couldn't tell ya why Sandvik used thicker carbide. We have a company using retips on their Hurricane with no problems.

Contact me and I will send some teeth for you to put on.

I use the vemeer teeth,,, $6.16 ,,, each..... really doesn't make sense to have them shipped out,, after the shanks are worn down,,,, to be re tipped...as far as sharpening them,,, why bother,, you can't get an even cut on a grinder tooth by hand grinder...

what do you do after replaceing a broken tooth ???? grind it down by eye to match the other teeth on the wheel !!
 
I'm using Vermeer teeth also. New machine, & probably about ready to change/sharpen for the first time.

Got a local guy that sharpens for $1.50 each, so I'm told. Don't know if he re-tips or not.

I know that I've got a couple chipped teeth that probably need re-tipping.

More economical to do it myself?? Ship them off to be re-tipped, or just buy them locally?? The local dealer sells teeth for about $7.00 each.
 
Re-tipping is really cost effective. Just dont bully the steel shank too much. It's cost me about 300.00 to set up. Buying all the brazing equipment and my first oxy acetelyn bottles. Looking at the guages I have worked out I could do in excess of a thousand tips on the bottles before re-filling at about £50.00 to refill them both. Tips costing about £1.30. So effectivly I have brand new teeth for about £1.40 ish each and every time. Is that a saving or what. Granted it does take a bit of a learning curve to braze them. I have no welding experience at all. Picked up all I now off the internet and just did it. I have learned along the way. The good thing is You dont really loose any tips over your mistakes. Brazings easy. The leaning curve just makes it faster and neater. I thought about re-tipping for the last 3 years and im glad i have now taken the plunge.
 
Also the one thing i have learned. How ever much you re-tip you cant stop the shanks from wearing. I'm now buying welding rods and dropping a little bit of weld onto the areas of the tooth that wears. It easy just to re weld it when it gets low. When you think you can buy a tip for £1.39 why does a pcs of steel cost so much?
 
stevie, fancy retipping some of mine?

i have probably 40 to sharpen/retip or throw...

the thought of saving 4-5 quid per tooth sounds good to me...
 
Thanks Steve.
I've already got a torch for cutting. Never tried brazing, tho', but I'll give it a try.
 
Thanks Steve.
I've already got a torch for cutting. Never tried brazing, tho', but I'll give it a try.

Yes you just need to change your torch and your up and running. Let me know if you want a couple of tips happy to send so you can have a play.
 

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