slowing down hydraulics

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bushmaster

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what are the options to slow down a log lift?

i know you can get a flow control valve for about a $100
is there other ways?
its a seperate control valve
 
Buy a adapter fitting that has a small hole in it, or braze or weld up a fitting on the extend side and drill a small hole in it.
 
Buy a adapter fitting that has a small hole in it, or braze or weld up a fitting on the extend side and drill a small hole in it.

do not braze something in there, it can break off, easiest way is to take a hydraulic fitting that is restricted IE a NPT to O ring fitting and tap the inside of it so you can screw a bolt or piece of all thread into it, cut flush and drill a 1/16" hole through the bolt, it will flow about a gallon a minute and make a 2" cylinder move about a inch a second
 
took a 3/8 bolt ground off the corners of head so it was round, drilled 3/32 hole thru bolt a mig welded it into hose end
made it much more manageable but still pretty quick if you open valve all the way
 
This is a little trickier than just putting a restrictor on the work port line....
First of all, a constant flow is a constant flow PERIOD!!....and what a RESTRICTOR will do is INCREASE the PRESSURE.....to make work port flow decrease, part of pump flow need to be DIVERTED.....PERIOD!!
If you do not "feather" or "fine meter" your control valve, the is pressure relief valve will have to be the "diverting gate".....
And if the pressure relief valve diverting, the pressure is already at max, and your two stage pump have "geared" down to low stage....
So if your are happy with a setup that converts 90% of power into heat and the rest into lifting the log......yea then you can use a restrictor on the work port line....

I would instead make an arrangement that limits the spool travel in the log lift valve....that way you cant, by accident, over speed the log lift...
My picture is used for another forum, float spool, but it still shows what I mean...
spool_limiter.jpg
 
do not braze something in there, it can break off, easiest way is to take a hydraulic fitting that is restricted IE a NPT to O ring fitting and tap the inside of it so you can screw a bolt or piece of all thread into it, cut flush and drill a 1/16" hole through the bolt, it will flow about a gallon a minute and make a 2" cylinder move about a inch a second

Or just go down and buy a ready made one. I was working in a ag implement manufacturing shop. We used a lot of hydraulic and generally '5 finder discounted' fittign we needed. Whey I built my homebuilt splitter it would just barely creep. The light dawned and I checked. Yep, I had a couple 'restrictor' fittings instead of the regular ones.

Harry K
 
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