Shocked and slightly amazed

[biggenius29]

I got a call the other day from a guy asking me to look at a saw for him that is leaking bar oil really really bad out of the bottom of his saw. It was a 024.

I get it on the bench and the first thing I notice is the recoil. 4 screws, not a single one the same, one was the right screw holding the chainbreak leaver on, another was a Allen, no big deal, same thread, just not Torx. Another one was a motor mount screw, I have no idea how the guy who cobbled this saw togeather was able to get a screw that big in. The 4th was a really really small screw with teflon tape wrapped around to make it fit WTF?????

I couldnt believe it, I have seen alot of rigging in my life, but nothing quite like that.

I get the saw stripped down and I found the reason for the oil leak. The guy put a really long screw in for the bottom handle bar mount, and needless to say, that long screw ate into the case after a few hours of use. It couldnt have been in a worst spot, it is right were the 2 halves meet.

What do you guys think, if I clean it up really really really good is it something JB weld will fix? Or should I not waist my time?
Looks like I am going to get a few more saws on my bench. This guy bought 2 other saws from the guy who put this 024 together, and he wants me to go over them for him before they get run much more. A 044 and a 066.

 

[chopperfreak2k1]

i don't know man, right where the case halves go together? sounds like a no win situation to me, but what do i know:monkey:

 

[Saw Dr.]

the 024 isn't worth much as scrap, so you might as well try and fix it. Just tell the guy up front that it may not work out. Quote him a price for replacing the cases with new, and he'll be happy to have you try the JB patch.

 

[tmessenger]

I think if you clean it up really well (get all of the oil out of the casting) sand it with 80 grit and JB an aluminum patch on it about the size of a dime it would hold fine. Sand the patch really well too so it has a good tooth for the JB.

 

[hamish]

been there and repaired em. Drain all the bar oil out of the tank and rinse/flush repeatively with vinegar. Remove anything that will be in your way and then set the saw upside down for a few days. Clean and dose the outside of the case with vinegar, get a heat gunand heat the area and clean with vinegar yet again (you are using the heat and vinegar to get any oil residue out of the pores is the mag case, so that you have good adhesion with your jb weld. Repeat the heating and cleaning process several times. Grab popsicle sticks or whatever and make something to act as a containment for the jb weld inside the tank (so it has a base to set against). Mix your jb and apply it, let set and then remove your inner overflow patch and let it cure for at least 24hrs. Use regular JB Weld not the Kwick-JB.

Have seen the smae thing happen on alot of Huskys..............5 screws hold on the handle two screws are short three are long..........the long ones go on the side of the handle not the bottom!

 

[biggenius29]

the 024 isn't worth much as scrap, so you might as well try and fix it. Just tell the guy up front that it may not work out. Quote him a price for replacing the cases with new, and he'll be happy to have you try the JB patch.

Just curious what a scrap 024 is worth, or what are you paying for them?

I did mention doing a partial trade, I have a 026 that I need a few parts for that I could pilage off his saw.

I am able to get a complete aftermarket case for a bill. But a bill for a case, then the whole disasembly, then the whole assembly, it wont take long at all to have two bills put into parts and labor.

 

[spike60]

I've done this JB repair a few times myself, and it works. Never heard of the vinegar idea; I'm going to try that next time.

Those screw jamming cobb artists drive me nuts. "That's all I could find." Yeah, well now that you botched it up just get yourself the next size up from your sheet metal screw assortmant and run that one a while.

 

[biggenius29]

I've done this JB repair a few times myself, and it works. Never heard of the vinegar idea; I'm going to try that next time.

Those screw jamming cobb artists drive me nuts. "That's all I could find." Yeah, well now that you botched it up just get yourself the next size up from your sheet metal screw assortmant and run that one a while.

Yea, you hit the nail on the head.

This guy does alot of fixxing and selling saws in my area, and it is sad. He does sell saws for pretty good prices, and the people I know who bought saws from him are people who dont have alot of money to spend on a saw. So they think they are getting a good deal on something. Little do they know.

I hope this is a freak deal and not his MO, but I have my doubts. I mean seriously, how much does a few extra screws cost.

But, then again, when it comes to my stuff I am a perfectionest.

At least when I sell something I can sleep at night and sell my stuff with nothing to hide.

 

[Saw Dr.]

I just use carb cleaner to get the oil out of the pores.

 

[WVshooter]

My 024 leaked oil where the halves met on the front side and I didn't want to drop that much in the saw, either. I cleaned her up and added a nice amount of JB Weld on the front over the seam and VOILA! no oil leak. Seems to be holding up nicely for a couple years now. FWIW mine has the right screws..........

 

[Qsky]

Brakleen works the best for getting rid of oil, grease and dirt...Vinegar???never heard of that treatment.It may etch the alumnium slightly allowing the JB to adhere a bit better,but roughing it up with sandpaper would do the same thing.

 

[FELLNORTH]

I FIXED A LEAK IN MY FRIEND JOHNY 2054, EMPTY ALL OIL, SIT THE SAW UPSIDE DOWN FOR A COUPLE OF DAY ( SO ALL THE OIL IS AWAY FROM THE HOLE, GRIND THE AREA WITH 60 GRIT PAPER, WASH WITH CARB CLEANER AND HERE IS THE SECRET, BURN IT REPEADEDLY WITH A PROPANE TORCH TO BURN ALL THE OIL OUT OF THE CASTINGS. THE USE SOME JB WATERWELD TO REPAIR THE HOLE. WHEN DRY GRIND/SAND/PROFILE TILL PRETTY AND PAINT. THE PATCH I MADE HAS LASTER 3 YEARS.
GOOD LUCK

 

[biggenius29]

I will still Jb the case but I am worried that oil will still seep past the gasket.

 

[chopperfreak2k1]

maybe i'm not understanding this right, but if you JB weld over where the cases meet won't that present a problem if you ever have to pull the cases apart in the future?

 

[FELLNORTH]

maybe i'm not understanding this right, but if you jb weld over where the cases meet won't that present a problem if you ever have to pull the cases apart in the future?

it sure will, but imo you burn that bridge when you get there!!!

 

[Timberton]

I Agree With the Farmer Fix Ideas.

Yeah, sounds like it just needs a cheap repair; and lots of good ideas as to how to do this! No knock on JB Weld fans at all, (I just don't have any experience with it); but I've had fantastic success with a product called Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty. Absolutely amazing what this stuff can do! I'd simply wash the case with a rag, water and a bit of Dawn dishwashing soap, dry it and then scuff it up with some course sandpaper or give it a quick touch with the wire wheel. This will give the Marine-Tex a better surface to "grip". Mix according to instructions, apply and in 24-hours that leak will be sealed.

Yeah, I bet JB Weld or Marine-Tex will fix this.

 

[rmihalek]

Not trying to bust your chops Hamish, but I don't see vinegar ( an aqueous 5% acetic acid solution) as being effective at removing oil ( or any other organic residue). Remembering the old adage, "like dissolves like" you'd want to use an organic solvent like acetone, brake cleaner or even gasoline to remove traces of bar oil from the area.

A detergent also would work. They work at solubilizing oils in water because a detergent molecule has polar (aqueous-favoring) and non-polar (oil-favoring) components in the same molecule. The oil molecules will get surrounded by the non-polar ends of the detergent molecules. This leaves the polar ends of the detergent molecules exposed on the surface to interact favorably with water.

been there and repaired em. Drain all the bar oil out of the tank and rinse/flush repeatively with vinegar. Remove anything that will be in your way and then set the saw upside down for a few days. Clean and dose the outside of the case with vinegar, get a heat gunand heat the area and clean with vinegar yet again (you are using the heat and vinegar to get any oil residue out of the pores is the mag case, so that you have good adhesion with your jb weld. Repeat the heating and cleaning process several times. Grab popsicle sticks or whatever and make something to act as a containment for the jb weld inside the tank (so it has a base to set against). Mix your jb and apply it, let set and then remove your inner overflow patch and let it cure for at least 24hrs. Use regular JB Weld not the Kwick-JB.

Have seen the smae thing happen on alot of Huskys..............5 screws hold on the handle two screws are short three are long..........the long ones go on the side of the handle not the bottom!

 

[hamish]

Not trying to bust your chops Hamish, but I don't see vinegar ( an aqueous 5% acetic acid solution) as being effective at removing oil ( or any other organic residue). Remembering the old adage, "like dissolves like" you'd want to use an organic solvent like acetone, brake cleaner or even gasoline to remove traces of bar oil from the area.

A detergent also would work. They work at solubilizing oils in water because a detergent molecule has polar (aqueous-favoring) and non-polar (oil-favoring) components in the same molecule. The oil molecules will get surrounded by the non-polar ends of the detergent molecules. This leaves the polar ends of the detergent molecules exposed on the surface to interact favorably with water.

Ho problem at all, i'm not a chemist or rocket scientist, i just fix saws. I had found that acetone softens the paint of the surrounding areas, brake cleaner, carb cleaner and gasoline are all flamable, so when applying heat I avoid them............besides a gallon of pure white vinegar (10% acetic up north here, not like it makes a difference) is about $4, carb cleaner/brake clean is $9 a aresol can (I'm not cheap but save the $$$ stuff for when its needed). And likewise with detergent, all I have around the house or the shop is powdered laundry detergent.......and the minister of laundry might suspect something if she sees my paw prints on the box.

 

[JustinM]

...I get the saw stripped down and I found the reason for the oil leak...

Once i read the mismatched screw part, I didnt even have to go further ha.


I cant believe how cobbled together some saws are - although I must admit: a screw with electrical tape to "thicken it & make it fit" is a new one, even for me.

 

[SawTroll]

I've done this JB repair a few times myself, and it works. Never heard of the vinegar idea; I'm going to try that next time.

Those screw jamming cobb artists drive me nuts. "That's all I could find." Yeah, well now that you botched it up just get yourself the next size up from your sheet metal screw assortmant and run that one a while.

LOL - you hit the nail regarding those "artists"!

I wonder how pure that vinegar has to be - 35% is the most we get here?